Recently I realized that I’ve been good, so I awarded myself with an underwater flashlight!
I was looking for such light for a long time, since I need to visit my lake in the night hours to see what kind of life can be found prowling about. It is a well-known fact that sea life during the night differs a lot from the daylight scene. I’d like to see if that also holds true for the lake.
When you go looking for something as simple as an underwater flashlight, your first realize that the sheer size of choice is stunning. So I searched among literally hundreds of similar models, browsing many sites and reading all the characteristics, all the while comparing the prices with performance. Internet is grand, but can also be tiring.
The model I finally picked combined all the factors that are relevant, at least to me: solid waterproofing, strong light output, ability to withstand rough handling, power cell options and availability, simplicity in design and usage, and of course, the price.
My choice?
What I finally decided upon is the CREE T02 XML LED Flashlight – L2 5000K 1000Lm that I have acquired from. It is (supposed to be, but not tested yet) waterproof down to 100 meters, or 328 feet. It cost me $11.66 with no add-ons, and that includes free shipping.
From my point of view, I have made a good deal.
Here is where I found it, and I’m going to show you how it’s made in a moment. Let me just point out that I was looking for a searching light, as opposed to photo or video lighting. The difference is in the wideness of the lightcone the lamp can emit. For photo and video recording purposes it would have to cover the camera’s entire field of view, and this torch doesn’t manage that.
Still, it can be good for macro and close-up work, or used with another lighting as a spotlight.
Design & Quality
The torch appears well-made. It is designed in black anodized aluminum, and has a simple, tubular shape. The diameter widens somewhat around the smooth silver reflector part, and tapers slightly at the back end. The middle and the front or the body is smooth, excepting for some sunken points around the reflector which I suppose are there more for aesthetic reasons than, say, for surface enlargement meant to optimize the lamp cooling. There is some crisscross texture in two places, to ease the opening of torch for servicing.
The torch is 13.6 centimeters long (5.35 inches), 3.35 cm of its body diameter (1.31 inches), and 3.66 cm diameter of the reflector part (1.44 inches). It has no other surface features, save the diver symbol and type of batteries it accepts, printed in white on one side. The front is sealed with the reflector port, and on the back end there is a rubber button which shields the switch. The corrugated metal ring that secures this rubber button has a raised rim around it, so the torch can’t inadvertently be bumped “On”.
There is also a small hole in that rim to which a safety wrist line is looped. The safety line has a spring-loaded adjustment bit, so the line can’t float over your hand. It can be used in a variety of ways, enabling you to use the torch in many situations like camping, around the car, or whenever you need light and free hands.
Lamp and Reflector
At the heart of the torch is a Cree XML – L2 LED that delivers 1000 Lm flux at 5000K light temperature (~Daylight). The light cone is focused via highly polished aluminum reflector. This LED is housed within the small, sealed space, and the operating heat is conducted and dissipated by the large outside surface of the lamp / reflector case. It functions well in the air, so it functions even better underwater. For that very reason I was more in favor of an all-metal torch, since plastic materials over the years may be affected by the heat, and plastic is not nearly as effective in heat dissipation. This would be more noticeable and important when you use a torch in the air, though.
Switch
Covered with thick, soft rubber, the button switch allows you to control the light in three ways. Press the button deeply, and the light switches On and Off. When the light is On, press it halfway and the lamp emits a weaker light, thus saving the power. Press it halfway again, and a continuous blinking signal is emitted. Very simple and effective use of a single switch!
The rubber button cover is, to my eyes, a new approach at the switch sealing solution. In my diving heydays I was more used to magnetic reed-relays that didn’t require any extra sealings. Where the mechanical switches were used, those were rotational and sealed with o-rings. But I guess the lesser pressures I’m going to expose this torch to won’t be nowhere near its declared maximum depth / pressure rating.
Battery Options
Yet another among the nice things is the choice of power source you can use with this unit. Two types (printed on the torch) are either 26650 or 18650, which are rechargeable 3.7V batteries. These battery types are gaining more popularity, ever since incandescent bulbs were effectively replaced with LEDs. A third option comprises a package of 3 serially connected AAA type battery cells, and to that purpose there is an adapter, right within the torch. It slides into a plastic tube that adapts the diameter of the package to the inner volume of the torch. To use the xx650 type batteries, just remove the adapter.
UPDATE: In the meantime I have replaced the adapter and triple-AAA “throwaway” batteries for 18650 cells. An “intellicharger” like Nitecore NEW i2 is one critical item for charging the Li-ions, too. It analyses the battery state and optimises the charging program individually for each cell, which is important for Li-ion batteries known to develop various problems if charged improperly. The i2 in its name means it can charge two cells; there are models that can charge more cells at the same time. On the practical side, it can charge from 100-240VAC (50/60Hz) and also from the car battery (9-12VDC) via the optional car lighter plug.
This charger can recognize and safely handle great variety of rechargeable battery types (IMR, Li-ion, Ni-MH, Ni-Cd and LiFePO4) and sizes (AA, AAA, AAAA, C and D, also the new sizes from 10340 thru 26650).
Assuming you are already familiar with the usual A, C, and D sizes, let me just mention how the new numerical descripts relate to battery size. The first two numbers reveal the battery diameter in milimeters, the next two denote its length, while the 0 on the end means the battery is cylindrical in form. So, an 14430 battery has a 14mm diameter, its length is 43mm, and it is cylindrical (round like 0 in cross-cut).
If you plan to use the torch somewhere where there is no recharging outlet available, just take along sufficient quantity of single-use AAAs and you’ll be fine. Those were once called “throwaway” batteries, but we know better now – so please always dispose of the used cells in a responsible manner!
Specifications
Omitted in the Specs is the 18650 battery type; but it is marked on the torch, anyway.
Summary
I’m happy with what I have received for less than $12, and the feeling did not wane after I have inspected and tested this product! For now (which means winter in my parts) the water is too cold for me to test it under the surface, but I’ll surely update this review when I do. The manufacture is neat and from what I see, this torch will work well underwater. All the sealing elements are sound; these will need usual care and maintenance (see more about it here), but that is normal procedure with all the water-going tech that we use.
So far I am using the torch in everyday life and it works as intended. Isn’t that the best one can expect? I’ll conclude with clear and unequivocal recommendation:
The Xiaomi Mi Robot Vacuum Cleaner, a.k.a Rockrobo Vacuum v1, is one of Xiaomi’s many creations within their Ecosystem Program that encompasses lifestyle products like cameras, routers, smartphones, TVs and more. We are very excited to bring to you the Xiaomi Mi Robot Vacuum Cleaner review! Spoiler, we recommend this purchase.
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What’s In The Box?
The Xiaomi robot vacuum unit
The charging base
A power cord
A brush cleaning tool
A user manual
User’s Manual
A user manual is included; unfortunately, it is in Chinese. I was able to download the English pdf version online since even the graphics in the manual have Chinese descriptions. There are a few incorrectly placed English descriptions with the graphics, and some of the text needs a more thorough proofreading.
Dimensions and Design
The Xiaomi Mi Robot Vacuum Cleaner looks like a self-ambulating pie that is 38 centimeters (13.4 inches) in diameter and about 8 centimeters (3.15 inches) tall, weighing a tad less than 4 kilograms (8.8 pounds). With a shiny white ABS-like plastic finish, it has an elegant and sleek design. This household device is neither too big, nor too small. You could say that the Xiaomi Mi designers wanted it to appear similar to the autonomous devices seen in SciFi movies – they have indeed succeeded in that aspect. So keywords would be clean, simple, elegant, futuristic, and beautiful.
Operation
The Rockrobo receives power from a 5200mAh Li-ion battery at 14.4V for roughly 150 minutes, or about 2,690 square feet (250 square meters) of cleaning. When the battery charge drops to 20%, the vacuum cleaner will seek the charging base and charge the battery to about 80%. Once this percentage is achieved, it will return to the location where it left off and continue its work from there.
A small side brush makes contact with ridges and corners around the floor to dislodge dirt and dust, which is channeled to the suction opening and then into the collection container. This cleaner works well on smooth flooring, as well as on other various other types of raised, ridged, and bumpy surfaces. I’d say the cleaner is efficiently designed.
Navigation
The Xiaomi Robot Cleaner uses the Simultaneous Localization and Mapping (SLAM) movement algorithm to map the configuration of your space in order to determine the way it will move about the room.
Its spatial awareness comes from 12 different sensors which include the laser distance sensor, ultrasonic radar sensor, gyroscope, accelerometer, four cliff sensors, speedometer, and electronic compass. All of the environmental information converge at three of the unit’s processors where the “decisions” are finalized in its all-round spatial awareness.
Thus, the Robot is actually planning its movement rather than aimlessly blundering about doing its best to avoid all the obstacles that your specific floor configuration might have. Its movement will be purposeful, exactly pre-planned and monitored.
For reasons explained in the “App” section, I was only able to hear the standard mode’s operating noise, but elsewhere it was said that the machine emits 68-70 dB in power mode, 64 dB in standard mode, and 61 dB in quiet mode. It is comparatively quieter than hand-guided vacuum cleaners, if that observation helps, but I wouldn’t say it is overly loud.
I have several dogs to test the noise by! Interestingly, they were not alarmed at all by this strange device ambulating all across the room. Neither the ultrasonics, nor the motor and brush noise bothered them in the slightest – an important quality worth mentioning!
