Recently I have availed myself to an interesting item which helps me mount any camera to nearly any object, and I want to describe it for Pevly readers which might find it useful.
It is advertised as [length]-Inch Articulating Magic Arm Super Clamp, which can support a DSLR, and of course, any smaller camera, LCD monitor, LED or other lighting units, remote flash systems, etc. On eBay, (for instance, here) it is available in two lengths: 7″ or 11″, and sells for anywhere between $10.- and $17.- per unit (including Free International Shipping).
Camera Clamp explained
The Clamp has pliers-type jaws that can be fixed to objects sized between 1 and 5 cm. Such jaws can also be bought separately and equipped with any extension that has either ¼” or 3/8″ standard tripod screw, as it has both said bushing sizes at the back end of the clamp. But the unit I have acquired already has an articulated arm which suits my usage perfectly.
The articulating arm has two segments connected by finely toothed “elbow” which is controlled with one large handscrew. Both segments end in small ballheads, and each ballhead has an ¼” tripod screw. Typically, one arm end connects to the clamp, and the other to your camera. There are some added pieces which allow you to fix either male or female ¼” equipped gear, also any action camera, by adding the pronged swivel base to the arm’s end.
Works fixed to a willow branch…
The reason the advertisement uses “magic” as a descriptive is the central handscrew. Namely, the articulating arms have internal ballhead-blocking system which is actuated by the same grippy handscrew. This handscrew locks the whole arm in any wanted position!
To use this camera clamp, you should first affix the jaws to any suitable object where you wish the camera to be. Then relax the handscrew slightly to make the arms and ballheads loosely movable. Add your camera to the business end of the arrangement. Bring the camera to proper position, point it to where you want it to look, and just tighten the handscrew. The arm, elbow and both ballheads, are frozen in position. That’s all.
Works fixed anywhere in the car…
There is absolutely no play in the whole unit; no wobbling, no creeping, no nodding. Nothing of the sort. Your camera sits there solidly for hours if need be. I use my (7″) clamp mostly with action cams, but sometimes I’ll use it with my Nikon which weighs almost one kilogram. As far as this clamp is concerned, “same difference”.
To challenge things even more, I have sprayed the innards of the whole mechanism with WD-40, so as not to worry about corrosion when using the unit underwater. Still haven’t noticed any creeping! When I use it as a dashcam support, it is usually fixed to the car seat’s headrest. It just sits there, stoically enduring all vibrations while it holds the camera on the other end safely and securely.
One single thing that required a change was the pliers padding. Originally there were just two pieces of corrugated rubber, glued to the inner side of the jaws. These pads detached from the metal jaws pretty early from the friction forces at this particular spot. So I simply replaced those with two short pieces of garden hose pulled over the jaws ends. This proved to be one much more durable solution. It costs nothing, and plastic pieces are easily replaced if ever these wear out (which I doubt).
So browse the net for this kind of camera support. It is an accessory well worth its price!
Here comes something new from Sony: the RX0 which they tag as a multimedia camera. Looking somewhat like GoPro, it sports a 1-inch sensor which, in itself, is quite revolutionary for an action type camera. It will be welcome to multimedia creators as it offers advanced features and image quality.
Sony RX0 Camera (PRNewsfoto/Sony Electronics)
The RX0 weighs just 96.1g / 3.9oz and measures (WxDxH) about 60.5mm / 2.38″ X 41.402mm / 1.63″ X 30.2mm / 1.19 but it can do 4K video with HDMI output , and also beautiful things like 960fps (!) slow motion, as well as burst shots up to 16fps.
“Up to 960fps super slow motion can be recorded. Image quality approaches Full HD quality at 240fps in Quality Priority mode. Sound cannot be recorded when shooting slow motion and setting conditions of focus, exposure, focus area, frame rate and other settings are fixed when start shooting. Micro SDHC/ Micro SDXC memory card of Class 10 or higher is required.”
All these candies packed in tiny waterproof box means something salivatingly good and expensive in the same go.
Judging by the initial press release, the 15.3 MPx 1-inch sensor looks through a 24mm equivalent f/4 Zeiss lens and the BIONZ X processor takes care of the processing.
“The new RX0 camera features a 1.0-type stacked 15.3 MP6 Exmor RS CMOS image sensor, BIONZ X™ processor and a wide-angle ZEISS® Tessar T* 24mm F4 fixed lens to deliver high resolution and less distortion results for both RAW and JPEG stills and across all supported video formats. It is equipped with an Anti-Distortion Shutter that can shoot as fast as 1/32000 second, as well maximum burst shooting capability at up to 16 fps, ensuring that even fast moving objects are beautifully and accurately rendered. Its small size also makes it an ideal choice for casual shooting, street and travel photography and more.” (Markets Insider)
This is what SONY highlights in describing their new camera:
“The image sensor’s innovations enable various kinds of expression that used to be supported only by pro-use gear.”
“Stacked DRAM memory chip structure allows for unconventionally fast readout that enables superb performance in many respects including super slow motion.”
“Packing professional-class functions to capture captivating images, the strong, compact RX0 gives you the range and freedom to shoot for more inspiration.”
RX0 is rated waterproof to depths down to 33 feet / 10 meters as is, but can reach 100 meters (11Bar) depth with the optional HSR1 casing. The camera should be safe dropped from 6.5 feet / 2 meters, and crush-proof to 440 lbs / 200kg, but you shouldn’t try none of it anyway.
That’s because (based on Sony tests) “Depending on usage conditions and circumstances, no guarantee is made regarding damage to, malfunction of, or waterproof performance of this camera”. In other words, user is likely to be guilty, whatever the conditions. So beware!
Keep it from temperatures lower than 0 degrees C, though – it hates to be in the cold.
You can link up to 15 RX0’s together and operate them via the optional WRC1M wireless transmitter, or via the PlayMemories app. They say one can synchronize and control five units at once, which is great for effects and advanced video scenes.
Since SONY in many ways has a leading role in photo industry, it is easy to expect many others to follow suit, so it’ll be interesting to see which manufacturer will incorporate an 1″ sensor into their products next… Also, will it be accompanied by similar firmware muscle, even if the final product might cost a lot less than the RX0? For, it has already happened in the industry, where the cameras appeared priced ¼th or less than quote original unquote. Leaders are thus always hard-pressed to invent something “new” just to remain on, or at least near, the top.
And while it might be extremely hard to predict anything in the imaging industry nowadays, let me predict that, because of the above, users of action and/or multimedia gear may find themselves living in interesting times, provoked by the very appearance of RX0.
The Sony RX0 should begin shipping in October 2017 for an estimated US$700/CA$900/€800.
Check out these brilliant specifications:
1″ stacked type 15.3MPvi Exmor RSCMOS image sensor
Our postman never rings twice. The system is, he just honks his car klaxon; it freaks our doggies, and then we know who’s out there, by the incredible din they orchestrate.
The new package from Far Far Away has arrived!
It’s a camera that I have eagerly awaited and very much looked forward to exploring. One of the reasons is that SJ company has so far produced a lot of interesting models. I bought the M10+ some years ago, and I still genuinely enjoy using it during my snorkeling swims.
Another reason is, SJCam also had a few unexpected glitches in some of their models, which folks might feel differently about, but to me, it’s the proof that this manufacturer is not afraid to do things which sometimes are not quite simple.
But pushing the envelope gains one an experience, and it always pays. SJCam products get better, and this trend will continue – as long as the wisdom of patience for extensive and thorough testing is kept paramount.
Now lessee… the previous model in the SJ6 series was named Legend, so it was obviously aimed at creating some. This one is SJ6 Legend Air. Is it just a cleverly misspelled Legendaire, or is it meant to hover in the air of legends? Or is it simply airweight? Can’t say which without examining it.
So let’s find out about that fresh Air peeking out of yonder large white box.
The SJCam SJ6 Legend Air camera
What’s inside the box?
There is the camera and its waterproof casing with one touchscreen hatch and a hard hatch. What should be (but is not) one usual accessory with every cam from every manufacturer is a lens cover, meant to shield the lens from scratches and fingerprints: one welcome add-on.
Also welcome is the RF (remote control unit) which can be used with optional “selfie stick” and/or worn as a wrist watch. This little device is optionally available as well, but has been added with the sample for testing purposes.
With SJCAMs, you will find a generous supply of various mounts included, so the package here contains a frame mount, a 360° arched bracket and 360° parallel bracket, the curved and the flat mount, the switch supports 1, 2, and 3, a bicycle mount, and adapters 1 and 2.
