Category: AnyCubic

Anycubic – a company competing with the low-cost printer companies like Anet and Tronxy. The Kossel is a Delta printer with no heat bed. I thought owning one would be great because I heard they print very well at high speeds.

I have not found this to be true. I am reviewing the Pulley version. There is also the Linear version which uses linear rails instead of the wheels on the plastic carriage and there is the Linear Plus which has a larger diameter but smaller height. Linear rails are said to be better and it does cost more but I don’t have experience with linear rails, so I don’t know for sure. The pulley version does move smoothly and quietly. If you’re interested in differences between these versions you can check our AnyCubic comparison.

AnyCubic Kossel Technical Specification

The table below shows technical specification for AnyCubic Kossel.
[go_pricing id=”anycubic_kossel_pulley”]

Unboxing:

The box isn’t that big and it was packaged well with foam to prevent damage in shipping. Like most kit printers the Anycubic Kossel has many parts. It is intended for people that like to build. It may be intimidating to look at but unlike the Anet series printers, this one comes with a well-detailed manual which has easy to follow instructions.

SD Card files:

On the SD card, you will find all the instructions, manuals as well as test files ready to print including 3D Models to try slicing. You will also find the slicer software and the printer firmware. Although it’s best to get the most up to date firmware. Basically, there are no printed guides and a manual, but you have everything to get you started on an SD card.

Assembly

I love building kits of almost anything. This is my 3^rd kit printer. This time I asked my daughter if she would like to help me build it and she said yes. She was a great helper. The build was straight forward and easy to assemble.

There were a couple things the company needs to change and if not I recommend anyone ordering this printer to add them to their order. One is proper T slot nuts. The ones the supply only fit one way and that one way isn’t very secure. Even if it raised the cost of the printer it would still be worth it. See figure 1A.

The second thing they should supply is a cable tie down. These can’t cost more than a fraction of a cent. See figure 1B. This simple tie down can keep the wire from breaking off the heater block and/or thermistor or keep them heater core from pulling out of the block. Which can prevent it from burning something and possibly catching fire.

Getting the 2020 extrusions to slide onto the plastic corner pieces was a bit tricky but it may be that I did it wrong but with proper T-nuts, it would be much simpler. Other than that the build was pretty straight forward and took about 4 hours with my daughter helping. Normally it would be much faster.

Before you turn on the printer double or triple check the connections to the motherboard. There is nothing worse than turning on the power and seeing the board burn out because you connected something wrong. I have done this on one of my RAMPS 1.4 boards and one of my Anet boards.

I also added a label to each of the three stepper motors X Y and Z in order to make it simpler to level.

The aluminum body of this printer makes it feel well built and could be easily moved while it is printing. Something I wouldn’t try with the acrylic Anet A8 or the A6. Although the cheap T-nuts may make something come off if you did. A buildtak or buildtak type surface included for the glass. More on that later.

After building the printer you need to update the firmware. There is a download link in the manual. This is done with the Arduino software. The firmware is a version of the open source Marlin firmware. This firmware is popular and used on many printers and most DIY printers. Easy to update but lots to learn if you want to customize it for yourself.

Print Quality

Build quality and looks don’t mean anything if the printer doesn’t print well. My first print was the calibration cube. It is used the configure the DELTA_DIAGONAL_ROD. See page 19. Leveling the delta is a bit tricky if you follow the guide book. So I found this Youtube video. I spent more than a day leveling the bed before I found this video. It was very helpful.

I then printed the popular benchy which is aptly named after the word benchmark. It shows how well your printer prints certain things like lettering, circles, and bridges. The benchy turned out very well and comparable to the more expensive printers. The benchy is printed with the supplied roll of black PLA which doesn’t normally come with the printer. I assume it was supplied for the review.

After seeing how well it printed I decided to try an upgrade piece (see Upgrade “Top Caps “). This stuck so well to the buildtak surface that it broke trying to remove it. I decided to flip the bed and print with tape on the glass.

I will be removing the buildtak and tape to print directly onto the glass with hairspray. I like the idea of seeing the mainboard through the glass and will install LED’s to make it look cool.

PETG

Without the heated bed the filament types are limited to PLA and PETG. The next prints I printed were bearing mounts for the printer I’m building.

The PETG is very glossy but strong and stands up to heat as it’s printed at higher temps like ABS. So if you are building a printer you intend to enclose it’s best to use higher temperature filaments to prevent warping.