Unit Cleaning
Both brushes and the dust container can, and must, be cleaned on a periodical basis to keep the robot working properly. For that purpose, the manufacturer has added one small plastic comb to remove dirt and fibers from the rotating parts.
I have found that some carpet strands and fronds, united with pet hair, effectively resist the comb. Instead, I had to use small scissors to cut through such tightly wound knots. The small comb had no chance there. I don’t think it’s a big problem, just something that should be noted for the future models.
On the plus side, all parts that require such attention are super easy to remove and return to their proper positions, and they can’t be replaced wrong.
We highly recommend the 5PC Mi Robot Accessory Pack: 1 Virtual Wall, 1 Rolling Brush, 1 Box of Side Brushes ( 2pcs ), 1 Box of Filters ( 2pcs ), 1 Rolling Brush Cover. Check out the package on this link.
Dust Container
At 0.4 liters (13.5 ounces), it is rather small – so you might think. It may appear small when you first start using it, but you will quickly realize it is actually plenty large enough. The container is right under the unit’s top cover and easily accessible. The container can be emptied in 20 seconds then replaced to let the Mi Robot continue. It’s that simple!
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Mi Home App
This is the longest section here, but not without reason. It happens to be my main beef with this robot cleaner. Then again, it is only fair to say that many folks did not encounter any problems, at least according to their published statements.
The robot can be remotely operated through Xiaomi’s Mi Home app. Many functions can be set up remotely: switching the unit On/Off, choosing between three cleaning modes, defining different cleaning schedules, monitoring the cleaning, and also memorizing cleaning patterns for various rooms. For all this to function, you’ll need an internet connection, and a login to the Xiaomi page.
The Mi Home app is, by default, in Chinese, but you can alter the language. In my case, some app screens appeared in English but others didn’t. This problem persists even after downloading the latest update. I searched for help with this translation issue, and upon finding help, I did my very best to make the App co-operate; with me as with the cleaner.
Mi Home app asks that you login to the Mi site with your email and password, along with approving the app to access your phone data. According to some information gleaned on another site, the app/vacuum need access to your home router as well. This, I can understand since it makes it accessible from anywhere – something many folks might find useful, but also something many can do without.
I strongly maintain that such apps should be a lot simpler. They should be more device-related and possibly less interested in my personal affairs, including my accounts, numbers, contacts, and all else not related to the floor hoovering! However, even with the above permissions temporarily allowed for the purpose of this review, I am forced to admit that I did not succeed in connecting the phone to this Robot, as opposed to an action cam app where such procedure is pretty straightforward and comparatively undemanding.
Whatever I did, the App would not recognize my Robot, not even when I manually added it.
My main goal was to have the cleaner’s voice message base replaced by something I could understand, since now it speaks to me in Chinese. Suffice it to say I never got that far. The next day, I tried to tackle this task all over again, but the results were the same. The changes I attempted only provoked diagnostics along the lines of not available right now, or unable to change. In all, this was pretty frustrating.
Most importantly, all the Mi Robot functions should have been made accessible by the available hardware commands on the device itself! The way things are, one practically needs a smartphone in order to program some, otherwise inaccessible options, like cleaning intensity, speed, language change, voice & sound level, operations scheduling, etc.
Had Mi decided to integrate a small action cam type monitor, this would suffice for total interaction with the device. With the computing power already on board, the usability of this device would be more direct, and also more user friendly. The smartphone control could’ve simply been left as optional.
Here is just one example of friendly suggestions aimed at helping people to connect the Mi Home app to their smartware. YouTube is loaded with videos of these good-hearted attempts, so it is hard to ignore that many people experience problems with this App.
See the copy/paste of one such set of instructions found on the internet:
Step 1. The first thing you have to do is to download the Mi Home App, to install it on your smartphone and to make an account with Xiaomi.
Step 2. After the app is installed, turn on the robot vacuum, open the wireless settings on your phone and search for the WiFi spot produced by the robot. It should be something with the word “robot” inside. Connect to this network.
Step 3. Open the app and search among the Xiaomi product for the robot vacuum. Tap it and wait for the software to connect.
Step 4. Insert the WiFi settings from your own home router which is connected to the internet.
Step 5. Disconnect from the robot WiFi and connect instead to you home WiFi, which has internet. Your device should appear online.
My impression of the App? Mightily sloppy work for a program aimed at being one very important component of a global product. Even when it works for some people and/or Xiaomi devices, the Mi Home app left me with a mixture of feelings which managed to douse my enthusiasm about this, otherwise, fine appliance.
Summary
There are just two buttons to command the Xiaomi Mi Robot Vacuum, but there is no way to access all functions and options without installing the Mi Home app for iOS or Android. This should have been solved in some other way, especially since the manufacturer thinks that everyone has a smartphone and home WiFi readily available. One small, cheap, LCD monitor would have easily done away with the hassle of an app, and perhaps add to the number of satisfied users.
Xiaomi Robot Vacuum Cleaner works excellently on smooth surfaces and also on various types of carpeting. The unit’s drive system can climb up to 15-degree slopes, so it can practically go anywhere, except the stairs. Maybe an upgrade can solve even that – wouldn’t surprise me at all!
When you hear the voice signal from the lady inside, just touch any of the unit commands to temporarily stop the operation and empty the dust container. The robot doesn’t stop for this by itself since it may occur somewhere inaccessible, like deep under the bed. Instead, it will continue to move so you’ll stop it when it is convenient for you. When the dust container is replaced, a short press of the “Start” command makes the cleaner continue. This part is very easy and simple, thanks to the good concept and design.
Several more filters should have been added, and perhaps some among those should be washable. The one included with the cleaner must not be washed because it could clog with the fine dust particles.
At this moment there are only the HEPA filters available. (HEPA stands for High Efficiency Particulate Air, High Efficiency Particulate Absorber – sometimes also called High Efficiency Particulate Arresting type of air filter).
The battery charges relatively fast, somewhere between 90 and 120 minutes. It depends upon several factors, like grid power consistency, battery age, and basic things like good contact with the power adapter. Across the internet some people have found that poor contact may be problematic, so check this on your unit! Thanks to the unit’s excellent spatial orientation, the recharging base is easily found and the connection process is exact.
I think this is one very good product – it only needs a more imaginative aspect of simplified operation range available right on the cleaner, and the App should remain optional.
In this article, let me gently dissect a highly-anticipated GitUp G3 Duo camera. After the company’s great success with Git 1 and Git 2, we at Pevly have been quite excited at the chance to test the successor to a well-known pair, as soon as the G3 was announced.
The scene opens just like so many times before. The car honks outside, our doggies scream back and run to the balcony to see what’s up. And there’s our postman, first producing the receipt book to be signed, and then he hands over one big cardboard box. It is wickedly wicked in brown sellotape, adorned with stickers and crisscrossed with fiber bands for safety appearance and rough handling. The box is rather heavy, feels like a well-packed brick. When I cut through the bands and sticking tape, I see about a year’s supply of plastic bubble sheets. Let’s unwrap and see…
What’s In The Box?
Two boxes!
The large box contains a GitUp G3 Duo camera in its protective casing and, you guessed it, one smaller box. It is filled with mounts and cables. Each of those parts is in its own ziploc® bag, and all that is in one bigger ziploc bag. Someone out there loves to pack!
The other box holds the GitUp Duo Slave camera – revealing the „duo“ hint in this cam’s name. It is a hefty, tubular camera on one end of a 5mm thick cable. The other end features a mini USB contact with the same clever shape used with SJCAM SJ6 Legend Air. One single accessory found in the package is a plastic ring that fixes the Slave cam to its base mount.
Connecting the two cameras introduces you to something… let me call it Chameleon View… since that lizard too can independently direct each of its eyes!
It is high, and no doubt about it whatsoever. GitUp obviously values precision in production and putting together of all components. Everything feels nice and sturdily compact to the eyes and touch as if the product is a single piece.
The camera sides are grippy with tasteful diagonal corrugation. Its front plate edges are elegantly inclined toward the body. This all-black cam with dark glass touchscreen; the whole just spells hi-tech and hi-taste.
True, the cam still appears designed from the monitor out, being boringly brick-like with the lens tube sticking out of the frontal upper corner… This is already becoming hard to grasp nowadays, as there are so many better form factors to explore! I tend to repeat myself lamenting on designers which stubbornly stick with a box-in-the-box concept, instead of building the innards right into the solid water- and pressure-proof box, et cetera. There’s a lot of ceteras, but here we are. I can only grumble until someone deigns to pay attention.
Still, this cam design details somehow compensate for a rather uninventive overall shape.
The two buttons are just slightly convex and set flush with the front and upper surface. At first, you need to feel the surface difference to locate them. The front (ON / Mode) button has a gently engraved switch symbol on its surface, which helps to locate it until you remember it’s diagonally on the other end from the lens! The top (Shutter) button is smooth, and you find it by the difference in texture amid its surrounding surface. Before you get used to this you might search for a while, especially if you’re wearing gloves.
Good things are found on the cam underside, too. There is a brass-made, six-turns-deep standard ¼“-20 tripod bushing, just slightly off the lens’ optical axis. And there is a spring-loaded battery cover that slides out to unlock. It is rather friction-resistive, and it feels safe.
