• Skip to primary navigation
  • Skip to main content
  • Skip to primary sidebar

Pevly

Ultimate resource for cheap, on-budget action cameras

  • Home
  • Reviews
    • Action Cameras
      • Eken
      • SJCAM
      • ThiEYE
      • Xiaomi
      • GitUp
      • See All
    • 3D Printing
      • Anet
      • AnyCubic
      • Geeetech
      • Tevo
      • See All
    • Drones
      • DJI
      • UPair
      • Xiaomi
      • See All
    • Software as a Service
      • Jungle Scout
      • See All
    • Robotic Vacuums
      • Xiaomi
      • See All
    • Cryptocurrency
      • Coinbase
      • See All
  • Guides
  • Accessories
You are here: Home / 3D Printing / 3D Printers / In-Depth Review: Flying Bear DLP 3D Printer (Shine UV Resin Color Touch Screen)

In-Depth Review: Flying Bear DLP 3D Printer (Shine UV Resin Color Touch Screen)

By Norman on February 27, 2025

In-Depth Review: The Flying Bear DLP 3D Printer Shine UV Resin Color Touch Screen.
The Flying Bear DLP 3D printer’s messy but fun to play with. The detail in the prints is crazy high. Plus it works great and I barely had any problems with it.

3D printing has been a wonderful hobby. The kids like it, the wife not so much. But she tolerates it because she knows anything positive to take my mind off my chronic pain is a good thing. I can only do so much at a time, but it’s better than nothing.

Until now it has been Fused Deposition Modelling (FDM, also known as FFF, or fused filament fabrication), which takes spools of plastic and extrudes the plastic at a small width (.4mm most common). This process places them layer upon layer. There are many types of 3D printers that use a variety of materials including metal powder, PLA filament, and liquid resins. Metal printers are industrial-grade and very expensive, and back when I started this hobby the resin printers cost over $2000.

Resin printers are also known as Stereolithography. That is the process of projecting an image to cure the resin. With DLP 3D printing, a digital light processing(DLP) provides a light source for curing the materials to form the objects through an LCD screen.

The recent influx of cheaper FDM printers was a sign of  DLPs coming down in price. From over $2000 down to less than $1000. This one is less than $600 USD at the time of writing this review.

The Flying Bear DLP 3D printer has been a messy but fun printer to play with. The detail in the prints is crazy high. This printer works well and I had very few problems with it.

Photo of the Flying Bear DLP 3D Printer
The Flying Bear DLP 3D Printer.

The Flying Bear DLP 3D Printer: Specifications

[go_pricing id=”flying-bear-sla-dlp-3d-printer-specs”]

The printer specs are similar to those of other SLA and DLP printers. I’m assuming the cost of the resin is the reason for the small print size. This printer has a 120 x 68 x 210mm build volume which is quite small in terms of 3D printing, but not for SLAs or DLPs. The board or screen has WiFi built in and is configured through a text file. I’m not sure if it’s my WiFi network or the printer, but I haven’t been able to get it working. It connects to my network but not to any of the software. The 4-inch colour touchscreen is a great interface, much better than the text and turn-dial menu system.

Unboxing the Newest Flying Bear Shine UV Resin DLP Color Touch Screen 3D Printer

The printer was well protected in the box with foam shaped to the contours of the printer. The tools were packed inside the printer in their own foam box. This 3D printer comes with a power supply, rubber gloves,  a scraper and an Allen key. It was supposed to come with a bottle of resin but it wasn’t there. I contacted the company and they said they can’t export the resin to some countries. Which I don’t believe, because I can buy resins from any other site.

Unboxing the Flying Bear DLP 3D Printer
Flying Bears sends this 3D printer securely packed in foam.
Unboxing the printer.
Once you remove the styrofoam, you can unwrap it.
Photo of the Flying Bear Shine UV DLP Resin 3D printer in pristine condition.
The Flying Bear Shine UV DLP Resin 3D printer in pristine condition.
The Photo of the Flying Bear DLP 3D Printer - front view.
A frontal view of the new Flying Bear DLP 3D printer.
Photo of Flying Bear Shine with the User Manual.
Lift the cover to finish unpacking the printer. The Flying Bear Shine comes with a user manual.
Photo with a rear view of the printer.
A rear view of the printer.

Printer Navigation

The touchscreen is a very nice full-color display. The main screen has a seven-button layout. Three of those are basic commands. You can click the others to display screens with controls, settings, and information.

Photo of first set of options on the printer's LCD screen.
The first screen displays a menu with your options for printing, controls, and settings, shutting the printer down, displaying printer info, stopping a print job, and information about the company.