Flexible Filament

I knew my next print would fail but I gave it a try anyway. (eBay link) TPU Sain smart flexible filament. It got wound up on the extruder gears. The flexible filament is difficult to print with. Even at slow speeds.

PLA

I went back to PLA to print parts for this printer I found on Thingiverse. See Upgrades and modifications below. I printed top caps to cover the belt pulley wheels for each of the three corners. I also printed motherboard supports. But to install them I need to unplug everything from the board.

Famous 3D printing Youtuber – Muse created a tolerance test that you can print. It has parts with gaps set at .5, .4, .3, .2, .15, .1 and .05. basically, you try turning each one until you can’t and the smallest number you can turn is your tolerance. Then you know what tolerances to put into your models or which models you can print from the internet. This delta can print with .3 tolerances but it could improve with more setting changes.

The next print is one I have been meaning to print for a while. It is the Adalinda: The Singing Serpent. This is popular and is included on the Prusa MK2 included SD card. My 16 year old loves it. He is into dragons.

The last prints are the rod supports. You need springs to use them. The small 10mm springs I used didn’t hold up when printing to the outer parts of the build plate. So I switch them to 14mm springs.

After attempting the larger lower motor caps I realized the bed isn’t as level as I expected.

So I went to Thingiverse looking for an auto level sensor. The inductive sensors need a metal bed to work and are typically 12mm in diameter.  The capacitive sensor is 18mm in diameter. I like the glass bed so I had to make my own sensor mount.. The ones that do hold the 18mm ones don’t look like they will hold to the extruder and would be below the nozzle, therefore, aren’t useful on this printer.

ABS

ABS is popular because if you print something that has to be out in the sun or hot area it won’t warp without extreme heat. PLA would warp easily. But ABS needs a heated bed and power supply so this printer will not print ABS without that upgrade which you can find on sites like.

Software

Cheap printers don’t come with company built software so they include open source software like Cura and Slic3r. They work well and get updated regularly.  I like and use both of these but there are much more. There is also a Prusa edition of Slic3r which they build specifically for the MK2 and their 4 filament add-on.

AnyCubic Kossel Delta – Upgrades and modifications

These are some of the printer modifications from the community I would recommend. All of these upgrades can be 3D printer on your Kossel.

• Top Caps
• Mainboard holder
• Auto Level Holder 12mm
• Bottom Caps
• Kill Button
• Rod Spring clips

Upgrades I have not made yet

I haven’t printed any of the following upgrades, but you might find them handy, depending on the printer setup you’re aiming at.

The base extender is good if you decide to do the heatbed upgrade.

Holders and Mounts

• Top mount spool holder
• Tool holder
• Table Spool Holder
• Cable Holder
• Cable holder
• Base Extender
• Pulley Enforcement

The base extender is good if you decide to do the heatbed upgrade.

Bed Level

• Bed-levelers

MOSFET upgrade

• Mosfet mount

A Mosfet is also recommended if you do a heatbed upgrade

• Buy mosfet expansion

Coolers

• Stepper Cooler
• Part Cooler
• Tool Holder

Valuation, pros and cons:

Print Quality

Besides the tolerance being so large (.3 isn’t so great) this printer does print well. Most printers now days do and I can only see it getting better as time goes on. Cheaper and better. Which makes me wonder how some companies get away with charging so much.

Build Quality

The all aluminum frame makes this printer feel solid and quality. If it wasn’t for the cheap T-nuts I would give it a higher grade.

User interface and Navigation

This printer has the same interface as my Anet A6 which is hard to fine tune specific settings or move the axis with precision. That’s because the knob turns the menu values 3-4 at a time.

Value for the money

This printer is great value for the money. Even if you have to update the T-nuts yourself this printer is still cheap. And there is a growing Facebook community that is willing to help with any problems you may run into.

Final judgment

Pros:

Cons:

Where to buy AnyCubic Kossel?

Here are some stores which sell this 3D printer and it’s spare parts or upgrades.

Anycubic 200mm Delta MK2Y Round Heatbed with Cable

Check Prices

Amazon.com

Conclusion

Delta printers are supposed to print at faster speeds, but I found any faster than 30mm/s and my prints would fail. I will have to do more research into why that is. They are very hard to level so I would recommend an auto level upgrade. I will be doing that after this review.

It does have a nice build volume if you need to print taller things. So would I recommend this printer?

Not as a first printer. I think if I had this printer as my first printer it may have turned me off of 3D printing. Well, maybe not because I love it so much.

I still need to add the auto level and that might change my mind but as stock, I would tell people to start with a cartesian printer first and buy a delta as a second or maybe a 3^rd printer.