Beneath the battery cover, you’ll be happy to see one fat Li-ion battery taking up about 1/3rd of the total camera volume. See more about the battery in the Specifications.
Camera underside, with 1/4″-20 tripod bush and 1200mAh battery revealed.
First Attempt
Using the smartphone charger with the cam’s own cable I went to charge the battery. The camera LEDs lighted red, and its screen showed an animated battery-charging symbol. In the meantime I have also downloaded the latest firmware and rummaged among my memory card stash looking for an adequate MicroSD. Which means the memory card must be rated Class 10 or UHS-1, and not over 128GB.
I unpacked the firmware zip container, formatted the SD card, and copied the firmware binary file to its root. Clicking the card into the camera, I then concentrated on the User Manual.
User Manual
I feel everyone should read the Manual right away, never mind how comfy one feels handling some new gear! It is never quite what you’d expect. Getting yourself acquainted with all the long and short pressings, taps and sweeps will save you some frustration.
The booklet included with the GitUp G3 Duo is very well made. It is rather small, measuring just about 10 x 7 centimeters. Its 32 pages contain detailed, refreshingly correctly written info on all camera functions, presented in easy, dumb-proof text and drawings. If you have old eyes like mine, the .pdf version enables page enlarging for more comfortable perusement.
Camera contacts and MicroSD slot. Note the silicone lens cap, too!
In the meantime, it took just about an hour to top off the battery, as it had arrived partially charged already. So I was feeling safe to proceed and update the firmware.
Firmware
It is quite a simple process, which has seemingly been adopted by the majority of camera manufacturers. I unpacked the downloaded firmware zip container, and within there was a Changelog.txt file and GIT3FW.bin file. Making sure the camera was OFF, I took out the MicroSD card and formatted it in my laptop to FAT32. Then I transfered the .bin file to the card, and inserted the card back into the camera.
Switching the camera ON makes it go look for the card, and when it finds a .bin file, the updating process begins. All the LEDs blink in various colors and tempo, there are some short dark pauses – be patient – the lightshow occurs once more, and after maybe a minute or so, the firmware upgrading file erases itself and the camera switches itself On. Done!
There is a slightly different procedure for it, as suggested on the GitUp Firmware Updating page, and it goes like this:
Upgrade Instructions:
Use max. 128GB card formatted by camera or on computer as FAT32
Insert card in camera and connect it to computer using USB cable
Copy just the GIT3FW.bin on the root of the card
After GIT3FW.bin is copied to the card disconnect the camera from computer
Reconnect the camera to your computer and wait about 30 seconds until you can choose Mass Storage from camera menu, the front green LED and back red LED will be blinking while upgrading. Now you can disconnect the camera from PC and enjoy new GitUp implementations.
During the firmware update, some settings will reset to their default values. So you’ll have to re-check the date/time, beeps, signals, and also some preferences related to photo and/or video resolutions, bitrates, or working modes that you might have set previously.
When you become familiar with various taps and sweeps on the camera touchscreen, you’ll easily check the latest firmware version, how to format the card in-camera, and many other things, as this camera really is rich with functions and options!
One dinky tweak relates to personalization of your camera that might save you some grief if you somehow manage to lose it.
You can modify your Startup and Shutdown screens to carry your personal information. It gives you hope that someone, upon finding your lost camera can return it to you.
Here’s a how-to:
Make a JPEG picture sized 320 x 240 px and insert your personal content as per wish. It might contain your photo, e-mail address, phone number, or more. Save the image as logo.jpg taking care it is not larger than 20KB. (Hint: 96 ppi resolution will be sufficient!)
Format the MicroSD and copy logo.jpg to the card root directory. Put the card into the camera and switch it on. There will be a message „logo updated OK“. The image is replaced in the software and erased from the card. It will appear upon the next camera startup.
You can do the same procedure for the Shutdown screen. Just name another image logo2.jpg
Main Camera
The GitUp G3 Duo is literally a dual camera. It has this curious option of a dedicated slave camera that one connects to the main camera by USB cable. As the slave camera is optional, you’d have to have some original ideas about using it along with the main cam, but action camera users shouldn’t lack in imagination department. It is not difficult to envision situations where one camera would look this way, and the other that way. You might find it interesting to record an action while recording the recording of that action, who can tell? Or maybe your video should show both the action and behavior of some detail within? Then there is the „one look front, one look back“ car scenario… How would I know? I only test dem thangs!
As always, the singular limit is one’s imagination! Me, I’d like to be able to record things both underwater and above water in the same time. By dint of my typical lack-a-luck, it’s a straight no-go, as there is no watertight option for connected cameras. The technical requirement is not insurmountable, of course. Just not possible with the current set and setup.
Back at the farm, there are numerous dry-world scenarios where dual cam system can be fun.
The main camera’s top resolution is 2160p when it operates alone. With the slave cam connected, the resolution of each is 1080p @ 30fps, and you can control what is recorded via picture-in-picture (PIP) shown on the main cam monitor. You can pick which camera will deliver the main image, and which will be revealed by the inner frame. The cameras, however, record two separate video files titled as [filename]-A and [filename]-B.
Without the slave cam, GitUp Duo primary behaves just like any other action camera.
NOTE: There’s a typo in the source specs: main cam’s FOV is 170°, not 150°.
Rich choice of modes and settings…
Slave Camera
This camera adds another perspective to your recording via its 135° field of view. It is tubular in shape, with a glassed-off lens port on its „stem“, and about three meters (!) of sturdy cable emerging from its „stern“. The cable finishes in an USB mini contact of the same type that you find on data transfer, battery charging, TV, and external microphone cable. However, the slave camera (with either built-in, or a stand-alone) 10X GPS module connects to another USB point. Since various accessories connect to the main camera via the same type of USB connector, one should take care when choosing a proper connecting receptacle. Perhaps there should have been different connector types used for easier differentiation? Maybe.
Here’s what comes within the optional Slave Camera package.
The Slave Camera has a single red LED signal on its upper surface. It shows continuous light when the camera is connected, and a blinking light during the recording.
On the camera’s underside there is a ¼“ tripod bushing and that’s about all to see there. Beside the slave camera, its box contains a fixing ring that goes around its circumference, and fits the standard three-pronged swivel mount with a usual finger-tightening screw. The ring fits to another types of mounts, though, so it can also be used with third-party accessories, actually with any three-pronged swivel receptacle from the wide range of models and manufacturers. And of course, thanks to the universal tripod point, this cam’s mounting modes are practically unlimited.
Whatever resolution you have set on the GitUp G3 Duo main camera, the connection od the slave cam will reset to 1080p @ 30fps, so both cameras will share that resolution for the duration of the session. Details can be gleaned from the informative User Manual added to the slave camera package. It is the same Manual delivered with the main camera, so you’ll have two if you add the slave cam to your range of accessories.
You can’t use the Duo’s Slave cam independently. It works only connected to the main cam, for now. I wish GitUp could be challenged to perfect this Duo in several ways, one of those providing a water-resistant concept. So the slave could observe the scene under the surface, while the main camera would record the over-the-surface content!
No external commands and tubular form factor suggest it would be easy to pack the slave’s minimal electronics and optics into a waterproof case. Only the lens port and the cable would have to be sealed, and cable sealing is easy. It has already been perfected 40 years ago!
For the same purpose, the main camera’s protective encasement should be made with a sealable USB port. That way one could use the Duo underwater, but also in all adverse weather conditions. There’d be useful uses for it in many boating applications, and I’d guess many would appreciate that.
GitUp G3 Duo 2K Action Camera With WiFi – Pro Pack
There are ways to tweak the camera settings to achieve better results in every mode, but the best test is to let the camera do the choosing. So the optical, electronic, and firmware side have a chance to give you some insight into this three-sided collaboration.
Right off, the daylight results are acceptable – especially the color and sharpness as set to default values. Twilight results are also correct. Night-time, it gets better when Wide Dynamic Range is ON, which is understandable. In the daylight, applying WDR might reduce contrast. It will depend upon the ambiental light the camera is encountering. It works quite correctly under the Sodium and LED streetlight since there is usual sufficiency of detail. Car headlights will differ since not all cars use the light of the same temperature. The lightcone returns satisfactory results, its reflective values will tend to be a tad low.
Audio Test is included in the Night Drive footage! With my car radio set at decent loudness level and the camera audio set at Medium, all that’s to hear is there – including wind and engine noise. I for one, am very satisfied with the way this camera records ambiental sound. And external microphone just makes things better.
Let’s never forget the camera’s technical limitations reflected in the price, though. All in all, I think GitUp G3 Duo is worth every cent. Best see and hear for yourself:
Disclaimer: Video below shows Audio ON for the slave camera. Slave camera does not collect sound, so even though the audio will appear in the video, the sound you’ll hear is recorded by the main camera.
Photo Quality
In low light, and letting the camera pick the elements all by itself, the images will be a tad too dark and noisy. Shooting out of hand in low light is not recommended, so if you must take photos, find something stable to lean on, or use a tripod. These things are to be expected, considering the sensor size. On the good side, at least the JPEG engine doesn’t overly smear the details, and you have a chance to post-process the photos to your liking.
In normal daylight, the camera will enjoy the scenery, rendering attractive colors. Images will be sharp and acceptable. Against the light, there is some tonal reducement between the lightest portions of the image and its darker parts. In all, the camera manages quite well, and the overall price shouldn’t cause you to grumble at all.