The “usuals” conclude the package contents: an USB data & charging cable, the Quick Guide (Manual) booklet, 3M fixing stickers, a square of wiping cloth, and two SJCam stickers that the proud cam owner may wish to display.
SJCAM SJ6 Legend Air accessories – All you need is love included…
Closer look
The camera looks nice and feels great in the hand. The box components fit each other nicely with no noticeable gaps, and the buttons are laid-in flush, so are unlikely to be pressed accidentally.
One obvious thing when first you take the camera out of its package is the overall quality of its build. It seems like made out of one solid piece, the surfaces are grippy and unlikely to slip. The camera sides are corrugated while the front surface is finished in what was once called “leather effect” paint looking like sprayed in relief-forming droplets. Its three buttons sink shallowly, responding in tactile clicks that can be registered even with the camera sounds switched off.
The lens protrudes beyond its mount, which is normal due to its wide field of view, but it is also exposed to careless fingerprint smudges and contacts with the ambient. Fingerprint residue contains various chemical components including fatty acids and cholesterol that can influence the lens surface / coating, so one has to take care in handling to avoid this. To that effect, a simple lens cap has been included, but it can only be effective if regularly used.
This lens cap is made of milky-white translucent silicone compound. While it is one very useful accessory as it is, there are two improvements that could be implemented in its future version. Firstly, it should be black, thus able to block out all light, so it could be used for pixel-mapping procedure which resets hot pixels. And then it should have a line-attaching point on its outside rim, so one could save it someplace other than the pocket and not so easily lose.
You might say the cam and almost all the accompanying parts appear pretty standard. There are no major changes in shape and building principles there as far as one can see. The box-in-the-box concept seems to be still prevalent, although the camera could have easily been constructed right into the water / pressure-proof box. The very “action camera” term points at the fact that it is a device meant for exclusive or prevalent outdoors usage.
Mounts of various kind account for the large part of the package and are neatly manufactured, fitting well together and to each other. One thing I have noticed is that maybe the meshing surfaces of swiveling inter-connecting pieces could benefit from slight roughing; their friction would become better without the need for forceful tightening!
In the meantime, one can take a diamond nail file to those inner swivel surfaces, and achieve more friction with less finger-tightening force. This would be good for various multi-part mounting arrangements that are exposed to a lot of vibration, while the esthetic appearance of the mounts wouldn’t be affected at all. Maybe the manufacturers should look into it!
Just sayin’…
Camera & Casing Parts
SJCAM SJ6 Legend Air Specifications
[go_pricing id=”sj6legend_air”]
Touchscreen
One significant option with SJ6 Legend Air is a case hatch for its touchscreen, an innovation over the standard hard hatch. The central part of the hatch has been replaced by pliable plastic material that transfers capacitive charge to the camera monitor. Due to touch-sensing specifics, this feature works fine on dry land. I found that the touch function responds swiftly and positively in dry conditions… somewhat erratically when the touch door is wet… and not at all under the surface.
Physically, the pliable, soft touch part of the hatch (with the camera it presses against) can withstand the water pressure down to the depth of 3m / ~10′. If there is no camera inside to support it, the soft material might stretch, deform, and become unusable. You should not expose the empty casing sealed with touch door to any outside pressure.
Optional Accessories
I was provided with a few handy optional accessories which are not included in the original packing of the SJ6 Air. You can buy these separately.
RF Remote Control
The RF Remote Control unit lets you issue certain commands to the camera over a distance. It will communicate with SJCam’s M20, SJ6 and SJ7 series cameras via its 2.4 GHz transmitter to a distance of 10 meters.
This nifty smartwatch-looking Remote Control (sized W35 x L35 x H9.6mm) can be worn as a wristwatch, or be clipped to the optional “selfie stick”. The wristwatch band has a hard rubber holder wherein the Remote can be slotted, and similar holder has been molded as an open ring which fits the selfie stick above its handle.
The unit surface has five keys that control the following camera functions: WiFi On/Off, Video, Photo, Burst Mode, and Power Off. As the camera does not have any stand-by mode, you have to switch the camera On manually, while it can be then switched Off by the remote signal. Yes, Remote Power On would be nice, but the circuit to await such a signal would then be constantly drawing the battery power… so a compromise here makes sense.
Remote Control can even be worn as a large finger ring!
NOTE: There were/are two distinctive versions: waterproof, which can be submerged to 10 meters depth, and only weatherproof – usually meaning: safe to use in the rain. When the button markings are black (relief in the button surface), the device is waterproof. If the RF buttons are marked in white, it denotes that it is only weatherproof, but those have now been discontinued in preference to properly waterproofed Remote Control units.
By principles of radio emission RF does not work well underwater*, but will operate even in wet conditions – as long as both the transmitter (remote control) and receiver (camera) are in the air. I have taken my sample to its rated depth while pressing the buttons vigorously to test the watertightness. The unit withstood the test, and there was no water inside. Back on the surface, the Remote worked normally.
Never forget to rinse this device thoroughly in freshwater immediately after every swim in the sea, to prevent damage from dried salt crystals, sediment and biological matter. All that has to be dislodged and washed away!
* After readingthisI’ll have to conduct more extensive tests of RC units operating at 2.4GHz…
Selfie Stick
There is something with this invention that always made me grin, seeing people with a smartphone clipped on top of it, smiling at the box while trying to enframe their faces and features diverse with some background. Somehow, it made me think of various lonelinesses, self-obsessions, networking compulsions, social alienation… stuff like that. And though selfie-sticks nowadays are as usual as spoons, I never thought about actually using one.
And then I got one selfie stick in the extended accessories package, and had a chance for a closer look.
First, let me say that the product is excellently manufactured, all the way from the choice of materials thru pedantry of manufacturing to the ease of use. Its telescoping elements are made of round tubular aluminum segments that have each been stressed along two sides to form interlocking ovals (in cross section). This enables you to extend the segments and interlock them at any length from collapsed 25 cm to fully extended 70 cm, by rotating the handle against the camera-connecting swivel. It holds the camera firmly – there is absolutely no wobbling there.
Remote control options
For added safety, there is a wrist strap attached to the lower rim of the stick handle, but for us folks with “spade-class” hands it will probably need to be replaced for a more spacious loop.
The base of the rubber-coated handle has a standard ¼” tripod bushing made of brass, which is practical for various things, except one: the aluminum tubing and brass inset should not be dunked in saltwater, as the combination of materials might generate galvanic currents that, with prolonged use, eats away the aluminum! In freshwater application (the way I am using it) there is no such danger. Although the aluminum stick segments are anodized in elegant matte black, I have deep-sprayed the unit with WD-40 to keep the water away from metal surfaces (talk about belt plus suspensors thinking!). Still, I would avoid the brine, just in case.
The stick top ends in by now standard three-pronged swivel where two-pronged counterpart accessories attach. The wealth of various attachments allow for many combinations, of course.
Adapter & Filter(s)
Another useful accessory comes in a small round box that looks just like a cream jar, except that the top sticker explains its contents. Its padded interior contains a precision-machined, matte black aluminum adapter that can be push-fitted over the camera lens. The adapter is threaded to accept 40.5 mm screw-in filters (and/or other lens front optical elements). My sample contained an UV (Skylight) filter, good for cutting through the mist or haze, but there is a side sticker on the box that reveals what kind of filters are available in this size.
Optical add-on options
You can thus use the adapter for UV, CPL, ND, Gradient, or Star digital filters, though the choice is limited only by your imagination. There are adapters available for SJ4000, SJ5000, SJ6, SJ7, M20 and M10 cameras.
Cherry-on-top, there is also the spring-loaded lens cap that grips into filter or adapter threads, to guard against accidental bumps, spray and scratches.
SJCAM ZONE App
Excerpt from the SJCam web page: “SJCAM ZONE App with social sharing and post-production tools! The new app for Wifi-powered SJCAM cameras is a whole new experience to the action camera market. Remote control your SJCAM to record some great shots, use the built-in post production tools, and share to the SJCAM world thanks to the built in social sharing platform. Everything is free of charge for all SJCAM users, available on App Store and Google Play store!”
There is more. You can operate your WiFi-enabled SJCams from Android, iOS, or even from the Windows platform. Of those, I have tried it with Android and it works as advertised. Which is to say, hardly more can be expected, right?
Quick Start Guide
A nicely made small booklet of ~10 x 9 cm, presents basic operations in several languages (English, German, Russian and Chinese) and adequate drawings. The back cover has two QR codes which get you the camera’s app, either for iOS or Android. The texts, so far as I was able to check the English and German sections, is fairly correct and to-the-point, while the drawings and description of parts makes it practically self-explainable. If you so prefer, you can also download a .pdf version of the Guide.