The first button brings you to the Print screen. To prevent accidental starts, you first have to confirm that you want to print.

Screen cap with printer options.
When you’re about to print, this screen shows you the file you’ve selected and tells you if the printer’s ready to print.

The Control button takes you to a screen where you can do things like adjust the Z axis and turn the LED on or off.

This screen lets you set the controls before printing.
Here, you can choose from more options – or stop the printer if you need to.

Next is the Settings screen. The display consists of two files. The first is the sysconf (system configuration) which I won’t mess with. The other is the wificonf where you can enter two lines; your WiFi SSID and the password.

Screen shot with printer's sysconfig and wifi connection options.
Here you can add your WiFi connection and password to connect the printer to your network.

When you click the i (for info) option, the following screen appears with your IP address, screen mode, and other information.  like the IP address for your network.

The i (info) option displays a screen with your IP address, screen mode, and more.
When you click the i option, information about your network and the printer appears.

The fifth button simply powers down the machine. The next is the emergency stop. This isn’t for stopping the print, it’s to stop the homing if there is a problem. To stop the print there is a stop button on the print screen.

Last is the Company info screen.

Company Info screen for Flying Bear printers.
This screen tells you the model name (Flying Bear Shine), the tech support email, and other information in case you need help.

Print Quality

I expected the quality of this printer to be awesome, but it is better than I expected. I have seen many prints online and have wanted an SLA or DLP printer for a long time. It is only recently that companies like Flyingbear released DLP printers cheap enough for everybody. On FDM prints the .1 layer height has been considered high quality. On the DLP as well as the SLA, .1 is considered low quality and .025 is high quality. At those resolutions the layer lines are almost invisible.

Print of the Eiffel Tower

The first print I wanted to do was the Eiffel Tower. I have always liked this model and it’s usually one that is done when showing off a DLP or SLA printer. It printed very well but I messed up the post-processing. I dipped it in alcohol then put it in the sun. The problem is that resin that remained between the parts has left a thin film of resin that hardened there.

Photo of printout of Eiffel Tower: Front view.
Printout of Eiffel Tower: Front view.
Second photo of Eiffel Tower printout - overhead view.
Eiffel Tower printout with an overhead view.
Photo of Eiffel Tower 3D printout with closeup of the top.
Eiffel Tower 3D printout with a closeup of the top.
Photo of Eiffel Tower 3D printout with closeup of the bottom.
Eiffel Tower 3D printout with a closeup of the bottom.

Print of a Medieval Castle

Another model I love that is popular for showing the detail your printer can print is a castle on a hill with lots of tiny trees. And if you look at the image of the bottom you will see another mistake I made. Putting it in the sun in the window made it stick to the wood a bit and pulled off a bit of the finish.

Photo of medieval castle front view.
Print of medieval castle with trees.
Photo of melted part of medieval castle.
This part of the castle was too close to a sunny window.
Detail of trees surrounding medieval castle.
Closeup of trees from medieval castle print.
Photo of medieval castle - front view.
Print of medieval castle from the front.

Print of a Green Lantern Ring

Being a DC comic fan I, of course, had to print a Green Lantern ring. It was my first attempt at adding manual supports. My supports stuck too well, and I had to cut them off the ring.

Green Lantern ring 1 - front view

Green Lantern ring 2 - side view

Green Lantern ring 3 - rear view

Prints of Flash and Superman Rings

After that, I thought I would give the Flash and Superman rings a try. I tried them by placing them face down on the build plate. The problem with that is the liquid pools on the ring – so it cures as it cures.

Failed print of Superman rings

Failed print of Superman rings

When I purchased the resin I chose green for the Green Lantern ring and Kryptonite. Superman is my favorite of all the comic book heroes so of course I needed to print some kryptonite. The giant Lego kryptonite was a great option.

Kruptonite 3 - front view - closeup

Kruptonite 3 - front view - closeup

Print of Superman’s Fortress of Solitude

I found this cute little model of Superman’s Fortress of Solitude. It should be printed in white or clear resin, but I only have green for now.

Fortress pring 1 - front view

Fortress print 2

fortress 3 - overhead view - closeup

Print of Skull Dice.

My last model is of the skull dice. It didn’t work. I suspect it was because there is no drainage, or the resin isn’t clear enough to see it.

Skull Dice

Skull Dice

Software

DLP and SLA slicing software is different from FDM slicing software. The company gives out the program called “FLYINGBEAR-Shine slicer” and “Creation workshop”. I’m not sure if it’s developed in house or if it’s a derivative of an open source software.