Funny things happen sometimes and the reasons are hard to detect. At times, the cam seems to apply slightly different image ratio – not quite 4:3, or not exactly 16:9. I can only presume it has to do with EIS (Gyro) action that might slide some contents out of the sensor margins, retaining only the stabilized portion. I could be wrong there, since I’ve had the Gyro switched On all the time, but variation of ratio was not always there.
Photographed with GitUp G3 primary camera; against the sunlight to the right.Photographed with GitUp G3 primary camera; direct sunlight on the rightside margin.Photographed with GitUp G3 primary camera; combatting sunlight at the right marginPhotographed with GitUp G3 primary camera; Wide Dynamic Range switched On reduces harsh contrast.Photographed with GitUp G3 primary camera; WDR (Wide Dynamic Range) mellows the contrast.Photographed with GitUp G3 primary camera; indoors, lightsources of various temperatures (Tungsten & fluorescent).Photographed with GitUp G3 primary camera; outdoors at night – LED streetlight only.Photographed with GitUp G3 primary camera; twilight plus LED streetlightPhotographed with GitUp G3 primary camera; cloudy lighting conditions.Photographed with GitUp G3 primary camera; lighted by cloudy and foggy weather.Photographed with GitUp G3 primary camera; foggy lighting conditions.
Battery test
Truth be said, I did most of the photo and video tests here on a first full charge. That is, the battery arrived partially charged, I topped it up in about 60 minutes using standard 5VDC/1A smartphone charger. While I fumbled with camera settings and shot some test photos in various modes, the battery symbol hardly changed at all.
After recording about 1.2GB of mixed content the battery was finally flat. Here follow some pretty good numbers for a 1200mAh capacity. I timed the battery endurance for just the main camera and also with dual camera power use; at the highest resolution, as well as at the highest fps recording.
Recording with Main camera at 2160p = 90min, followed by 110min recharging
Recording with Dual cameras at 1080p = 95min, followed by 112min recharging
Recording with Main cam 720p/120fps = 105min, followed by 110min recharging
Recording with Dual cams 720p/120fps = 100min, and fully re-charged in 110min
NOTE: these values are approximate at best since there are variables that influence the tests, such as ambiental temperature, internal temperature, usage with or without protective housing, specific charger, battery production batch, also monitor or WiFi being Off or On, or single vs. double camera employed, etc.
More Features
Built-in Gyro helps ironing out visually disturbing vibrations and shocks in a recorded video.
The camera can be used as a webcam. You will be offered such choice when you connect it via USB to your computer.
Upon the first connection as a webcam, and if you’re running Windows 7 like I do, it will go search for the latest cam driver. As the Windows secret name is „Please Wait“, that search takes until the cows come home. But the next time everything is better. Isn’t it always?
An independent GPS dongle lets you record a variety of useful external data. There is also an in-line GPS unit available with the Slave camera and features a cheaper two-in-one option.
You can’t connect an external stereo microphone, but the mono you add will work parallel with the one built into the camera. Speaking of microphones… there are no indices where the mike or a loudspeaker on the primary camera are located, not even in the Manual. But there is a row of 13 tiny holes just above the cable contacts on the cam’s left-hand side, described as „cooling holes“. 13… maybe there’s more to it than just some hot air exit!
The camera’s 2.0″ touch screen makes setting up of various functions in an intuitive and easy way. In some submenus, the touch screen responsiveness appears a bit sluggish, which is quizzical. Feels like the screen needs a different charge depending upon… hard to say what. Use it another time, and it will react normally. Maybe my finger is not equally charged every time? Anyway, it works… just that it’s not equally responsive.
Various mounts in the package cover most attaching means and needs. But then, 90% among third-party accessories and mounts will be compatible, and thus easy to acquire.
The type of mini USB connector used ranks among the most solid of the sort.You might even have such cables from decades back. These will work well – and again!
GitUp App
It is easy to control your GitUp action camera with GitUp APP, since you get full remote control of all camera functions! You can use your phone to take photos, start and stop recording, and easily adjust all the settings. And it works as advertised. Very well made and stable software, at least its Android version. I was not equipped to test it with iPhone, as there is no-one with an iOS phone in my vicinity – at least not at this time of the year.
Underwater Casing
The diveable waterproof case is built along the lines and principles usually present with almost all action cameras. It consists of acrylic (Perspex) transparent body, a lens port, the main hatch, two sealed pin-button commands, a latch & lock hatch mechanism, and a standard two-pronged swivel mount.
There are some notable differences between this GitUp case and other similar products.
The casing’s main hatch opens sidewise, with the hinge on its left-hand side and the latch/lock on the right side (with the camera held in recording position). This keeps the topside uncluttered, and the Shutter button command free. Also, when closing the case around its shorter side the hatch gasket enters its casing seat with less friction that might cause it to twist or warp.
And indeed, the casing’s hatch rim reveals a significantly thinner gasket. So the hatch can be closed with no need to force the gasket, and when it is completely closed, the latch will hold it in that position with almost zero force fighting against the closing mechanism.
In turn, it means more durability for all parts involved. The latch has no extra springy elements, because it doesn’t have to counteract forces working inside-out, such as gasket elasticity and imperfect dimensioning. GitUp G3 Duo casing is refreshingly more precisely made, and I’m looking forward to use it underwater. For now, the weather keeps me out of the water, on the dry, warm side of life.
Let me mention the case pin commands that operate the two camera buttons. These work exactly like any other action cam casing commands, transferring finger pressure via o-ring sealed metal pins. The pin is centered within its guiding well, kept in position by a biased spring under the button, and an e-clip on the end of the pin.
New to my experience is the button on each pin being finished in plastic instead of metal. These two commands sit in much shallower wells and have much shorter travel; barely two millimeters. Aside from sheer elegance considerations, pressing upon this command is easier, and also returns a very positive tactile feedback.
There is no exact data on the lens port. I could not bring myself to scratch it to check whether it’s made of glass. GitUp pages describe it as „Dual mirror surface optical and waterproof membranes with high transmittance“, which does not reveal much in common optical terminology. So I’d say it is highly polished, plan-parallel acrylic port – until I’m proven wrong. It will require careful use and maintenance to avoid scratches.
An optional skeletal case is available optionally, similar to a waterproof one, but open on its left side. This enables the attaching of various cable-connected accessories, mainly those listed as optional. It is supposed to keep the camera safe from the rain, presumably if it isn’t an aquacera, or wind-blown in from the left…
GitUp G3 Duo at work, mounted on an articulated arm (see it in detail here).
GitUp G3 Duo Specifications
[go_pricing id=”gitup_g3_duo”]
Accessories (included)
One waterproof case, one Handlebar mount, one Flat and one Curved adhesive mounts, two mount extension elements (both at 90-degree angle), two mount fastening screws, one Tripod-to-Swivel adapter, one Swivel-to-Tripod adapter, one USB data & charging cable, and one very useful Silicone lens cover.
Accessories (optional)
A dedicated slave camera
A dedicated slave camera with 10X GPS module (that’s its name, not quantity!)
10X GPS standalone module (USB-connected)
Bluetooth Wrist Remote Control, Skeleton case (lefthand side open for cable connection)
Extra battery, External microphone, and Connection cables (A/V, composite A/V, USB / TV, External Microphone/charging, FPV)
Summary
GitUp has that certain high-quality approach to their products and the G3 Duo is no exception. From the very first look and handling, it spells quality in both design and manufacture. Materials feel good. Components fit each other well, are put together meticulously, and the whole product appears as solid as one single piece. You might find the dual camera concept a tad sprinkled with question marks, but then the application ideas begin to appear as if provoked by the new range of possibilities. Okay, I am somewhat (er, a lot) oriented to water usage, so my regular response is an ever so slight grumble about the inability to use the tandem too close to water. Then again, there are so many dry-land possibilities for this tech… except when the weather plays up at the wrong moment! Then you’d have to pack up the gear and seek out some rain, sleet, or snow-free shelter muy pronto! Let’s hope GitUp accepts the challenge and provides the same product in a no-compromise waterproof version.
The availability of FPV connection suggests the camera usage with remotely controlled carriers, like RC planes, helicopters, quadcopters, and boats. Wouldn’t some, if not all, profit from a somewhat less optimistic approach to possible water influence and damage?
Thus, just a hint here: GitUp, please consider doing away with box-in-the-box protection, and just build the camera innards right into a properly waterproofed encasement!
That includes also the USB cable end modifications, so these can be connected in a waterproof way, which is not complicated at all. Look up the ancient Nikonos III, IVa, or V models sync cable contact watertighting! It’s high time to revive some good, old solutions.
The very concept would attract many usages that are now either too risky or plain impossible.
Otherwise, throughout its range of functions and available options, I have found both cameras operating correctly – which is as it has been advertised – which is the best you can expect! The occasional sluggish reaction of touchscreen in some setup modes is something I’ve never seen before, but I think it can be fixed in the next firmware iteration. It’s not that it wouldn’t work at all though, so I think many people will be happy with this product.
Underwater Case for Xiaomi MiJia 4K Mini (unbranded, generic)
I got me a protective case for Xiaomi MiJia Mini, and it looks fine. If you decide to buy, you will find it is also incredibly cheap, especially on e-Bay where I got mine.