Video Quality
The camera has a 2.0″ touch-screen to simplify the setup, and also to see what you are shooting. It is as easy to use as the one on your smartphone.
With SJ6 Legend Air, the company introduces its first SJCAM A9S chipset which, combined with the Panasonic’s MN34112PA 14Mpx sensor manages to record up to 4K at 24fps (interpolated), and up to 2K at 30fps FHD real video recording (2560×1440) in either MOV or MP4 using H.264 compressed video format.
The formats you can choose among are 4K (2880x2160px @ 24 fps Interpolated), 2K (2560x1440px @ 30 fps), 1080P (1920x1080px @ 60/30 fps), 1080P (1440×1080 @ 30 fps 4:3), 1080P (1920×1080 @ 30 fps Super), 720px (1280×720 @ 120/60/30 fps), and VGA (640×480 @ 240 fps).
SJ6 Legend Air optics allow Wide 166° field of view, further modifiable in two more downsteps that SJCAM calls Middle and Narrow. For people which do not like the usual wide-angle lens distortion, there is now an useful function allowing one to shoot rectilinear (corrected) wide angle videos and photos without much fisheye effect bending the straight-lined objects. This also means somewhat less work in post-production editor.
Legend Air has following video modes that you can easily pick from its Video mode menu, right off the touchscreen: Video (normal), Video Lapse, Slow Rec (-2X, -4X and -8X), Video+Photo, Car Mode, and Underwater Movie. Similar choice is available for Photo shooting, such as Photo Lapse, Burst Mode, and all subsequent specs you’d care to implement for any among those.
You can choose whether the camera opens in Photo or Video mode when you switch it on, depending on your prevalent usage, but long-press on the shutter button swaps between photo and video at any time. Considering that the Legend Air only has three buttons for all of its settings and functions makes it very elegant, as long as you remember which button does what in which mode. Since the touch screen is a more than welcome alternative to command buttons, it’ll be good to work the buttons from time to time, just to not forget their roles! Gyro stabilization is working fine. It smooths out the camera vibrations in the video, which is another useful feature, especially when you record in motion. So, using SJ6 Legend Air while running, biking, for FPV or as a dash cam, the Gyro function makes your videos a lot more pleasant to watch.
I have tried to conduct my tests mainly underwater, for a change. Since water is a different medium, the results can show you somewhat more than what you’d see in a dry-land record, especially the way the camera treats the contrast and shadow. Not every time was the visibility excellent, due to seasonal algae-blooming conditions, but you’ll see what I mean…
Photo Quality
You can make photos in image sizes and resolutions throughout its range from interpolated 16Mpx images, via sensor-sized 14Mpx, 12, 10, 8, 5, 3, 2, down to 1.3Mpx. And the cam can do JPEG or RAW, as per wish…
Beside image size, you can vary the Exposure Time (from Auto thru 60 sec), Delay Capture (from Off thru 10 sec), Quality (between fine, normal and economy), Sharpness (normal, strong, soft), White Balance (auto, daylight, cloudy, tungsten, fluorescent), Color (normal, b&w, retro, warm, cool), ISO (from auto thru 1600), EV (from +2/3 thru -2/3), RAW (Off/On)… You can switch the Gyro Sensor ON or OFF, or change the Field Of View (between wide, middle, and narrow), switch Wide Dynamic Range On/Off, apply Distortion Correction, (making picture rectilinear), and use a Time Stamp if you wish or need it in the picture.
In the reed forest (photo taken with SJCAM SJ6 Legend Air)Daylight sample (photo taken with SJCAM SJ6 Legend Air)Anchored at 3 meters for 2 hours; no water ingress.Exploring tight places underwater by using the selfie stick!Baby snake (photo taken with SJCAM SJ6 Legend Air)Leaving the camera to work (photo lapse), fixed to a fishing pole support playing the role of a monopod.(Photo taken with SJCAM SJ6 Legend Air)Fluorescent Light, outside in (photo taken with SJCAM SJ6 Legend Air)Taking care of dark shadows (WDR – Wide Dynamic Range) (photo taken with SJCAM SJ6 Legend Air)
As to the image quality, let me just say that I was pleasantly surprised. The lens system is very good, and regardless of the small sensor and a rather limited ISO range, images appear very good. No doubt, the efficient Gyro sensor adds to the fact. In all, if this cam had a zoom arrangement, it would replace many a P&S camera for everyday use.
I got two extra microphones which connect to the Legend Air via its USB point. These look pretty much the same, except that one is a typical “shirt collar” type, while the other has a bendable cable segment of 12cm, a type usually referred to as “gooseneck”. These mikes have pinch clips you use to attach ’em to clothes – or elsewhere.
Both mikes have 145 centimeters of cable length between mike head and USB connector, and this cable is clad in woven material which makes it extremely pliable; like a soft string. For some reason, the USB connectors at the end of cables are L-formed (at right angle to cable). These connectors, together with the kind of cable protection make the microphones unusable with the new weather / waterproof camera casing which has an extra USB port. More about it later.
However, there are times and situations when I would like to have the camera enclosed and the microphone on the outside… Maybe such an accessory will be available later on, if someone from SJ company reads this…
The built-in microphone can be regulated between values of 10% and 100%, in ten levels from 1 to 10 (in the Video / Volume Menu). Default is set at 8, and I have used that setting in all the records, but you can also listen to the built-in mike recording in the Night Video, where some music was gathered during the drive.
Recording the sound from within the closed waterproof casing generally makes little sense, since soundwaves get to be mightily muted. Raising the microphone sensitivity to the top level (10) won’t help much; thus, some properly watertighted outside microphone would be helpful. By this I’m “putting a bug in SJCAM’s ear”, since the new “USB casing” could be the obvious solution – and not only for underwater sound recordings!
Truth be said, the situation is a tad better if and when you’re using the casing with its touchdoor. Thinner protective plastic layer responds better and to a wider range of sound frequencies, which helps some.
Still, an outside waterproof microphone (perhaps of the kind they build into amphibious cameras) could be a proper future solution. So, c’mon SJCAM! If submarines can listen underwater, surely your cameras can too!
Battery Test
SJ6 Legend Air is powered by a removable 1000mAh 5V/1A battery that is good for video recording time of ~80 minutes (with WiFi On) or ~110 minutes (WiFi Off). Recharging a flat battery, as the specs state, should not take longer than 3 hours. They were right.
The battery was charged in-camera at room temperature (28°C) using Tesla smartphone charger outputting 1A/5VDC. Power-depleting times were measured outdoors with the camera out of its waterproof casing, using the highest resolution and also the highest frame-per-second rate. In all tests the monitor was constantly ON, to force the most energy spending.
Battery charging status
There was no difference worth mentioning between the values stated and actual battery performance, which is good news. Recording time of 80 – 85 minutes usually depleted the battery and recharging time was consistent; 183 to 185 minutes. While charging, there is a red LED signal on, and the screen shows animated battery-charging symbol.
NOTE: Values displayed are not absolute, since there are variables that influence the tests, such as ambiental temperature, internal temperature, usage with or without protective housing, specific charger, production batch, also monitor or WiFi being Off or On, etc.
Waterproof Case
As always, there is this feeling that all camera manufacturers acquire their protective encasements from the one & only manufacturer – the one who hates changes! The only difference to find is in the casing’s dimensioning, the layout of its command buttons, maybe the lock shape, and in certain variety of the way the lens ports are put together. Thus, regarding this camera case, there is not much to disclose. It is able to shield the camera down to 30m / ~100′ – or against pressure equal to 4 kg per cm² (4 Bar) when closed by its hard hatch.
The SJ6 Legend Air case lens port is by default resistant to depth pressure, solidly watertight, and enclosed in black, non-transparent hood shielding the lens against scattered light. Users are strongly advised to regard the port of the camera casing as a part of the cam’s optical system. The casing lens port material is hard plastic, not scratch-proof, so do take care to avoid any contact of case’s port with harder materials, so as not to affect its performance.
Then there is one interesting deviation from the usual. SJCAM offers another housing which has an extra opening on the camera’s contact (right hand) side. Unscrewing the (o-ring sealed) waterproof plug enables you to insert the USB cable right into the otherwise closed encasement and secure it there by a similar plug the cable runs through. It is then weather-sealed as regards the camera casing, while the other cable end is supposed to connect to your computer or charger. This fashion, you can arrange for real long recording sessions in the open, like time-lapse shoots, while the power comes from, say, an outside power bank unit. Nifty!
Sealed USB cable port
The USB casing is delivered with a touch door, which can, of course, be replaced by a hard hatch version. When the cable port is safely blind-plugged, you can use the camera underwater just like in a standard encasement.