The supports are different on DLP printers and have to be added through third party software such as Autodesk Meshmixer. The included slicer works great and odd times it will connect through FTP to the printer over the network. You can then upload prints to do on the printer. The Creation Workshop is another slicer that looks good but compared to the Flyingbear one, overcly omplicated. I stuck with the Flyingbear one because it worked most of the time. That, and the slicing time for the Creation Workshop takes a lot more time. Slicing creates an image for every layer, and then the printer prints each layer all at once where FDM uses G-code. The G-Code is just commands for the motors to move the tool-head line by line.

Printer software display - Eiffel Tower printout Printer software

Printer software

Printed Tools

There are no “upgrades” or “modifications” for this printer, but there are tools to print and use. Although, you need an FDM printer to print these.

The first and the one I use the most is this lid to keep the resin-covered when not in use. This is one I designed myself in Fusion 360.

Vat cover
Vat cover.

Next is a drain tray to let the build plate drip the resin in the tray. I found it faster and easier to use the scraper that came with the printer, and to push it off the build plate.

SLA printer drip tray.

PROS

  • High accuracy
  • Strong material
  • Tinted cover to see how the print is going
  • Big bright touchscreen controls
  • Easy to learn
  • WiFi uploading
  • 2K LCD with resolution up to 2550 x 1440
  • Z-Axis adopts Ball Screw to improve printing accuracy and stability

CONS

  • Glitchy WiFi
  • Small build volume
  • Supports are difficult
  • Messy post-processing
  • Needs lots of room for baths and tools.

Evaluation

People online who have DLP printers say these are very messy. I now actually know how messy it really is. You need more space than with FDM printers, despite the printer being smaller. You need room for an alcohol bath and paper towels and a soapy water bath. It’s a lot, but worth it.

I keep the water and alcohol in Tupperware containers that seal airtight. DLP printers are a great idea if you want to print figures or anything you want printed with super fine detail and almost no layer lines. It has a high precision Z-axis ball screw. If the WiFi would work at all times it’d be that much better, and it could be so for you.

I can’t wait to see DLP become mainstream. That will happen when the cost of resin gets lower as the cost of printers did. It will happen just like it did for filament and FDM printing.

Types of resins aren’t as clear as FDM filaments. The Wanhao resin I purchased is made for Wanhao SLA printers. There is no smell but it’s good advice to keep the room well ventilated, and using gloves in handling.

resin

Before I had an DLP printer, I would advise against buying one as your first printer. Now I would say, go for it. Yeah, the resin cost more but it won’t be long before its price drops. Even without the promised resin, the Flyingbear shine is a great choice for a great price.

You May Also Like…

  • The Tevo Michelangelo 3D Printer: A Review
  • NEAT PLA Filament (In-Depth Review)
  • JGAurora A5 Review
  • Tronxy X1 Review

Related Posts

  • zonestar p802qr2Zonestar P802QR2 Double Extruders 3D Printer DIY Kit
  • Photo: EAchine E013 Small Pepper.The Eachine E013 Small Pepper Drone: Big Features, Small Price (Review)
  • Pevly Review: SJCam SJ8 Pro Action Camera (with screen shot from footage in background).The SJCAM SJ8 PRO (an In-Depth Review)
  • Pevly Review: Xiaomi Mi Drone 4K WIFI FPV With 30fps & 1080P Camera 3-Axis Gimbal RC Quadcopter/Xiaomi Mi Drone 4K Review
  • Anet A6 Review – Detailed look at cheap 3D printer
  • AnyCubic 3D Printers Compared – I3 Mega vs Kossel vs I3
  • robo printerRobo 3D Printer Review: The High-Quality Prints
  • TEVO Tornado – Aluminum 3D Printer Review
  • Tronxy X1 ReviewTronxy X1 Review
  • Anet A8 3D Printer Giveaway Winner

Primary Sidebar

Follow us

  • Facebook
  • Instagram
  • Pinterest
  • RSS
  • Twitter
  • YouTube

Recent Posts

  • History and evolution of action cameras
  • Worldcam mirror double dashcam
  • little girl using the best 3d pensBest 3D Pens For Printing – Top 5 Picks To Consider
  • AKASO V50 Elite
  • Artillery Sidewinder-X1 – best 3D printer 2K19?
  • Home
  • About
  • Contact

Action Cam Basics

  • History of sports cameras
  • First GoPro camera
  • Protect and store cameras
  • Underwater usage

Action Camera Guides

  • Best Action Cameras
  • Action Cam Buying Guide
  • Latest Action Cameras
  • Accessories for your camera

3D Printing

  • Anet A8 Printer
  • Anet A6 Printer
  • Improve your Anet A8
  • Compare All Anet printers

© Copyright 2025 Pevly.com · Sitemap · Privacy· Disclaimer· Contribute·