Sleek and transparent acryllic encasement is simple, since the camera itself only has one button which can do On-Off and Start-Stop. All else is accessible via its touchscreen…
… that can’t be accessed, once the camera is enclosed in the protective case! So do you have to stick to your recording plan that you set up prior to taking your cam under the surface? If you later wanted to change something, do you have to reach some place where you can dry the casing, open it, and use the touchscreen?
Simplicity is a good thing… Generally true, but not always, I thought.
And then I played around in the menu called “In Housing Mode” just to find out that you can yet use that single command button for other things. Namely, in that setting, long-press will open the list of other options, such as Video, Timelapse, Photo, Photo Timelapse, etc., and you can loop through those options using short-press command. Of course, any special setting within any of the options mentioned should have been set up before (e.g. timelapse intervals, or photo ISO value, etc.) but then the changes, though limited to certain point, are still possible. The last option in “In Housing Mode” is Off, thus replacing the general function of long-press when the cam is not encased.
This is one of the most comprehensible use of one single-button command I have seen yet. Good thinking, Xiaomi!
This command button does not sit properly in its guiding well because of wrong dimensioning.
As you can see in the above photo, the casing’s command button is too small – on a pin that is too long. It rages out of its leading well, which should actually ensure a wobble-free, straight-down linear movement. So, either the button pin is too long – or the well is too shallow! This is risky, as the pressing upon this button in a not exactly vertical move might upset the o-ring in its seat, enough to squirt water over the camera.
Aside from that, my main beef is about the bewilderingly constant wrong technology that the manufacturers use with the main hatch (“door”) sealing in a watertight case. Mainly it is directly related to the sealing principle, since they apply a wedge gasket, versus an infinitely safer o-ring. But the seal on this case that I got for Xiaomi MiJia Mini is the worst version by far, even compared to some other wedge-type sealings.
Seal elasticity fighting the correct positioning in its seat. The asymmetric way of closing makes it worse.
Let me explain. It may be a lengthy read, but it just could spare you some costly frustration.
All underwater Action Camera casings I have seen use plastic latches & locks on the (usually) upper side of the case, and a simple hinge on the other. The plastic latch is supposed to keep the main hatch closed – so as to keep the sealing gasket around the hatch in its place.
The latch, supported by its oval wire spring, shouldn’t do anything else but keep the hatch in its closed position. The sealing gasket wedged between its groove and the inner rim of the case opening should sit safely in there, keeping the water out solely by its presence – and definitely not by depending upon some spring force.
A view of raised camera casing’s excenter-balance latch and spring.
Not with the case at hand, so to say! This wedge does not enter the casing completely; it rather rides between the hatch groove and the casing rim. Consequently, it uses the latch spring force to stay in this precarious position, in such way that spring force must fight the seal elasticity – that fights back!
Now imagine how the latch is stretched apart by all the described forces acting upon its material! Common plastics respond fine to being compressed, but can be as unpredictable as lottery when stretched.
Many outside influences can change the material resiliency. Changes may imperceptibly occur from wrong cleaning media (containing solvents), from heat, or sun-tan lotions, from gasoline or outboard engine oil that floats on water surfaces, and finally – from aging.
Note the thin sealing contact line! Also note the hatch rim groove, obviously made for a different gasket.
Once the material fatigue of the latch advances, the latch might snap – and quite without warning! If your camera case happens to be underwater and the outward-pressing seal forces the hatch open, your camera will suddenly and ingloriously drown, together with records of unique scenes that you have made. Might make you think certain thoughts about certain manufacturer and certain things… like a responsible design!
Even simpler than that; if the excenter-balanced latch snags on anything, it might inadvertently be opened… with pretty same results! And all because of the – ignored but present – forces in the wrongly conceived sealing system.
That, plus one lightning-fast moment of bad luck…
An example of broken latch that could not withstand the joined forces of spring and seal tensions.
Unfortunately, I have no way to test the case impermeability right now, as the inclement weather conditions do not warrant a safe dive. But I’ll make sure to test the empty casing under pressure, prior to risking the valuable camera in it. Maybe I can replace the original seal with, say, twin o-rings that would properly fit the hatch groove – if I can find adequately dimensioned ones. I’ll also try to acquire the original casing from the Official sourceor Distributor, just to point out the differences. Will let you know.
In the meantime, remember that any and all damage to your camera – any camera – from water ingress is not covered by Warranty, and is routinely regarded as a User’s Fault!
Neat, eh? But then, that’s just one among many ways the new things get sold and bought.
Good Luck!
Disclaimer: The underwater case featured and reviewed in this article is a third-party product. It is not the casing officially produced by Xiaomi. In the upcoming weeks we hope that we will have a chance to review the original casing for the MiJia Mini, its performance and quality.
A step-by step Guide to taking apart, cleaning, and re-assembling an Underwater casing.
INTRO
Action Cameras usually come with their dedicated protective cases, either right within the range of included accessories, or as an option. There is a small number of exceptions, dubbed Amphibious cameras that are already built into weatherproof or waterproof bodies. These may have separate, optionally offered casings for greater depth pressure protection.
All such devices without exception must be maintained in proper working condition! Their very functioning depends upon it, but to my knowledge there are rarely any User Guides that explain how to do it properly. That is the reason for the text you are reading right now.
Any protective weather- or waterproof encasement is a volume of constant environment, an air bubble wherein the camera can safely operate. This bubble shields the camera’s optical, electrical and electronic parts from shocks, humidity, corrosion and pressure. As the prevalent majority of such casings are very similar in concept and construction, the maintenance is pretty same for many models.
Underwater camera casing. This sample has touch-door and USB port.
CASE BODY
There is, obviously, the casing. Made from clear, hard-plastic Perspex-like material, it will have to closely follow the camera form and dimensions. The casing, or body, will have an objective / lens port, the main hatch to insert and remove the camera, an excenter-balance latching / locking arrangement, one or several command button pins with their assembly, and one accessory attachment, normally a two-pronged swivel link. Some bodies, like the one used here as an example, may also have additional openings for USB cable connection or an external microphone. Such an opening is blind-sealed by an appropriate plug when USB accessory is not being used.
Case components
Case body cleaning: Wash it closed! Use plenty of clean, lukewarm running water with no detergent, and take care to dislodge and wash off any sand, salt or biological matter using soft, lint-free rag. If you have to remove some firmly attached foreign matter, never use any tool harder than the acryllic / Perspex / ABS plastic. Wooden toothpicks are usually at hand and serve the purpose very well.
If you have used your camera in saltwater, do not let it dry up! Best wrap the brine-soaked case in wet towel until you have access to freshwater. This will help prevent the forming of salt crystals in places where these may affect the sealing consistency.
If the case has dried up prior to washing, sink it in shaded freshwater bath for an hour. Afterwards, when the salt crystals had time to dissolve, wash it in running water. Wipe off the water droplets, and let it dry in the shade.
Generally, always keep all your water-going equipment in the shade – that goes for any and all the gear you use. This prolongs its life. Before opening the casing, wipe it dry with lint-free material. Take care to open the case with the main hatch downwards, to avoid ingress of droplets remained in the sealing groove and on nearby surfaces. Use only soft material to clean / dry the inside of the casing.
An extra lens-wiping cloth (not the one you clean the lens with!) will be excellent for the purpose.
LENS PORT
The lens port is made of either a precisely polished plan-parallel glass, or a hard plastic composite. Consult the manufacturer’s specifications to determine which material they have used! Some lens ports may have additional layers, which aid in anti-fogging, ultra-violet, and for hydrophobic protection.
This means that extra care is to be paid while cleaning, even when the glass used might be extra hardened to be scratch-proof.
Lens ports are not always simply detachable from the case body. Sometimes there are glued connections there. Most times these ports are held pressed over the rubber gasket between the port and the case by several small screws. The port is then additionally covered by black plastic shielding which keeps the reflections off the camera optics.
Since this assembly is pretty sensitive to mechanical manipulation, it is best left as is, unless one has to replace the badly scratched or cracked lens port.
Any lens port obviously must be maintained perfectly transparent, so it should be meticulously and carefully cleaned. Especially so if the camera was used in saltwater, or where there might have been some chemically aggressive or abrasive matter (such as motor oil, alcohol, benzene, detergents or similar).
Case lens port – the only part that has to be perfectly transparent!
Lens port cleaning: Like the case body, it is regularly being washed from the outside. However, be extra careful there. Even if your camera port has been declared scratch-proof! I have yet to see an absolutely scratch-proof material. There might be a water-repelling layer on the outer surface, and you don’t want to wipe it off the glass.
So, never use any solvents other than water, and no tools harder than the port / case material. Every lens port is an important part of the cam’s optical system – treat it with the same care!
While cleaning the inside surface of the lens port, be careful not to use bare q-tips, because you’ll likely leave some cotton filaments to fumble with later. So fold the lens wiping cloth, put the q-tip into the fold, and use this to wipe out the port on the inside.
If you have to dislodge some stubborn dirt there, add humidity by blowing warm breath over the port. Then repeat the wiping. This should suffice to have the camera lens see clearly through the port. Remember to let all moisture evaporate before closing.
MAIN CASING PORT
The main casing port is made to be opened and closed many times, and usually has a hinge on one side, to simplify the usage. The other side has a latching arrangement that holds the port in closed position. This port or “door” has a gasket in the groove around its rim.