The fact that SJCam has actually used o-rings on this specific feature has caused me to add some rant below (aimed rather optimistically at the casing designer), but as regards the reliable sealing principles, I’m glad to see things possibly moving in the right direction.
I’m certain that at one point you’ll ask yourself about the difference between the SJ6 Legend and SJ6 Legend Air. Well, aside from the obvious difference in the name, there are few other things. First among those, the distribution. According to the manufacturer, SJ6 Legend Air will be sold to a limited market, mostly in Europe, e.g., European distributors will have SJ6 Legend Air available.
The traditional B2C websites will not be selling the SJ6 Air. Why SJCAM decided to go this way, remains a mystery. It’s not the first time they released this kind of a limited edition product. Last year they launched SJ5000x and X1000, which were both sold to a limited market.
The difference is also in hardware. Cameras have different processors and image sensors. SJ6 Legend Air has a touch screen LCD at the back, while the SJ6 Legend features two screens; front one for data, and rear one for image.
Take a look at the table below. It illustrates only the differences between the two models.
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Summary
All in all, the feeling is good. I predict you will like this camera. From the neatly put together body, via its features which comprise external microphone support, timelapse operations, motion detection ability, burst shooting mode, slow-motion recording, and gyro stabilization, to the ease of disregarding the buttons in favor of a touchscreen… one can do a lot with this small, but surprisingly able camera. Laurels are not meant to be slept on, but facts are facts.
That said, there were a few things which, frankly, I have found unnecessarily changed. For instance, the quick-release mount piece does not lock sidewise to its shoe as before; the new type locks downward. This means I can’t use it with, say, SJCam M10 counterpart, unless I start by combining the mounting pieces right from the camera casing swivel. While the majority of action cameras have mounting elements that are interchangeable, it really should be de rigueur for one manufacturer to maintain total compatibility within its range of products.
Same goes for USB connector types on their camera end, at least while there are standard operating voltages and/or data transfer speeds. The USB connector issued with SJ6 Legend Air can be dated about 20 years back. Remember that ancient trapezoid profile with bent-in lateral sides? Luckily, it is one type that has always been praised for its rock solid mechanical connection, and I still have several such cables from my old Sony cameras and backup disks.
Nevertheless, many connecting accessory types should finally become and remain standard, even for no reason other than reducing the “cable salad” in our homes!
The new “USB Housing” allows one to connect the encased camera to an outside power source through the special side port. There is also a corresponding USB cable which can be connected and sealed in position. Wouldn’t it be nice if there was also an outside microphone which could be used with it? An(y) underwater casing is severely reducing the sound level (with touchdoor, somewhat less), and an outside mike would be welcome! So maybe I’m allowed to suggest a weather-proofed microphone with plastic-coated cable ending in a straight connector that can utilise the side port? Even an L-shaped small gooseneck mike built into the port seal cap would be an useful accessory to have with this casing! And then there are electrical wet contacts too, have been used 30 years ago for reliable light and flash cable connections at any depth… sea or freshwater… (SJCam – there’s more. Just ask!)
* I was an active diver-photographer for 50+ years, and still am, in an ever more age-limiting way. In my heyday I was quite inventive, always striving to improve both the breathing and the photographing gear I was using. I wish users and manufacturers of underwater cameras would have patience to read this through and maybe use my experience. So please bear with me going off at a tangent here.
Whosoever makes these watertight housings still stubbornly employs the same GoPro-like hatch gasket copy, simply refusing to see that this should be replaced by an o-ring, as its principle has been proven the best – from bathyscaphs and submarines to spacecrafts – and through millions of other serious, no-nonsense applications.
An o-ring is a small thing which has the main role in anything underwater. It moves in response to the raising depth pressure, and adapts its position and shape to seal progressively tighter. The gaskets of the kind implemented with almost all action cameras can’t behave in the same way. To my sorrow, the current gaskets can’t be directly replaced by o-rings until the seal groove of the hatch was re-shaped, though not by much.
I can’t predict how the current sealings behave beyond certain depths / pressures, also after longer usage time. Frankly, I have no way to do full and proper tests to the fail level, so as to determine a water ingress point, to measure deformations of the case, its material resilience and fatigue, or ability to return to its original form. Until such time, we’ll have to, er, trust the Creator.
As for now, at least the command button pins are o-ring sealed. These are standardly placed in guiding / shielding wells, so the pins run straight through the casing hull. A biased spring between the underside of the button and a small metal plate keeps the o-ring around the pin in proper position. The pin is held on its inner end by small e-clip type retaining ring.
The simplicity of this arrangement ensures certain safety of operation, but it is also dependent upon the strength of the spring working in variable pressure ambient. For lesser depths, the spring force outweighs the pressure upon the exposed sealing area surface. With increasing depth the pin command becomes easier to push in, using more spring force to return. In any ambient of variable pressure the rotating command works more precisely, since the parts interact much smoother. In return, the use of weaker springs (where needed) augments the tactile feel of rotating commands, which translates into more exact operating of the device.
The lens port is also one critical part, since it is factually the only surface of the waterproof enclosure that has to be transparent in a very special way. So in order to ensure the light passing uniformly through the whole surface, the best lens ports are precisely polished plan-parallel pieces of hardglass, sapphire glass, or similar scratch-resistant crystal.
Without intermediate box (where the camera’s innards are built right into an impermeable case), the safest way to operate the cam would be by several reed switches on the inside actuated by small magnets from the outside of the casing. Avoiding mechanical commands through the encasement wall means reducing water ingress risk, and removes maintenance.
Such single-case-all-conditions concept simplifies construction, reduces the number of parts (so the costs), and warrants an amphibious usage right out of the package. For now, this is still only my standard personal beef wish for any and all outdoors devices, which is way too slow in fulfillment. There were cameras built that way thirty years ago… Why not now?
Oh, well. Rant off. Maybe some day manufacturers will see it the same way we users do!
PROS
Lots of features in camera functions
Lots of accessories within the basic package
Interesting optional accessories available
Solid construction, aesthetically pleasant design
Lightweight and compact; feels well in hand
Touch function speed (in dry conditions)
Self-intuitive menu layout
Good quality imaging in average light
Acceptable quality imaging in low light
CONS
For a diving camera, there should be a lighting unit within accessory range
30 meters depth limit with hard hatch (should be at least double that!)
New / old type USB connector on the camera end (one of the better, though)
New quick-release mount lock system, limits inter-compatibility
Lens cap should be non-translucent and have a line-attaching point
Conclusion
SJ6 Legend Air is one great camera for small money. Beside its operating qualities, there is a wide range of accessories in the initial package, and also some very usable and interesting optional accessories. You get all the basic mounting elements right with the camera, and only add what you need from the optional accessories range. Good concept plus good product plus good price equals good buy.
Paralenz is an action camera built by a Danish agency Moef, and in short, the divers have created it for diving.
“It is primarily a diving camera made to withstand anything”, says co-founder Kristoffer Kelstrup Sabroe.
Therefore, the camera is built to go down as deep as 200 meters and can withstand being knocked into a rock face without being broken.
“Our target group are specialists in the different sports” says Sabroe.
He goes on to explain that GoPro has developed a very good camera for the wider audience, but Paralenz camera is aimed at the more demanding athletes.
Omitting the monitor has allowed Paralenz designers to apply another form factor, one which is well-suited to resist pressure, as it exposes a minimum of flat surfaces. A Snap-Record function allows the diver to share the experience with a single click. This click is easily accomplished even with thick gloves on, because it was made with diving circumstances in mind. Still, there is a display of sorts, a 0.5” OLED screen.
The cam can go as far down as 200 meters depth as is (no extra casing), and it employs a pressure sensor to detect your ambiental depth. Pressure reading can be used for various purposes, such as ambiental color correction, for which some other action cam might require extra filters. The camera also has a temperature sensor, and combines all these extra data saved in a displayable dive log.
There is a wide range of settings which can be pre-programmed using its app. The app generates a dive profile by adding time and depth to the recorded photos and/or videos. The Paralenz thus acts in part as a dive computer. You can connect the device with the App by WiFi, or Bluetooth. There is an USB-C port, used for charging the battery.
The camera can capture 8MP still images or 1080p 30fps videos for impressive 3.5 hours, and 4K lengths for 2 hours and 15 minutes. All is stored on a 64GB microSD card.