I will update this review after I get the auto level working. My opinion may change. As of now, I can only print small items as the y corner of the print is too high and no matter what I do it doesn’t seem to change. This isn’t something someone new to printing should have to struggle with. There are also bed level parts you can print from Thingiverse but I don’t know how well they work and they also take away some of the Z axis height. I’m trying them also.

If you have already purchased this printer or are up to the challenge or must have a delta printer, then come join our facebook group. So far everyone seems polite and willing to help.

AnyCubic i3 Mega

I was first introduced to AnyCubic i3 Mega while I was searching the difference between the AnyCubic printers. After seeing it’s interesting features and affordable price, I decided to review it. In this review, I will test its print and build quality, stability, ease of use and many other things.

• Full metal made frame
• Auto-level
• Filament detector
• Resume from outage
• Touch-screen

Quite honestly, the printer itself picked some very good reviews online and at the first glance, it really seems like a good cheap 3D printer for beginners. But is it all that good? Let’s find out.

AnyCubic i3 Mega: Technical Specification

The best way to familiarize yourself with a 3D printer is to take a quick look at the technical specs of the product. In the table below, you’ll be able to see most notable features and characteristics of the AnyCubic I3 Mega.

[go_pricing id=”anycubic_i3_mega”]

Unboxing

The printer comes in a huge 15kg package. Once opened, the box contains two layers of mini foam boxes. These boxes contain all the parts you need to get your i3 Mega up and running. Everything inside is very well protected and packed. Nothing arrived scratched or damaged.

What I really loved is that AnyCubic provides not only a 1kg roll of PLA filament but also spare parts. Incredible. I am so pleased that they included an extra limited switch, gloves, spatula for removing the prints, but also bunch of tools you’ll need to assemble or disassemble the printer. One of my favorite things added is a spare hotend.

The manufacturer paid special care that you have parts in case something brakes, so you’ll have zero investments if some of these things stopped working.

So what’s exactly inside the box?

• 1x AnyCubic i3 Mega base
• 1x AnyCubic i3 Mega frame
• 1x 1k test PLA filament (random color)
• 1x quick start guide
• 1x SD card reader
• 1x 8GB SD card
• 1x USB cable
• 1x spare hotend
• 1x spare endstop
• 1x spool holder
• 1x power cord
• 1x tool set
• 1x tweezer
• 1x pillar
• 10x screws
• 1x scrapper
• 1x glove

Personally I was quite surprised to see some of the tools included such as tweezers (useful for removing extra filament from the nozzle), scrappers (extremely handy when removing printed objects from a surface) and glove (not much useful, but you’ll look like a doc while operating your 3d printer).

Assembly

The best thing about the  AnyCubic i3 Mega printer is that it arrives nearly fully assembled. There are few minor things you’re required to do, which, depending on your previous experience with 3D printers might take from 10 to 25 minutes.

Assembling the printer

First thing first, you should check if all the parts are there. Upon checking, you need to assemble the Z carriage onto the base. There are only 8 screws to screw, and you assembled the printer.

Onto an SD card which came with the printer, you’ll find assembly instructions in PDF. Besides that, AnyCubic has a video guide on how to get your i3 Mega up and running.

Wiring

Even though this part may sound scary, wiring the AnyCubic i3 Mega basically means put the 3 cables into the proper connection.

The problem I had with the cables is that mine were not labeled. So I just had to figure out myself which is which, but that’s not hard at all. Speaking of wiring, the cable management is excellent. All the cables are tidy and neatly secured and the printer looks very clean.

Besides the 3 wires, you also need to put AC cable into your printer. Once connected, you can turn the printer on.

Bed-leveling

An essential thing in 3D printing is learning how to properly level your heat-bed. i3 Mega has an auto-leveling sensor already installed, which makes the whole process a bit faster, though the manual leveling isn’t hard either.

Software adjustment

In order to 3D print an object, you’ll have to “translate” the 3D model into a code that a 3D printer understands – G.code. Software which handles the “translation” is called a slicer. There are tons of 3D slicing software on the web. I’ve always used Cura, it’s free and it worked well for me so far.

On the micro SD card you’ll find the Cura software. The version provided in an SD card is quite outdated 15.04.06. This is something I did not quite like, so later on, I tried with the newest Cura 2.6.1 but I was unable to make my prints work, though I must admit I did not invest much effort into it.

To summarize, AnyCubic I3 Mega works great with supplied slicer – Cura 15.04.06 if you follow the software setup instructions carefully. Making it work with never Cura versions requires some modifications I yet have to figure out.