When closed, this forms a water-tight connection with the camera casing. Bewilderingly, most manufacturers can’t see the advantages of o-ring sealing principle, and make use of the “wedge” principle in forming their largest, or “main” gaskets.
You can find more about the o-ring sealing principle here, so let me just say that a flexible wedge system depends upon the latching mechanism, which is not half as safe – except maybe on the drawing board! But until the casing manufacturers decide to recognize o-rings, what we get is what we see is what we have!
There are hard casing ports (or “doors”), and there are also pliable plastic surfaces built into the normal port frame; these are meant for accessing the camera’s touch-screen. Touch-screen port is to be used in environments where your camera needs protective shielding, like in smoky interiors, rainy or snowy weather, or on the outside of fast-moving transport like boats, bikes, skis, jet-skis, cars, parasails, etc.
Touchscreen casing hatches do not work underwater, but can usually stand some light water pressure, since the camera monitor surface supports the soft material from the inside. One should never exceed the manufacturer-rated maximum depth / pressure! Do not ever over-stretch the soft plastic by diving with no cam inside the case!
Removing the main hatch gasket
Cleaning a hard port: Long story short, pretty same as cleaning the case body, with the exception of the seal / gasket. If this port requires serious cleaning, remove the gasket first (see above how to do that).
Cleaning a touch-screen port: Touch-screen port has a pliable, resilient plastic combined with the hard rim. While handling a touchscreen port, make sure to hold it only by the hard part, avoiding any pressure to the soft area. If serious cleaning is needed, remove the gasket first (see above how to do that).
Use pure, lukewarm water and a clean piece of cloth. Holding the hatch rim in one hand, loop the wet cloth to touch simultaneously both inner and outer side of the pliable door section. Clean both surfaces gently, applying horizontal and vertical swiping motion.
That way the sensitive plastic layer will not be overly stressed in either direction, and will remain in its normal flat state. Never apply pressure only to one side of this port, as any stretching could cause a deformation that would impede its touch-screen sensibility.
Cleaning port gaskets: In the typical main hatch, the wedge-type sealing gasket hugs a shallow groove around the frame rim. This gasket is lately made from better silicone compound that is elastic and resilient. While an improvement compared to the material used before, it still can’t compete with the superior principle of an o-ring.
Common to both sealing types mentioned is that these should be removed for proper maintenance, and it is done in the same way. See the images for details.
Properly positioned wedge-type gasket
I have never received any answer to my widely sent question to many manufacturers as to whether the silicone gaskets should be greased or not. Nothing about it was ever mentioned in any Action Camera Guide that I have ever seen or handled. Still, I’d suggest a thin film of silicone grease to the gasket, so it can slide into its seat without twisting and warping.
For the same reason you should never close the casing by forcing its latch. Always carefully press the hatch into position by fingers! When it is properly seated, hold it and just apply the latch to keep it closed. If the latch has to fight the hatch gasket elasticity to close, the force exerted upon the plastic will be strong, and the latch might break.
The casing I am using for explanation here is somewhat special in that it has double o-rings sealing its button commands. Some models may have single o-rings, which is neither better nor worse. I mean, double o-rings aren’t necessarily safer, but help with more equal pressure distribution and also better keep dirt on the outside.
Another detail is, this case has an extra USB port on the right side, which accepts weather-proof cable connection, or an o-ring sealed blind plug for diving. Here’s how to typically remove an o-ring for cleaning or replacement.
Typical safe removal of an o-ring
To my experience, o-rings should be always clean and lubricated, because these have to move in their grooves to function. Other sealing type elements (like silicone compound wedge-type) should be slightly greased, and it would enable these to attain their positions better.
But there are some sealing gaskets made from microscopically porous materials (similar to Neoprene), which are sometimes found in weather-proof (NOT waterproof!) camera openings, and these materials should NEVER be greased, because lubricants will saturate the micro-pores and “set” the gasket shape, making it non-elastic.
Such gaskets quickly become unyielding, and will consequently perform poorly. Which means, not at all.
LATCH / LOCK
Most of the camera casings close the main hatch by excenter-balance type latch, supported by any kind of spring which keeps the latch in closed position. Some latches also have a lock that needs to be released for the latch to open, and this feature safeguards against inadvertent opening of the hatch. These locking latches will have additional springs beside the usual elastic element the latches are constructed with.
In my experience, the plastic latch material differs from the material used in, say, accessories for attaching the cams. Such mechanisms are also exposed to different forces, as the latch material is “pulled apart”. Oppositely, the attaching accessory plastic elements are pressed together, and plastic material better stands such forces.
What this boils down to is, one should take care never to allow the latch / lock plastic material to contact any chemical media that could change its resiliency, i.e. make it brittle! Of course, the latch mechanisms are replaceable, but the time it takes will never be replaced
In rare cases you might want to detach the latch mechanism from the casing. Be extra careful, especially if the case has been used for a long time already. The latch material might have lost its elasticity. With the speed the new cameras and casing types are appearing, who knows if the manufacturer out there still has the spares … but if there isn’t any to have, one can improvise. Hint: stainless steel wire + pliers + ingenuity!
Cleaning latches and locks: Just use clean water to wash out the mechanism. And when you’re not planning to use the camera case for a longer time, keep it in a dust-free ambient in the shade and at room temperature.
Keep the casing closed and unlocked, so as to release stress from all parts that are normally under tension. It is also a good idea to remove the main gasket from its groove and allow it to relax, rather than having it constantly compressed. You might keep it within the casing, or in a sufficiently wide ziploc bag.
ACCESSORIES & ATTACHMENTS
Most of the camera accessories are used to connect the cameras and/or camera housings to some base, be it a vehicle or apparel. While there are too many to mention, these all are either made of plastic, or a combination of plastic and metal. Such components will accumulate dirt which, of course, should be removed.
Rule of thumb here is to avoid any kind of mechanical scrubbing, solvents, or cleaning media that contain alcohol, benzene, toluene or acids. These change the plastic materials, making it brittle and prone to break. If you need some kind of detergent, just use a dab of a dishwashing gel. Otherwise, pure water at hand-comfortable temperature should be enough.
Cleaning accessories and attachments: These consist of plastic and metal components. All the maintenance this requires is a thorough washing in warm water and, when dried, a slight lubrication of metal parts. Common household silicone grease is also good here.
Apply a layer of grease to the screw tip and then work the screw into their counterpart bushing. That should take care of smooth operation. Never grease any plastic parts, though!
Wipe grease surplus off the metal; what remains should be sufficient. Too richly applied lubricant just collects dirt, hair, lint and sand particles where you don’t want any.
COMMAND PIN ASSEMBLY
Saved the best for last!
Command buttons are strategically placed extensions of camera buttons through the protective encasement, so we can work the cameras enclosed within. The buttons sit on top of metal pins which are sealed by small o-rings around the holes where pins enter the casing.
A biased spring is placed around the pin under the button. This spring has two functions: it returns the button to its starting position against outer, ambiental pressure. More importantly, it also presses down on a small washer or pressure plate over the o-ring, so as to keep it firmly in place during the linear movement of the pin.
The button, pin, spring, plate and o-ring sit in the guiding “well” which protects the arrangement, and ensures that the pin movement is perfectly linear, since its watertightness depends upon it. A guiding well is slotted to let the water cover the o-ring, for symmetrical pressure distribution.
On the inside, the pin is held in position by an e-clip retainer, which keeps it from popping out of the casing. In order to have the command buttons in perfect working order, it is important that the pin moves smoothly through the o-ring without damaging it. Any dirt, sand, mechanical or corrosive irregularity on the pin will let water in and drown the camera.
Button pin command assembly
Cleaning command pins: To properly clean this most sensitive assembly we have to take it apart. Before beginning, let’s make sure we have a clean surface where the operation takes place (I use a tray), one small wooden dowel (I use wooden grill meat sticks), a clean wiping cloth, and small quantity of household silicone grease.
To clean the command pins, best remove the main hatch by pulling its axle out of the hinges, and set it aside. The handling of the camera case will be so much simpler.
Look inside the case and locate the e-clip on the end of the pin. Rotate the pin button so the open end of the e-clip faces you. Press the button halfway in, and hold it there.
Removing the e-clip disassembles the button pin command for maintenance
Push against the e-clip with wooden dowel to force it out of the pin groove. Slowly release the command button, letting the spring lift it out of its well. Don’t let go suddenly, or you may find yourself spending the rest of the day in search of minuscule spring-launched parts!
Note the sides of the pressing plate – remember which side faces the o-ring. Note the spring ends – remember which side faces the pressing plate! Any error here during re-assembly invites danger from water ingress – so concentrate!
Set the button, spring, pressing plate, o-ring(s), and e-clip aside. Inspect the inside of the command button well, and carefully clean that space the best you can. Put the tip of the wooden dowel in the folded corner of wiping cloth, and use this to wipe out any and all foreign matter. Set the casing to the side and concentrate on the other parts.
Button pin command assembly (note the proper part order)! The side of pressure plate shown faces the o-rings.
Button and pin are easy to clean using the wiping cloth. Make sure there are no irregularities in the pin smoothness, and that there are no sand grains, dried biological matter or anything like that in the spring spiral. Clean that out with the sharp end of the wooden stick if need be. Do the same with the o-ring pressure plate.