An interesting detail can be gleaned from the view of the cam taken apart (below), and that is the blue selector ring. It seems to employ reed switches (magnetic switches on the inside, and a magnet within the outside ring). Position of such magnet selects/closes one of the switches in the camera, thus dialling its function. This principle has always been the most elegant way of selecting functions in an underwater casing. Avoiding mechanical commands through the case wall reduces water ingress risks – as well as a lot of fidgety maintenance. Same goes for the main switch, judging by its look; it seems to have a magnet on one end, and is probably spring-loaded and lockable in the pressed / activated position.
All in all, the concept is safe & sound, even the multiple o-ring sealing reveals the importance of water safety concerns within this design (as opposed to the majority of contemporary camera encasements). Good thinking, overall!
Crowdfunding
It is no surprise that Paralenz is crowdfunded project started on KickStarter. The creators of the camera had an idea to create a camera specifically for diving. They collected the capital via crowd-sourcing and their project has been backed up.
Technical Specifications
[go_pricing id=”paralenz”]
Accessories
Paralenz arrives with pretty much everything you need to get started. Here’s the content of the package:
Paralenz received a Red Dot Award in 2017 for the design of this product.
WiFi App
Temperature and pressure sensors which are implemented into the camera measure data which is being logged. Thanks to this kind of information, you will be able to see the diving depths, time and temperature.
Additionally, WiFi App will show you the average temperature, underwater time and maximum depth.
One more interesting feature is the “Overall stats” field that shows quite a lot of diving information, such as the longest dive, the lowest and highest temperatures, a number of videos and images taken, and plenty more.
Pricing
The Paralenz underwater action cam will set you back (or push you forward, depending) for €649 (or US$600). See more on Paralenz website, and maybe order one for your next dive!
Summary
Paralenz certainly belongs to a group of a higher-end action cameras. It is intended for divers, but do not be fooled. It can also be used as a regular action camera, only maybe able to endure even more of rough treatment than others.
If you are interested in its video quality, you can take a look at some of video comparisons published on the Paralenz YouTube channel. This camera certainly has lots of quite specific features and target audience, and we will see how the market accepts the product.
NOTE: In the meantime we have reviewed the camera in depth (pun intended!), so you can find out what we have discovered for you in more detail here.
If you are a diver, let us know your opinion on the camera, we’d love to hear your two cents.
Remember the excitement when the postman hands over that somewhat worn plastic-sealed box, reinforced with tactical turns of Sellotape and many important-looking stickers?
Know that specific aura of Distance, that fog’n’dust Faraway scent? Imagine myriad touches of so many hands; all the way from making a thing exist thru bringing it to your address?
Sure you do. Even my doggies are excited, aiming their uncannily acute noses to read all about the package in the way I’ll never even be able to comprehend. Well, the new camera has arrived. Here it sits on my table while I search for something to cut open the package and expose it to the light of destination – on the other side of the World.
Snip, snip, rip…
NOTE: On May 15th 2017, I have been notified that RunCam 3 sales have been stopped. Let’s hope RunCam re-appears with an even better model soonest! Read on nevertheless, as you still might find one – and like it!
What’s inside the box?
1 x RunCam3
1 x Micro-USB Flat Cable
1 x Micro-USB TV-Out and Power Cable
1 x User Manual
There are also some things not mentioned in the manifest. A bonus?
RunCam3 comes in white, hard cardboard box sized 10 by 10 by 6 centimeters. The box is imprinted in elegant, metallic silver and smaller gray lettering. Side of the box shows Manufacturer data and a silver sticker displaying the camera model and control symbols. There are two more stickers. One has a package QR-code (too small for my phone scanner to read) but there is a scratch-to-check field right underneath. The other sticker you have to cut through to open the box.
There is a thinner cardboard profile that keeps this small orange camera in the middle of the package, and under it there is another small box. Within, you’ll find a Micro USB flat-cable, and Micro USB TV-Out & Power cable. I have also found four orange Velcro strips (sized to girdle the cam) and two double-sided stickers, presumably meant to facilitate camera mounting, for it has neither a standard ¼” tripod bush nor any other accessory fixing points. A small package of Silica-gel is in there too, with its usual hilarious DO NOT EAT warning.
Parts explained
Specifications
[go_pricing id=”runcam3″]
Overview
It seems like the range of accessories that come with the camera is quite short. All of the GoPro- or -alike mounting elements are missing. But there are options. Almost all those things are also made by independent manufacturers, and can be bought for small money. What you need actually depends upon your camera usage requirements, which are pretty well-rounded in the Manufacturer’s motto: RunCam; Born for RC Fanatics!
The optional RunCam underwater case (not included / not reviewed) is compatible with aforesaid mounting elements via the usual two-pronged swivel joint on its underside.
The optional RunCam skeletal mounting frame (not included / not reviewed) is needed to physically connect the camera to one’s body or other objects. It also has the typical swivel joint on the underside.
The optional silicone rubber protective frame (not any more produced / not included / not reviewed) seems good for mounting and stabilisation purposes. When I looked for it, there was only an offer to download the 3D printing file and DIY. Shucks! Pret-tee frustrating…
There are another 1.5 milimeters of frustration between RunCam3 and GoPro Session, its nearest look-alike. RunCam3 (L37.5 x W38 x H38mm) and GoPro Session (L36 x W38 x H38mm) are thus different, so you will have to use RunCam’s own and optional mounting frame and dive housing . Aforesaid silicone rubber frame would fit both cameras, though.
These accessories were not sent in for reviewing, so I can’t offer much more than a fleeting comment, but I found that mounting frame and dive housing come with a quick-release lock and two bases to snap on. The bases can be sticky-taped to a variety of surfaces.
Among interesting details there are some which might not be visible upon the first glance: RunCam3 has high-sensitivity dual microphones and an independent audio chip to ensure clearer sound recording. It did generate some question marks you’ll learn about later on.
The camera also has internal shielding enclosures, made to effectively reduce radio frequency interference (RFI) to its transmitter and receiver.
Hi-strength aluminum alloy frontal frame holds a square of Corning Gorilla™ glass, to shield the lens: great idea! This tempered glass plate is an accessory that can be replaced.
RunCam3 would be very practical as an usual dashcam thanks to its image quality and small size – except for the Manufacturer’s warning: IT SHOULD NOT BE USED AS A DASHCAM WHILE BEING POWERED BY AN OUTSIDE SOURCE, because it is detrimental to the built-in battery, and thus a fire hazard!
This got me thinking: would it be possible to bypass the internal battery overcharging when the cam is set to, say, a Dashcam Mode? Could it be powered only by the charger, Dashcam Mode effectively bypassing the built-in battery? So, other Modes could draw from the built-in battery – except for the Dashcam Mode. Is it a question of wiring, or is it solvable by clever firmware tweak? A question to be aimed at designers and developers, methinks…
The fact of the matter is, RunCam3 actually could be used as a Dash camera if it is not powered from the outside source while operating. This means you can power it by its own battery while driving, and re-charge it from the car battery when the camera is not operating. Just make sure to use the properly rated charger (5-17 VDC / 1A)… RunCam3 already has the option to record inverted image, which helps with such usage.
You can also apply the RunCam3 as a web camera on a Windows PC by running amcap.exe. If your Windows version does not already have it, you can download and install it from here.
User’s Manual & RunCam Web Page
RunCam3 User Manual is one refreshingly concise and correctly written booklet printed in English, German and Chinese. Well, I was able to check the English and German versions, but I really had no time for thoroughly checking Chinese… yeah, right! I’m kiddin’…
Initially (before you connect to your smartphone/ tablet via the App), you have to learn:
Powering on Long-press the Power/Shutter button for three seconds. The camera powers on and beeps three times. (By default, camera switches on to video standby mode).
Powering off Long-press the Power/Shutter button for three seconds. The camera powers off and beeps five times.
Mode switching After powering on, long-press the WiFi/Mode button to cycle among the three modes: Video/Photos/OSD (On-screen Display).
Video Camera Status Light: Blue. Press the Power/Shutter button to start/stop recording.
Photos Camera Status Light: Green. Press the Power/Shutter button to capture photos.
OSD Setup Camera Status Light: Orange. Press the Power/Shutter button to browse. Press the WiFi/Mode button to select. OSD makes sense when you have a screen – which requires connection.
Exit the Menu by long-pressing the WiFi/Mode button.
The 9 by 9 centimeters booklet is something you’ll want to keep with the cam at all times, as the camera has no monitor. It talks to you in beep’n’blinks tongue. Every function is always confirmed by its unique number of beeps and by showing either steady or blinking light in blue, orange, red or green! This light is under the Power / Shutter button, and it is all you have. That is, at least until you have the RunCam3 connected via its App to your smartphone. Then it becomes easier.