In this paragraph, I will not talk much about how to configure Cura software, since the instructions manual covers that pretty well.

After adjusting your software you’re ready to print.

AnyCubic i3 Mega: Design and Build quality

After closer inspection of the printer, it was obvious that one of the biggest strengths of the printer will be – well the strength. In other words, i3 Mega is quite rigid, stable and well-engineered machine. It does not feel or look cheap at all. All the wiring inside and on the outside has been well made as well.

The only part of the whole pack, I did not like, is the stick for the filament roll, which is quite bigger than it should be. Well you can always 3D print a replacement for this one, or just put a marker or a pen instead.

Print quality

When you have everything set, initialize a print from a memory card or a PC (depending on if you’re having a 3D printer as an offline device or connected to the PC). Instructions on how to start print can be found in the instruction manual.

On the card, there’s a test file which already has been sliced so you can print even before you

First Print

On the card, there’s a test file which already has been sliced so you can print even before you adjust the software, right after you’re done with leveling the bed. This first print turned out pretty good though some slight overhangs can be found on the top. But for 0.2 resolution, I’m satisfied with how it turned out.

PLA

After printing some of the less challenging stuff and calibration objects, I decided to put the printer to a real test. Hollow Darudi is considered to be quite hard to print figure, especially because it’s printer without any supports. I was quite skeptical, but the print turned out great. I was impressed with the way i3 Mega handled such a complicated figure.

Next, I decided it’s time to print some upgrades for one of my 3D printers from Anet series.

I also 3d printed a frame which resembles the famous Wayfarer from Ray-Ban. You can download the STL file here.

PETG

PETG is a material which melts at a higher temperature compared to PLA. It’s slightly gloosier and easier to bend. In order to sucessfully print PETG, you’d have to put the hotend temperaure to 230-240 °C and slow down the printing speed slighty.

I used the 235 °C and 70 °C for the heated bed, and 30mm/s speed. All other settings were the same as in the instruction manual. Results were great. However the adhesion of the PETG is even stronger, so was very hard for me to remove the objects from the heated bed.  Below you can see some of the PETG prints I made.

Here’s the link to the PETG filament I used in this test. I am very satisfied with how it worked and would recommend it.

WOOD

The wooden filament is not 100% wood. It’s actually a mixture of some wooden elements and the PLA. It prints the same way as the PLA. This was my first experience with wood filament and I was shocked with how well the prints turned out. I used the same recommended settings and in my opinion wooden figures turned out better. This is probably because the temperature was about right for this type of filament.

The only complaint I have when it comes to how wooden filament works with AnyCubic i3 mega is adhesion. Again, it was very hard to remove the figures from the build plate and since the wooden filament is slightly softer compared to the PLA I used, the damages caused by the spatula are obvious on first few layers. This is quite visible on the calibration cube and the Marvin leg.

Like most of the 3d printing enthusiasts printing with wooden filament, I wanted to print out a Baby Groot, a fictional superhero appearing in the Guardians of the Galaxy. The print came out amazing, even though I re-scaled its size it down by 60%. The figure was printed in whole, not in parts, with no supports.

I used this wooden 3D filament and I highly recommend it.

FLEXIBLE (TPU)

Quite honestly, I did not expect flexible filament can be printed on this printer. The reason for this is a Bowden setup which printer uses. The rule with cheaper 3d printers is that if a 3D printer has a Bowden extruder, it will either not be able to print TPU, or it would require modifications.

Without much hope I put the Flexible filament into an extruder. I was shocked when it began printing without issues. I realized that AnyCubic i3 Mega can print flexible filament with no modifications, right out of the box. There were no jams.

The particular flexible filament I used is SainSmart TPU 1.75mm.The end results were quite good. There was some stringing on the figures, but usually strings like that are normal for TPU filaments. I’m sure though that it can be reduced by tweaking settings.

In order to print the flexible filament, you’d have to adjust the hotend temperature (for the filament I used, temp range is 200-220°C). Additionally it is recommended to reduce the printing speed. I set my printer to 10 mm/s for these models.

User interface and navigation

You might not know, but on this site, we also test action cameras. We love user-friendly action cameras with an LCD screen. This is my first 3D printer which has a touch screen navigation. I must admit it’s quite simple and easy to use. Just like with tiny action cameras, the touch screen helps a lot.

My only complaint is that an LCD screen is not the most responsive one, so sometimes you’d have to put more pressure or press twice.