An o-ring is best cleaned using just the wiping cloth, and then it should be slightly greased with silicone grease. Now this is important: to grease an o-ring, just use slightly greased fingers, making it only grease-shiny. It should be lubricated on all sides, but sparingly. Surplus grease will collect dirt, so “less is more” here!
The purpose of the grease is to ensure the o-ring can move between its plate, the pin, and the case surface. Lubricant does not create watertight sealing – the ability of an o-ring to adapt and move with pressure does!
Before re-assembling the command pin, you should also sparingly grease the bottom of the guiding well, o-ring pressing plate and pin shaft. Just fiddle with the parts in greased fingers, and take care the surfaces are slippery and shiny.
Wash the grease off your fingers prior to proceeding!
Put the o-ring carefully in its place at the bottom of the well. Cover it with the proper side of the pressing plate – it is indented on its o-ring side – and then place the spring over the plate.
Now insert the button pin. It should go through the spring – through the pressing plate – through the o-ring(s) – through the hole in the casing… to emerge inside the case. Keeping the button pressed, turn the casing upside down, so the pin protrudes upwards. Hold it there.
On the end of the pin you should see the e-clip groove. Carefully put the e-clip opening against the groove, and use the dull end of the wooden stick to push it all the way in. Make sure all three points of the e-clip are properly seated before letting go of the button. Push the button several times to spread the grease film over working surfaces. Feel the difference?
Putting the e-clip retainer back in its groove completes the maintenance.
Done! Repeat the procedure with all the button commands of your camera casing.
Don’t fret – once you have done it a couple of times, it will take less time than what you have just spent reading through this Guide!
Generally, you should wash the casing after every diving session, and service the pin commands after every diving season. However, since lubricants are gradually removed with every use of the case in water, the grease will have to be re-applied.
Frequency of cleaning will actually depend upon your frequency of usage, but also dependent upon the kind of watery ambient the camera was used in. You should decide, for it is your diligence and care that lets you enjoy your equipment for a long time.
And then… just take your cam and boldly go where no cam has gone before!
Whenever a new camera is due, it is always a special day. I bet you know the feeling. So when the DHL pickup stopped in front of the house, I was as excited as my doggies, because we all immediately knew that Something from Very Far Away has arrived.
Then I signed for the yellow-red-gray envelope and scissored my way through it to get at the sturdy cardboard box. Inside was yet another, smallish but beautifully made white presentation box, wrapped in a protective bubble sheet. It was solidly sealed in a tight plastic layer. I cut it carefully away to open the box and let the daylight shine upon…
What’s inside the box?
… the new Xiaomi MiJia Mini camera, a.k.a. Mi Action Camera 4K, model YDXJ01FM, sitting amid this perfect piece of packaging!
I lifted the camera with its cardboard spacer out from the box, and underneath was yet another paper spacer containing one battery, and one thin and short USB cable. That’s all?
Nope. There was also a small rectangle of the zigzag-folded piece of paper that I instantly recognized as my always-first Readme – a Quick User Guide.
Printed in Chinese ideograms. And in… nothing else.
Twenty seconds of fast-forward around the frustration…
Closer look
I could clearly feel my blood pressure rise, attempting to overcome the weight pressing down on my patience valve. How on Earth am I going to read this Guide? And then I thought, maybe I should trust my instincts. Just discover how to switch the cam on, and with Lotsa Luck maybe hen-peck my way deeper? Maybe I can find some tongue that I comprehend before I click, touch, or swipe something wrong and turn the camera into a paperweight.
Truth be told, first I had to really admire the cam because even while it’s still just a piece of dead hardware, it definitely is one beautiful product. I know you can see the MiJia Mini on about zillion other pages, but let me try and convey just my personal impressions.
Design & Quality
Xiaomi MiJia Mini is really small, bordering on dimensions where the size of my fingers gets in the way of operating it. The black camera sides have fine sandpaper texture that offers good grip on all four lateral sides. Front camera plate is also anthracite, in the powder-like matte finish, while the whole back surface is made of glass. Width vs. height ratio of the camera’s round-cornered shape is roughly 16:9, which is quite an elegant form in itself.
The cam’s optical system is recessed in a sturdy metal shark skin-textured ring which is very grippy, although it is not meant to be manipulated at all. However, if MiJia ever decides to create some kind of quick-attach accessory (like an attachment hoop for dash cam use), this surface would offer excellent friction. Consider it one donated idea.
While at that, it is obvious that some sort of lens cap would be useful to shield the optics from fingerprints, or mechanical damage. Such a lens cap is missing for now, but if MiJia produces the thing, it should be made so that it hinges at the ring encircling the lens tube. It would be very practical to quickly flip the lens cap open or closed. Consider it another donated idea!
There is a LED indicator on the front plate. It shows red when the camera battery is charging, blue when the cam is operating, white during data transfer, and orange when you’re halfway through the battery capacity. One more red LED is topside, by the main and only button.
This single large metal button is recessed into the top surface, functions as Power On / Off, and also Shutter / Record command – both photo or video, camera mode dependent. Later I found it was more capable that that!
Also topside, there is one of the microphones (the other is below the USB port) listening through a single hole. A row of six holes above the lens is where the speaker speaks from.
The USB port on the left side has a sliding cover, which is one welcome feature against the lint-in-connector problem. On the camera underside, another cover hides the battery and microSD space. This cover slides out and springs open, but only if you press at the arrow-marked spot which is actually a small, elegant lock. Otherwise, it won’t budge.
An ¼” standard tripod bushing in chromed metal situated in the optical line under the lens and the cam data imprinted on the battery cover conclude the camera underside inspection.
Camera in action. Small tripod is also an MiJia product.
The touchscreen monitor is a 2.4″ LCD with a resolution of 960×480px; the largest among all the similar action cameras to date. It functions as a good touchscreen that you touch and swipe to pick among various settings.
This is sufficient for setting things up and controlling the frame, but don’t look for extra quality in color, or very good visibility in the strong light, though the monitor light intensity is adjustable among Normal, Medium and High.
Specifications
[go_pricing id=”xiaomi_mijia_mini_4k”]
App
There is a QR field in the Guide which lets you open usual sites to download the Mi Home App, from Google Play (Android) or App Store (iOS). The App lets you connect your phone to the camera’s WiFi and offers a remote user interface that enables you to change several settings, to start / stop recordings, and to view photos or videos.
Frankly, I delight in using my cameras out of hand rather than overloading my phone with yet another program to deplete the meagre power that the phone battery has, so I am skeptical about any app right from the start, but I downloaded it anyway for testing purposes.
I tried it and it wouldn’t work with my phone (Android v.6), so I scrapped it. But experiences usually vary. Perchance you’d need this App, in which case you should visit the above links.
Quick start guide
What I got with the camera was a strip of folded paper printed in Chinese ideograms. There are several neat camera drawings where all relevant parts are number-marked. Still, it was of no use to me. Why is it a problem to add small, multi-language Manual with the product?
Firmware
To put it succinctly, any Manufacturer’s website should have Guides, Manuals, and Firmware on display and available right under the product photo, but that is not understood – which is one real mystery. So I traveled the net far and wide, to finally stumble upon a site where I found new cam Firmware, and enough sensible data to bypass the pretty leaflet. Kudos to the author who saved me with these instructions! The least I can do is make it known here too.
NOTE: You always update any camera firmware at your own risk!
– Download the firmware file firmware.bin (v0.6.9.2578) – Put the firmware.bin file into the root directory of an empty, FAT32-formatted, high-speed memory card. – Verify the camera battery is full. Turn camera Off. Put the memory card into the camera. – Turn the camera On. The camera will boot to a prompt screen in Chinese. Touch the button on the right side of the screen to confirm the firmware update. – The camera will power off and flash its lights for 1 – 2 minutes. When the firmware update is complete, the camera will reset. – Once the camera has reset, swipe downwards from the top of the screen. – Tap on the Settings (leftmost) icon and scroll all the way to the bottom of the Settings menu. – The Language Selection is the third option from the bottom of the list. – Select English. Confirm. Your camera interface is now in English.
So after having the Firmware* updated, I found the Settings option for the Language Change. The camera interface became alive, and bristling with options that I could actually use!
MiJia: please add a leaflet in several popular lingos which first points the buyers of your cameras to where and how the interface language can be changed! This proved to be of top importance, because it opens all the other locks and limits. Since there is a Help file already in camera (!), all cam operations quickly become familiar – and efficient.
(* See also another link in the Erik’s comment below!)
First Attempt
The interface via the cam’s touchscreen employs swipes and touches to move through the numerous options available.
Swipe downward from the monitor top to reveal four basic menu symbols that stand for General Settings, WiFi, Monitor Lock, and Power Off.
Swipe to the left to check your recordings, and to the right for photo and video options. Tap at the SliderSwitch symbol in the lower right corner of any mode, and a submenu for that mode will let you tweak all the mode-specific things in there.
Long story short, once the interface language became readable to me, the rest was really easy, because this piece of software is very well conceived, and intuitively quick to use.
MiJia Mini mounted on an articulated support arm. Learn more in our “Accessories” here about this handy item.