As time goes by, I should be ranting about font sizes that seem to be chosen exclusively for young eyes… but I won’t. Fortunately there is a PDF version of the Manual where font size can be changed. In the meantime, I’m happy with well written text and clean drawings.
The same standards are found in the Runcam’s web pages but some jump links there do need corrections. In short, both the Manual and web pages show the general attitude and effort invested in correct presentation. Go look for yourself; starting maybe at Web Page Intro…
First Attempt
First things always come, well, first. After quick rummaging through the package to see what all was in there, I polished my glasses and leafed through the User Manual. You know… “if nothing else helps, read the instructions”, but believe me that reading once and right away through the Manual sure is much more effective. And especially so with this kind of camera!
First thing to check was the battery charge. You press the top button to see how the LED light around the button will respond. If there is more than 50% capacity, the green light blinks five times. If charge is less than 50%, the green light blinks ten times. If battery is at less than 15%, the green light goes on blinking. More blinks = less power! Easy!
So I set to check the battery status. The blinking LED revealed the battery was many-blinks, and I connected it to my Tesla smartphone charger outputting 5VDC / 1A. Steady red light confirmed the battery was charging. The Manual says a flat battery is fully charged within 2.5 hours, when the red light should go off.
That is when I noticed that the top button on my sample sits at a slight angle; can’t rightly say whether this was intended by design or not. It didn’t affect its function in any way, though.
After two hours of charging the red LED started to blink again, very quickly and in irregular tempo. Since the cam was neither heating up nor otherwise misbehaving, I prolonged the charging to full three hours. Not knowing any better I hoped this would be normal, even if it wasn’t what the Manual led me to expect. Three hours passed, and with the red light still flickering, I quit the charging.
The next day I recorded some lengths of video plus twenty or so photos, maybe 4GBs of total content. I then put the camera battery to recharge. The steady red light was on for the duration of charging time, which took 35 minutes. This time the battery signalled its full charge by extinguishing the red light – just as the Manual says.
So paint me perplexed…
App
The camera connects to remote-control & viewing smartphone or tablet via its mobile App, “apptly” named Runcam which you can download from GooglePlay, and also from here.
This App is available for Android (v.4.2 or higher) and iOS (v.6 or higher). Current version is / was 1.9.0. Installing it to a smartphone is a no-brainer, same as making the connection. I did have a stumble or two with my first two attempts where the connection inexplicably broke, but on the proverbial third go everything worked as smoothly as it should. User Manual explains it concisely, and operating the cam via RunCam App is positive and speedy.
The RunCam App lets you control and/or modify built-in WiFi module, Live preview, Video playback, and various other camera parameters and settings. Cam will chirp as usual with every change, confirming your choice, and its signal LED will change colors accordingly.
On the same page there are also links to download Firmware upgrade (in two ways), and links to the User Manual, which you can download as .pdf files, each in your favorite language – if it happens to be any among English, German, Spanish or Chinese.
App connection and running view
Video Quality
RunCam3 supports TV-OUT, and its delay (lag) is ~45ms, with 1080px at 60fps and WDR (Wide Dynamic Range) switched on. In all, the camera records in 1080px at 60fps / 30fps and in 720px at 120fps / 60fps. The default video setting when the camera is used without its App will be 1080px at 60fps, which, of course, is easily modifiable via the App.
Being primarily made for First Person View (FPV) with Remote Control applications, the RunCam3 has no image stabilisation, which is quite understandable since it would also slow down the transfer speed and augment the lagging. As it is, the whole unit should be stabilized well enough to suppress any excess vibration.
To my eye, picture colors are attractive and (considering the small sensor and resolution limitations), action videos are pretty good. As with photos, you have to resist the temptation to overly insist upon detail, but rather enjoy the action. It is easy, owing to the fact that the 155° FOV records a lot less distorted picture than many other small action type cameras.
Photo Quality
Photo size is 2MP resolving in 2304 x 1728 x 24b (or more impressively specified, 95.551488 megabytes). In reality, it represents image sizes that are quite sufficient for general monitor-based viewing – if you decide not to pixel peep, because its JPEG engine is pretty merciless with details. Frankly, the photo results might look “meh” to those among us spoiled by contemporary 16, 24, 50 or more megapixel sensors of today’s photo cameras.
However, let’s recall that we’re talking about a first-person-view camera, made for remotely controlled usage where data transfer speed comes first. Signal delay (lag) should be as close to real time as possible. For now, high resolution imaging remains within feasible and above all, affordable technology. Hovering amid all those aspects, the RunCam3 actually shines.
Outdoor, Sunny
Outdoor, Sunny + WDR On
Outdoor, Overcast
Outdoor, Night (LED Streetlight)
Outdoor, Night (Incandescent light)
Indoor, Incandescent Light
Indoor, Combined Light
Sound Quality
RunCam3 has two microphones. One is placed on top, right behind the Power / Shutter button, and the other is in the back, to the left of the WiFi / Mode button. Such microphone placement does not quite suggest the camera records in stereo.
Truth is, there’s not much to find about the camera’s audio anywhere. The specifications just mention high sensitivity dual microphone and an independent audio chip, for clearer sound recording, but when I set to convert the video file, my (VSDC) Converter treated the sound track as “stereo”. And I suspect the Converters should know what they’re doing…
File Converting Snip
Anyway, the twin mikes record somewhat weirdly, as can be heard in the test. The way it works, the sound recorded with bare camera* kinda made me wondering just what has happened. For all the world, it was as if the audio chip couldn’t decide which mike to use. It just kept switching from one microphone to the other, with no discernible reason. I coudn’t rightly figure it out. Let’s hope it is limited to the unit I was testing. Otherwise… meh.
*I had no way to test the sound in the camera’s protective casing, but it is certain the sound input would be significantly suppressed, like in any other waterproof housing.
Battery Test
Battery depleting tests were made with the bare camera – no waterproof casing was delivered for testing, as it is an optional extra. For charging I used a Tesla smartphone charger which outputs the recommended 5VDC/1A. Since the battery is non-removable it has to be charged in-camera. It is thus the only battery you can use (and keep the Warranty). The cam was spending power outdoors – at highest resolution and possibly the highest power consumption rate. WiFi emitter was switched ON so as to generate higher energy demand. Recharging was made “at room temperature”. This never fails to strike me funny, because whatever temperature of any room, it will always be “room temperature”! Well, during all charging times, my room temperature read exactly 16° Centigrade.
NOTE: These values are rarely constant, since several variables influence such tests; like ambiental temperature, internal camera temperature, usage with or without protective casing, specific charger, battery production batch, whether WiFi was On or Off, etc.
Waterproof Case
As an optional accessory, the RunCam3 protective case is one among the simplest casings ever. It has a sealed back door or hatch with its usual excenter-balance lock. There are two buttons, aligned with the cam’s Power/Shutter and WiFi/Mode switches; one is on top of the casing, the other in the back door.
The cam casing is rated to 2 Bar working pressure, or -10 meters water depth. Of course, neither WiFi nor any other electromagnetic signal will work underwater. Thus, the cam with no monitor of its own has to be guided underwater by feel, taking into account its field of view. That 155° FOV will be narrower underwater (about 117° with flat port), and one helpful accessory would be a classic “sport finder”. It is an old, simple and cheap solution, actually a wireframe in front of the camera to look through. Such a frame should be just a tad larger than the camera’s FOV, so it doesn’t get included in the picture.
Your best option for this is DIY, as it is not found with modern camera accessories. So if you are planning to do some underwater video, consider bending some stainless steel wire!
This attractive orange dice is one good FPV Camera; less so a typical Action Camera. It’s mainly so because of integrated monitor’s absence, which makes settings and control not as straightforward as usual. Seeing that this device has been produced for specialized rather than general action implementations, it is how it should be regarded and also evaluated.
RunCam3 is a FPV camera first, and action or sports cam second. It was made primarily for remote-controlled applications where data transfer speed is of top importance. For that very reason it has been stripped of all power-hungry luxuries, like a monitor and GPS. True, both of those could have been there; simply to be switched off in certain situations. But then the price would be a tad different, right?
About that quirky sound recording mentioned… It is likely that the problem I encountered rests with my unit, rather than being characteristic for the model. Anyway, with the kind of usage the cam has been made for, the original sound would rarely be used in the final video. It would probably consist of motor, propeller and rattle alike that I would prefer replacing with some action music, or more acceptable sound effects. So, not really a big problem.
You have to learn its beeps and color-coded LED response to certain setting adjustments, or simply remember to carry the Manual along with the cam, at least until all signals become familiar. To avid pilots of RC devices it will do very well the way it is, of that I’m sure.