As far as the navigation goes, the design of the interface is simple and it won’t take long before you get used to it.

From the user perspective, i3 Mega is the remarkably user-orientated 3D printer.

New Ultrabase AnyCubic i3 Mega

As I was finishing this review, AnyCubic released the upgraded version of the i3 Mega called AnyCubic i3 Ultrabase. It is absolutely the same printer, but it has an improved hotbed and has no auto-leveling sensor. They also moved the filament sensor, which is a big plus. Basically with ultrabase edition they solved some of the issues.

The AnyCubic i3 Mega ultrabase can’t be easily found online under that name. The reason for this is because they want to replace i3 Mega with i3 Mega Ultrabase. It is possible that even if you buy the regular Mega, you’d get an Ultrabase, but to be on a safe side just ask the seller you’re buying from if it says Ultrabase on the heated bed.

Here are some stores where you can find AnyCubic i3 Mega Updated Ultrabase version

UPDATE : The ultrabase platform is now sold separately as well, so the previous version owners can easily upgrade. You can check it out here.

AnyCubic i3 Mega: Final thoughts

If I could describe this printer in a single world, that would be – reliability. From the moment I unboxed it I haven’t had a single major problem with printing, which was not the case with my previous 3d printers.

I am really impressed with the metal frame which makes the whole printer quite stable. It works right out of the box, it’s very easy and fast to assemble it. The instruction manual was quite good, though I think they should make a video about auto-leveling as well. Furthermore, I’m impressed with the cable management and features like filament, auto-leveling and outage sensor.

One thing that I really did not like sort of a BuildTak surface the printer has. Even though it makes layer adhesion work remarkably, it’s sometimes extremely hard to remove the printed objects from it. If I would have to nit-pick, the spool holder could have been better and if I was a designer of the printer, I would’ve put the filament sensor onto a printer, not on the filament holder.

Personally, the build volume of the printer might be an issue for some, though personally for me it was more than enough. Recently large print volume appears to be a trend, so i3 Mega is slightly smaller than some of the competitor printers which appeared on the market in similar price range.

Pros

• Stable, rigid and firm build quality
• Easy to assemble
• Great print quality out of the box
• Prints multiple materials without any issue
• Easy to swap between filaments
• Bunch of spare parts included
• Resume from outage, auto-leveling and filament sensor are great features
• Very good and concise user manual
• Extremely easy user navigation thanks to a touch-screen and minimalist user interface design
• Good cable management

Cons

• BuildTak surface makes printed objects very hard to remove from the heated bed. Causes breakages of the figures in some cases.
• Not the most silent printer out there
• Touch-screen is not always responsive
• Filament sensor sometimes gives warnings on low filament level when turned on, even though the filament is loaded.
• Filament sensor position should be on the printer, not on the spool holder (there’s a 3D printable upgrade which solves this)

In conclusion, I wholeheartedly recommend AnyCubic i3 Mega as an extremely well-made, mid-range 3D printer. If you are a complete newbie who can spend around 350$ for this printer, I really think you’ll be satisfied. However, if it’s a bit over your budget, take a look at some of other cheap 3d printers we reviewed. I am quite happy with the printer and I already have plenty of fun projects in mind.

Where to buy AnyCubic i3 Mega?

Here are some reputable stores which sell AnyCubic i3 Mega

AnyCubic is a 3D printing company from China which has been getting quite a lot of attention from the 3D community lately. Company’s focus is the production of 3d printers, parts, and filaments.

On their website, I was able to find out that AnyCubic was founded in 2011. Their founder Bryant began making his own 3D printer after previously spending the entire savings on a MakerBot.

In 2012 they began producing and selling printers. In the next few years, the company was growing, mainly selling their products through AliExpress, Amazon, and eBay.

The brand name was changed to AnyCubic from Drepart Trade Co in 2015. Today, these guys have over 70 employees and 3 main 3d printers with 2 more in development.

In this article, I would like to clear the confusion and present to you all the differences between AnyCubic printers. The printers I will compare in this article are :

• AnyCubic I3 (Pruisa I3 style printer)
• Kossel (Delta style pritner)
• AnyCubic I3 Mega

Before we unveil which 3D printer is better I3, Kossel or I3 Mega, I would like to tell you that at the time of writing this article, all the information has been gathered through the internet. I spent hours researching, reaching out to manufacturer, sellers and user groups to verify and make sure all the data is correct.

That being said, do not take measurements and other information for granted. I haven’t done the measuring of the size, print volume and other important things myself. We will have to rely on official sources and AnyCubic.