Video Quality
Video options let you control Resolution (4K @ 25fps, 2.5K @25fps, 1080 @100/50/25fps, 720 @ 200fps), Quality (Superfine, Fine, or Normal), Lens Distortion Correction (On or Off), Mic Mute (On or Off), Metering Mode (Spot, Center, or Average), EV (0, plus or minus 0.3, 0.7, 1, 1.3, 1.7, 2), WB (Auto, Incandescent, Sunshine, Cloud, or Underwater).
Then there is a Timelapse Video, where you can pick Intervals (0.5, 1, 2, 5, 10, 30 and 60 sec), Video Length (6, 8, 10, 20, 30, 60sec, and 2 min), Resolution (4K@25fps, 2.5K @ 25fps, and 1080 @ 25fps), Quality (as above), Lens Distortion options (as above), Stamp (Off, Date, Time, Date & Time), Metering Mode, EV, and WB as explained above.
You might enjoy Slow Motion Video by mastering control of Speed (2x – 1080px, 4x – 1080px, 8x – 720px), Quality, Lens Distortion, Metering Mode, EV, and WB as already described.
There is the option to Loop your records, where new records overwrite old ones. You can set the Video Length (1 thru 30 min), Resolution, and other already described variables.
Shooting Video+Photo is possible too. Things controllable there are Interval (from 5 thru 60sec), muting of the microphones, plus the choice of above-described options.
As to the quality, see for yourself. I think daylight footage is very decent, considering, but night shots are not what this cam has been made for. Still, since daylight actions prevail…
Photo Quality
Photo Menu lets you select Aspect Ratio (16:9 or 4:3), Output Format (JPG or JPG + DNG*… yes, this puppy also records RAW!), then all the other things, plus Shutter (Auto, and from 1/60 thru 8 sec), ISO (Auto, or 100, 200, 400 and 800), also Color (pick among Standard, Bright, Artistic, Film, and Classic).
Self-timer called Timer lets you choose between 3, 5, 10 and 15sec. Burst Rate can vary from 3, 5, or 10 pics per sec, 10 pics in 2 secs, 10 pics in 3 secs, and 30 pics in 6 secs.
And there is also the Timelapse Photo mode, where, similarly, you pick the interval, aspect ratio, lens distortion correction, stamp, metering mode and the usual rest of said options.
Photo quality is very good, except for a slightly annoying delay between pressing the shutter and a photo being taken. It’s conceptual, but there you are. Never forget the camera price.
* DNG stands for Digital NeGative file and is also considered to be a RAW image file. It is Adobe’s proprietary image standard that was created to store image data in a generic, highly-compatible format, unlike RAW files that have specific formats based on manufacturer and camera type.
Lakeside scenery photographed with MiJia MiniSame scenery with “duck value”, photographed with MiJia MiniActual size (1:1 crop) from previous scene (photographed with MiJia Mini)Pretty accurate rendition of color (daylight, interior). Photographed with MiJia Mini.Interior, fluorescent light (auto WB). Photographed with MiJia Mini.Outdoors (LED streetlight) + fluorescent inside. Photographed with MiJia Mini.
UPDATE 09/11/2017 – Adding four more photos made with MiJia Mini:
Taken in low light, so it needed some de-noising for personal taste… There were no other changes, bar the reducement of image size, and a watermark added.With the rectilinear correction Off, some Fisheye effect is showing. Unedited in any way (save size reducement and watermark).Unedited in any way, save image size reducement and added watermark.Shooting against the light; the camera manages very good, considering its wide angle lens and fixed aperture. Not edited, excepting the image size reducement and adding of a watermark.
FOV and DOF
The Field Of View seriously affects Depth Of Field (a.k.a. Depth Of Focus). Sometimes it is a problem, like when one wants to have blurred backgrounds. At other times it might be a sort of blessing, like when you want some simple, rugged optical system that can withstand rough usage. Exactly these features are paramount in action camera optics where there are no moving parts to break down or go out of alignment.
As a rule, the wider the FOV (the lens input angle) the longer the Depth Of Field (the lens ability to render near and far objects sufficiently sharp). Typically, the long DOF occurs with Fisheye lenses, and the shallow DOF is characteristic for telephoto lenses. Another factor influencing DOF is the Aperture (f-number), but you may disregard it since action cams have a single, constant aperture value.
While faraway objects recorded with a wide-angle lens will be sufficiently sharp, sometimes you’d want to know just how close you can approach your objects, and still have them rendered sharp. Or, what’s the minimal distance for any particular optical system before the images become blurry? Simply do this test.
Set several objects up at measured distances from “ground zero”, which is the point of view (POV) where you hold the cam while photographing. Make a few photos of the scene, and determine where the unacceptably blurry zone ends. That would be the closest distance between your camera and any object you’ll want to appear sharp in the picture.
Bear in mind that every action camera with different FOV and/or f-number will have a different DOF, and its sharp zone will begin at a different distance from the camera. Things will also change somewhat if your near objects happen to be in the middle of the framed scene. In short, these things need to be experimented with before committing oneself to some serious projects!
Finding minimal distance…
Sound Quality
Quite good, as far as I can tell across the range of tonal and noise frequencies. I also wanted to record the wind over bare cam’s mics, as certain action soundtracks might suffer from such noise. Best listen for yourself to the sound recorded in the short footages below:
Battery Test
Several test recordings were made outdoors. I did the recordings at a setting of highest resolution and also at the highest frame-per-second rate. In all tests, the monitor and WiFi emitter was constantly set to ON, so as to force the highest level of energy spending. The battery was charged in-camera, using a Tesla smartphone charger.
This camera battery at 1450mAh is quite capable, as action cams go. It is good for ~90 minutes of 4K recording, or for about 120 minutes of 1080p recording at 60fps.
Charging the battery with any typical smartphone charger featuring 5VDC / 1A output took about 100 – 105 minutes. I also used my smartphone cable that has the same USB connector. It made no difference; neither with the charging nor with data transfer.
NOTE: the charging / depleting values are never absolute since there are variables that influence the tests, such as ambient temperature, internal temperature, usage with or without protective housing, specific charger, production batch, also whether the monitor, WiFi or Bluetooth are Off or On, etcetera.
Waterproof Case
There was none at the moment of this writing but…
UPDATE (thanks to Erik’s comment below). There seems to be an adequate case made for this camera, though. On eBay it is described thus: (c/p)
Description:
[What you are viewing is a] Waterproof housing Case specially designed for the latest Xiaomi Mijia 4K Mini Action Camera, the housing case is upgraded to support 45m waterproof, it is a must for a diving enthusiast.
Features: (comments in italic added by author)
Compact, Light and Portable (this much is true) Allows your Xiaomi Mijia 4K Mini Action Camera shooting underwater down to 45 meters to discover the world of the underwater (this is true, even described in this inimitable way) Control freely as you want underwater (Not quite. But there is a way to change certain things) Around rubber ring for excellent sealing effect (… and it does not look like o-ring, so…) Made of premium acrylic plastic (Hmm… as “premium” as all the other similar cases) Ideal for diving, surfing, snorkeling, skiing, yacht or other activities (true)
2. I have acquired a casing for this camera. and you can read about it here!
3. Simplicity is a good thing… Generally true, but not always. That’s what I thought about the touchscreen oriented camera with one single button available when it is enclosed in its watertight casing!
And then I played around in the menu named “In Housing Mode”, and found out that you can yet use that single command button for other things. Namely, in that mode the long-press will open the whole list of other options, such as Video, Timelapse, Photo, Photo Timelapse, etc., and you can loop through those options using short-press command.
Of course, any special setting within any of the options mentioned should have been set up before (e.g. timelapse intervals, or photo ISO value, etc.) but the changes, though limited, are still possible. The last option in said mode is “Off”, thus replacing general function of the long-press when “In Housing Mode” is Off.
This is one of the most comprehensible use of a single-button command I have seen yet.
Summary
Xiaomi Mijia has a 1/2.5″ 8MP Sony Exmor IMX317 sensor that looks through 7-element camera lens which has a FOV of 145° and an UV filter built right in. A Bosch gyroscope and 3-axis-accelerometer take care of 6-axis electronic image stabilization that is active when the camera is turned on (actually you can’t switch it off).
The images can be corrected rectilinear which is one among many user options, so the straight lines of objects appear straight in the image.
Photo and video files are processed by Ambarella A12 processor that is also used in some other action cameras, like several models produced by SJCAM, ThiEYE, or Hawkeye.
To conclude: the Mi Action Camera 4K is an almost excellent device that could be made better, merely by taking into account the things listed as Not Good. To my taste, it should have been built into an at least weatherproof case. This is supposed be an action camera, isn’t it so? Well, most of the action worth recording occurs in the Great Outdoors and an action cam should be able to shrug off the most adverse conditions out there!
MiJia… Please, just build the same quality right into an underwater casing. No middle box.
Or more simply: do away with leaky boxes forever, and you will be on top of the tree!
Good things:
• Very good price • Neat manufacturing • Relatively large battery • Quality optics and sensor • Useful and speedy interface • Many options and sub-options • Very good design, excellent finish • ¼” standard metal tripod bush in optical axis
Not Good things:
• No protective Lens Cap • No accessories with Camera • Hard to find crucial FW updates • Insufficiently clear web presentation • Hard to find Language Change option • No extensive User Manual in many languages • No half-click in trigger (= delayed photo shooting)