It is my general and unwavering rant opinion that all outdoor devices should be encased splash-proof, by default! It does not change much in production cost, mainly requiring different designing. Such an approach surely adds an important edge – and user confidence.
Having said that, I’d wish for pilots and all other users that RunCam3 had at least a quality weather-proofing, for some of those murky days or conditions. With acceptable battery and with very good lens protection, it wouldn’t hurt if MicroUSB connecting point, memory card slot, button seats and microphones were solidly sealed. And yes, there are ways to have a fully waterproof device of the similar size, even with a removable battery!
Cameras built for action rarely dwell in idyllic conditions. Things are meant to go out with all adrenaline addicts, and should be able to withstand whatever the climate throws their way. Water and dust are what our World is made of. It affects our gear. Since we understand it, all manufacturers should understand it too. And… now wouldn’t be too soon, thank you!
I’m not even thinking about going underwater; that’s another, er, kettle of fish altogether. Still, one can envision RunCam3 being present in whitewater sports, sailing, paragliding and other excitement-rich occasions – though only in its waterproof case which is, in effect, just one more accessory to worry about. RunCam, please abandon that box-in-a-box concept!
See, if one adds the price of a camera, its waterproof case, and a skeletal frame, it seems that putting all internal components straight into an amphibious box capable of ## meters working depth would be cheaper to produce than all those extra parts separately. In the end, the price paid by the user wouldn’t suffer from that logic either.
Good:
Solid build
Well-made Manual
Small & lightweight
Well-balanced WDR
Esthetically pleasing design
Exceptionally protected lens
Positive tactile (click) button response
Bright orange color ensuring high visibility
Not so good:
No monitor
Non-removable battery
No integrated weather-proofing
Fidgety Menu operations (no monitor)
No dashcam function (battery hazard!)
Spartan choice of accessories in the package
No attaching means on camera (such as ¼” bushing)
Power / Shutter button set at a slight angle (in my sample)
Weird sound recording* / alternating microphones (in my sample)
TOTAL VALUE FOR MONEY: Considering what you get for under $100.- the RunCam3 is quite okay
Our World is blessed with an abundance of life-supporting water. We highlight the water importance in every way, and as an everyday theme, it rapidly grows. The wish to see what all hides underwater is ancient, but the ability to bring out visual records from our “inner space” became possible only relatively recently.
Our visual recording devices are created for use in the air. Their optical, mechanical and electrical components must have air around them to work properly. So we encase a normal camera in an artificial “air bubble” to make sure it will operate in water. Underwater housings and bodies of amphibious cameras are just that: air bubbles for our mechanisms to safely work within.
There are two main types of underwater photo- and video-graphing devices, both becoming ever cheaper by dint of standardizations and mass-production.
Schematic view of typical Action Camera Case’s sealing
So-called amphibious cameras can be used in the air and in the water. For now, these are somewhat depth-limited, since their “pocketability” form factor sets limits to their pressure resistance. For divers which normally go deeper, or for people who do not need to photograph underwater very often, underwater camera housings may present a better solution. Majority of action cameras nowadays belong into this class. There are other systems where cameras work in liquid-filled volume so as to be near impervious to great pressures. Outstanding technology, but oh boy, beware the price! It puts those way out of our scope here.
In order to understand the watertighting which is the most important feature of such cameras and housings, let’s see what a watertighting system does, and how its proper working order should be maintained. Whatever the need, whatever type of underwater camera is “better”, its air bubble has to remain dependably safe. These simple drawings show how it all works.
Push and rotating command buttons, sealed by double o-rings
All cameras and u/w casings have to be opened to access some elements: batteries, contacts or memory cards. Their doors, covers and hatches must be opened and closed many times without compromising their ability to properly reseal the opening.
Manufacturers are trying to construct these accessing points as simple as possible for the user to operate, but some of those solutions are not as safe as can be for our air bubble contents! Sometimes those extremely flimsy aprons, scratch-sensitive ridges and rubber covers are easily damaged, and then our camera swamps and drowns, together with the joy of underwater picture-taking! Manufacturers which employ o-ring sealings delegate some maintenance to the user, but offer more safety to the cameras, because among all the watertighting means known, the o-ring principle works the best.
Three most common o-ring applications in various casings
An o-ring is a self explaining name. It is made of perbunan (aka nitrile butadiene rubber, most commonly truncated to NBR or simply nitrile), neoprene or silicone compound material. The drawings here show it as a fat black dot.
To work properly, the round o-ring has to lie in the groove which is square in cross-cut. Such groove is usually provided either in the body of the casing, or in the cover that seals it. Usually the three sides of groove square belong to one part, while the remaining fourth side is formed by the closed second part.
An exception is seen in the Ikelite watertight box cross-cut, where the closed cover and the box form the three sides of the square o-ring seat, while the fourth is open to the water and pressure of the ambient. While all the other sealing types provide fixed closure where only o-ring moves to adjust itself under water pressure, the Ikelite type uses water pressure to progressively push down the cover onto the o-ring, so as to form an even more solid seal.
This type of sealing does its work equally well as the other o-ring principles shown, but the better part is in the ease of Ikelite’s o-ring removal and maintenance.
A small Action Camera with DIY flotation bracelet
O-rings move and deform under ambiental pressure. So these wedge themselves in the corner open to the inner, lesser pressure. To enable it to move, o-ring and its groove must be slippery. Lubricant adds nothing to actual watertighting but many people will overgrease, thinking “the more the better” – which is dangerously wrong!
Properly greased o-ring is just grease-shiny – nothing more. Surplus grease collects sand, hair and salt crystals, which may effectively break the sealing and let the water where it doesn’t belong.
An adequate grease must be used. Depending upon o-ring material, manufacturers may suggest their optimal kind of lubricant. If there are no special suggestions, you can use clear household silicone grease.
To remove it for cleaning and greasing purposes, the easiest way is to slide (with two fingers) an o-ring along its groove toward one side, until it pops out. After cleaning it first, lightly grease a q-tip and run it all around the groove. Nothing but a thin film of grease should remain. Lubricate o-ring by pulling it trough greasy fingers.
Carefully put the o-ring back into the groove – and that’s all the maintenance it requires! If you don’t plan to use your camera casing for longer time, remove all (maintenance-accessible) o-rings and save them separately, best lying flat within a zip-loc bag, to retain their form.
Prior to next use, just clean and re-grease as described. If you take care of your camera or a casing and its sealing elements, these will serve you long and well.
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UPDATE: Recently I had a chance to review some action cameras where I have found yet another variation of underwater encasement gaskets! The difference is not big, but enough to cause a “think or thwim” situation.
On the good side, the new gaskets are more pliable; made of some different material that appears like a stronger version of household silicone sealant. That’s the good news, insofar as the gasket principle can’t possibly be as efficient as an o-ring; still it is an improvement. Of sorts.
Bad news is, these gaskets were not symmetrical in cross-cut! That means, one could easily remove them for cleaning – and inadvertently put them back into their groove the wrong way around! Such an error could result in its loss of efficiency, and that could, in turn, let the water into the encasement to play merry havoc with power and electronics. That we have paid for, but no Warranty will replace (water ingress is always user’s fault)!
This puts another caveat before the users. Prior to any servicing of the action camera casing, please make sure you check whether the gasket around the main hatch looks symmetrical in its cross-cut. If in any doubt about this, do the following:
Note which side of the hatch / gasket goes into the casing first.
Using two fingers, carefully slide the gasket up along its groove until it pops out of the upper groove side.
Apply a waterproof marker to colorsign the spot at the gasket rim that first enters the casing.
Now you know which side of the gasket goes where, and there is no chance to replace it in the wrong way.
Occasionally renew the mark if it gets washed off. You might also mark the groove in the same place…
Anyway, I keep on hoping the Manufacturers will eventually see the light soon and all their funny whachamacallit rubber thingies will soon(est) be replaced with o-rings. Aside from reliability, it would also make the which-side-which-way problem gone. Until that happens, let’s better be overcautious – and keep our cameras dry and working!
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Taking photos deep under the sea
Keeping Cameras Dry
Sometimes you’ll hear people complain that their newly bought underwater camera delivers fogged-over images when first used in water. At other times, some cameras sealed against water make perfectly clear photos, and then all of a sudden their lenses and monitors inexplicably mist over from the inside, usually when they go from the warm environment to cold outdoors or into the water. In all cases, the experience results in frustration.
Some even returned their camera for the very reason, or replaced it with another model which then develops the same problem. It’s circumstances, not the camera!