Specs: I3 vs Kossel vs I3 Mega

The easiest way to compare these three 3D printers is to put them side by side and look at each product specification.

[go_pricing id=”anycubic_printers”]

AnyCubic I3

I3 is the first ever printer made by the manufacturer. It is based on a famous Prusa i3. The printer is quite similar to a popular Anet A8. I3 has an acrylic frame and is the only of the three which has a direct drive extruder.

Kossel

This delta style printer confused me quite a lot. Unlike the other two printers, this one has few variations. Officially, Kossel printer is available in four versions :

AnyCubic Kossel Variations

• Kossel Linear (link)
• Kossel Pulley
• Kossel Pulley Upgraded (link)
• Kossel Plus (link)

What is important about all Kossel models is that they do not come with a heated bed. This means you won’t be able to print anything besides PLA (which does not require heated surface) unless you buy a heat bed separately.

AnyCubic Kossel Firmware Related FAQs

What programs can you use with the anycubic kossel?

The Kossel buyer’s guide lists down the different software that you need before you can create some 3D print. These include the Repertier firmware, Marlin firmware, Arduino, and a few drivers among others.

The Marlin firmware can be downloaded directly from AnyCubic’s website along with the specific drivers and slicer software for your printer kit. Make sure to download the driver and slicing software that is compatible with your computer’s OS.

How do you update AnyCubic Kossel auto-leveling firmware?

You will have to update the Marlin firmware for this one. You can download it from the manufacturer’s website or from other reliable sources.

Kossel Pulley vs Linear

The difference between the pulley and the linear version is quite simple. Pulley version uses wheels on the aluminum frame to move. Kossel Linear has standard linear bearings on linear rods which it uses to move around.

In my experience, wheels are always much more silent compared to the bearings, but bearings printers are more accurate and stable.

Kossel Pulley upgraded is the same as a pulley, but instead of 3D printer parts, a printer has parts which were manufactured by injection molding, making them tougher.

Kossel vs Kossel Plus

Kossel Plus is a slightly improved version of Kossel Linear with a larger printing volume, nothing else.

• Ø180×300 mm
• Ø230×270 mm plus version

I3 Mega

AnyCubic’s latest release, I3 Mega is their most advanced 3D printer so far.  This model comes in two colors – black and blue.

AnyCubic I3 Mega Features

Besides its metal build quality, easy few minutes assembly and stability it has four features which certainly make it stand out from the crowd.

• Filament sensor
• Auto-level sensor
• Outage resume
• Touch screen navigation

This Bowden type printer will detect when you run out of filament and automatically pause until you insert new filament roll.

Furthermore, it has auto-leveling of the heated bed and will memorize the printing in case of an outage or sudden turn-off. A beautiful touchscreen LCD is responsible for quick and easy user navigation.

AnyCubic I3 Mega Review

Some of the things you can be excited about this printer are that it includes an Ultrabase heated bed, mechanical filament sensor, impressive user interface, SD card, and SD card reader, and most of all produces a decent print quality without costing you a fortune.

However, there are a few complaints raised about this printer as well. For one, the filament spool is said to be of low quality, causing the filament to tangle and ooze out of the printer’s nozzle. Good thing you can use the tweezers and pliers that come with the printer to clean out the nozzle of the excess filament. Other issues included problems with the automatic bed calibration, loose cables, and the noise from the printer.

Final Thoughts on the Different AnyCubic 3D Printer Models

There you have it. I hope this comparison article was helpful. If you want my two cents on which one to get, it’s obvious that the newest I3 Mega has the best features and is able to print plenty of materials out of the box. On the other hand, due to its price tag, it might be a bit over your budget. In that case, based on my research, I would probably go with the Kossel Linear Plus model.

Where to buy AnyCubic 3d printers?

All of these printers are currently on sale on several websites. Some of these retailers have promotions quite often, so make sure to check all the links in order to get the best deal.

• Buy I3 Mega (Official AliExpress Store| Amazon)
• Buy Kossel (AliExpress| Amazon)
• Buy I3 (Amazon | AliExpress)

I would like to thank AnyCubic user group for helping me understand the differences clearer.

Thanks for taking your time to read this. If you have any questions, feel free to leave a comment. If you notice any sort of error in the table or comparison, I’d like to know. Do you own any of the AnyCubic printers? I’d like to hear your experience.  Don’t just read, leave a comment, come on.

Helpful AnyCubic links:

• Official Website
• Official AliExpress Store
• Official Amazon Store
• Facebook Page
• Facebook User Group