If an amphibious camera was assembled in humid environment, it might have retained the moisture, since its sealings will keep that assembly line air within. The same can occur with normal cameras when these are enclosed in watertight casings, such as our action cams. There are ways to have the insides of your camera and waterproof casing dry. The most obvious are the drying tabs which most manufacturers sell, but there are other ways, sometimes a lot cheaper too.
Some materials, called desiccants, have the ability to collect moisture from ambiental air. The most popular among those is Silica-gel, its crystals packed in porous paper-like bags. Such packs vary; from several grams to kilogram sizes.
Smallish packages can be left in the closed camera battery chamber overnight. When you replace your battery the next day, you can expect the inside of the camera to be as dry as can be. And if your waterproof camera casing has sufficient room between the cam and the casing (where the desiccant pack can’t interfere with camera functions), simply keep it within. This will make sure your camera and insides of the casing won’t fog over when you dive.
Silica-gel can be regenerated by heating, either in the oven or in a small pot where you hang it so that the bags do not touch the pot sides. Just lay a wire across the pot, and hang the Silica-gel packages from it by paper clips. Heat up the pot and dry the packs for half an hour or so to get rid of accumulated moisture. Keep the regenerated bags in an airtight container until you need to use them again.
Lake crab preparing for defense from the approaching camera
Small action cameras have very tight space between the cam and waterproof casing, tighter than the size of Silica-gel crystals, and you can’t fit even the smallest desiccant pack within. So you’ll need another approach.
You know those tubular containers of vitamin tablets which are dropped into a glass of water to make sparkling vitamin drinks? There is non-toxic Silica-gel “sand” under such tube plug paper seal. If you carefully replace tea in a teabag with this “sand”, you get one very slim package which can be squeezed alongside the action cam. Just be careful not to spill the fine granules all over the camera – it could be quite hard to clean it out! This desiccant is regenerated in the same way as described above. Be careful, though: teabag material burns!
Yet another way to get rid of moisture is to enclose the cam (with all hatches open or removed) in some airtight container together with crushed wads of cheapest newspaper. This is cheap and simple, and for small cameras one can use an empty resealable Nescafe tin can as an airtight space. Newspaper is very hygroscopic, and typical old-style “rag” is the best. It can collect the smallest traces of moisture overnight.
Common rice works too, but take care the rice dust does not get inside the camera. To ensure this, remove or open all camera hatches, then wrap the cam in newspaper. Put it into the airtight container, pour rice over everything, close tightly and leave overnight. Then carefully remove rice, unwrap the cam, inspect for dust. Meticulously clean it, especially the sealing parts and surfaces.
You can use this rice later to scare up some meal, too; its role of desiccant didn’t change it in any way! Another material to keep the air around the camera in its casing dry is the ole blotter! Although majority of folks nowadays use keyboards instead of pen and ink, blotters still exist. Play with blotter paper and scissors to create thin, eficacious moisture removers, made to measure just for your specific action cam casing.
Last but not least, there’s common tissue paper, of course. To re-dry for the next use, just keep paper pieces in the warm air streaming from your computer. Keep all dry desiccant pieces in airtight Zip-loc until next use.
Another way to grip a small camera while in swimming position
Flooded Camera: What To Do?
First, immediately remove the battery and memory card. Most memory cards are waterproof, so wipe them off with tissue, let dry and maybe the contents will still be readable. Connect dried card to the computer via card reader; don’t risk the memory card slot if your machine has it – card readers are cheaper if the card contacts are shorted or something.
Also, let the battery dry thoroughly for at least 24 hours. Li-ion batteries can spontaneously catch fire if something is not in order, so be aware of where and how to perform next test-charge. Putting the charger and dried-up battery on ceramic plate and keeping an eye on it for the whole duration of charging is good precaution thinking!
More bad news: water in the camera is never covered in any Warranty.
It is always regarded as user’s error. And expenditure. So you are left with three solutions.
One solution is, let your service repair the camera for you. Sending the camera to the service, keep the camera wet. If it was drowned in seawater, do not let it dry as this will complicate things. Wash the camera best you can to remove salt from its innards.
Then wrap it in wet cloth, put the bundle in watertight container and pack the whole so that it can stand the postal transport to the service. Call the service to announce it coming, explain the problem. Include some written explanation of the circumstances and what you did to remedy the situation.
Find out if the camera repairing costs are sensible! Sometimes it will be simpler and cheaper to buy new equipment. That would then be the solution #2.
Third solution is to try and repair the damage yourself if you feel you could do it. Or maybe delegate the honors to a friend who is handy in tackling such tasks. Your camera Warranty is off anyway, and whatever you do there will be a price to pay, so what can you lose?
But do read on. Perhaps what follows might help you to avoid or decide things…
Camera made floatable by fishing net floats turned into wrist strap
Horror Story 1
After a dive we were sitting in the garden, drying cameras and preparing to develop the films. Along comes one of our diving buddies, says “I still have some air in the tank, let me go and expose one more roll…” As our E-6 chemicals are one-time-use only, this made sense; two rolls in the bath spiral for the price of one.
He grabs a Nikonos III, loads a roll of film, and dives in the shallow bay in front of the house. Several minutes later he’s out like a shot and shows us the camera. Brown water sloshes around in the $1400 lens port! In his hurry, he plain forgot to plug the flash sync cable contact on the camera underside, and the sea was invited inside to play!
Imagine the atmosphere of taking the camera AND lens apart, washing out every tiny screw and spring and lever and aperture leaves and lens elements and… I shudder even thinking about doing this ever again!
We had to be quick about it as no parts within the camera are corrosion-resistant. Seems like Lady Fortune was at our side, for when we finally put it all back together and re-lubricated all moving parts, everything worked as before. And there were no surplus parts around, too!
MORAL OF THE STORY: Never hurry when you clean, set-up, or prepare your gear!
Wide-angle theme: swarm of fish circling in the lake reed forest
Horror story 2
The scene is an Underwater Photography Competition that takes two days. On the first day, everyone photo-hunts fishes; on the second day the theme is free.
One of diving competitor buddies (yes I know, but in diving no adversary is an enemy) …he scrambles out of the sea and his Nikon SLR in underwater housing is full of that telltale brown brine which comes from washed off film layers. And his facial expression looks even worse, as you can imagine. The $4000 plus system is DOA and he sure ain’t smiling!
Used to this (due to our Horror Story #1 experience), my buddy and me first prepare a solution from 1 liter of distilled water and 1 liter of pure alcohol (isopropyl). Since water and alcohol mix inter-molecularly, the total volume is less than two liters. This is an excellent washing and cleaning liquid; best first aid in such cases. We take the camera apart and wash everything in the mixture. The evaporating alcohol takes water out of every nook and cranny, and washed gear appears clean and dry.
So why did that underwater casing leak? We found out it was never serviced after the previous dive. Our friend admitted he just left it unserviced, postponing it until he forgot about it. In the meantime the sand particles, sea salt and biological matter had dried solid on all sealing points. It was enough to turn pleasure into a catastrophy.
Long story short, we managed to save the camera and the next day our friend was able to compete.
But that evening, our dinner and wine was on him!
MORAL OF THE STORY: Never enter the water with your equipment unserviced!
Portrait of a watersnake (Natrix tessellata) in the reed forest
Horror story 3.
One of my two amphibious cameras let some water in during an underwater swim. The reason was the camera’s USB port watertighting that is sealed other than by classically dependable o-rings. I was lucky it happened in the lake, freshwater being far less corrosive than brine!
To be fair, it works well as long as both the rubber seal and its seat are absolutely clean and free of any obstacles. This is every camera’s weak spot. Even a hair or a grain of sand there is enough for a seal to fail!
First I had to decide whether to try and salvage the camera myself as the speedy reaction is essential, or to send the camera to the service. Sending takes time, and I did not want to risk internal corrosion.
So I removed the lens port, opened both hatches and did my best to get rid of the water (and the Warranty). I dried the battery and memory card as thoroughly as possible. Then I force-dried the camera innards by ingeniously connecting the hair dryer to it.
Drying the flooded camera. Use only cold air – never switch on the heater!
After putting the camera back together without battery and memory card, I carried it several times down to its rated maximum depth of 10 meters. Checked to find any signs of water ingress. Finding none, I re-inserted the battery and memory card. I was very lucky; everything worked as before.
So I have just once been careless enough not to check the sealing for obstacles before putting the camera underwater. And once was enough! Hopefully, should you follow the advices given, you may never have to experience anything similar.
MORAL OF THE STORY: Even shoemakers sometimes have a hole in the sole!
Thanks for having the patience to read through all this. I hope it saves you from some serious trouble. Enjoy your work and have a Good Light!
