Search results for: “filaments”

The Anet A3 is a good starter printer for anyone interested in 3D printing who doesn’t have a lot of money and doesn’t want to build a kit.  The A3 comes Pre-Built and cost ~$260 USD at the time of this review.

While the build volume is only 150mm X 150mm X 150mm it is well-designed, compact and would look right at home on any office desk.  The printer itself is only 317 X 330 X 368.3 mm leaving it the right size for most desks.

Anet A3 Specification

Here you can check the technical specs of the A3. If you’re interested in comparison with other Anet printers, check our comparison table.

[go_pricing id=”anet_a3″]

Anet A3 unboxing

The packaging is well done and easy to open. It comes covered in foam and taped to keep it from sliding. The size of the package is 381 X 381 X 431.8 cm.

After you remove the foam you will find the printer wrapped in plastic wrap to prevent damage during shipping.  This plastic wrap is easy to remove with a pair of scissors.

Next, take away the plastic and the protective foam inside the printer as well as the box of accessories and any leftover plastic wrap around the extruder.

What’s inside the box?

Inside the box you will find :

• A3 Printer assembled
• small amount of test filament
• PTFE bowden tube
• a power cable
• side cutters (used for trimming supports off prints)
• assorted tools like allen wrenches, standard wrench, screwdrivers
• USB cable
• USB Micro SD card reader with a MicroSD card
• Threaded rod for a spool holder
• 2x printed pieces. One is an X that holds the spool into the printer and the other is a fan for cooling nozzle.

Do not plug it in at this point. The printer has one more protective layer which is a plastic coating similar to the plastic covering plexiglass when you buy it. It protects the printer from scratches while the company builds it.

SD Card files

On the SD card you will find all the instructions,manuals as well as test files ready to print including 3D Models to try slicing. Basically there are no printed guides and a manual, but you have everything to get you started on a SD card.

• A3 Operation instruction 1.1.pdf
• Print Quality Troubleshooting Guide-Anet1.0.pdf
• Software Driver: CH340G for Windows and CH341SER for MAC
• Software: Cura 14.07 and RepetierHost_1_0_5 (You should just download the newest versions from the internet.)
• Test models (Needs Slicing): Baymax.stl, Box.stl, Brush barrel.stl, chess.stl, Figure.stl, FU.STL, Pyramid.stl.
• Test Gcode (Ready to Print): Baymax-1.75mm PLA-A3.gcode, Box-1.75mm PLA-A3.gcode, brush barrel-1.75PLA-A3.gcode, chess-1.75mm PLA-A3.gcode, Figure-1.75mm PLA-A3.gcode, FU-1.75mm PLA-A3.gcode, Pyramid-1.75MM PLA-A3.gcode
• Mainboard-English.jpg which is a detailed layout of the mainboard.

Before you turn A3 on

While I said, even though you don’t have to assemble the printer.

Bowden PTFE Tube installation

The first thing is to install the filament holder and bowden tube. Not hard really and they even supply a wrench to install it. To install the filament holder you need to remove one of the bolts on the threaded rod.

Next, put the rod through a hole in the back of the printer. From the inside you need to screw the nut back onto the rod and tighten it.

They do only provide one wrench, so if you have one of your own or some pliers I would recommenced tightening from both sides at the same time. Be sure the rod is not sticking to far into the printer that it will impede the movement of the build platform.

The PTFE Bowden tube helps guide the filament from the roll on the back of the printer to the extruder on the inside of the printer through the opening on the top side. To install this you simply put one end of the the tube into the printed plastic piece sticking out the back of the printer and the other end into the top of the extruder as shown in the picture below.

Power supply voltage setup

There are a couple more things to check before you plug the printer in. One and the most important is the power setting on the power supply. This is done through a small cutout on the left side of the printer.

The switch can be in one of two settings. The first is 110 volt and the other is 220 volt. Here in Canada we use 110 volt so I made sure the switch is to the left in the 110 volt setting. Be aware that you check the voltage in your country carefully, otherwise you can burn the electronics down.

Wiring check

The other thing you should check is the wiring on the bottom side of the printer. While it looks all neat and tidy one of my display cables had fallen out. At first I turned it on and nothing. I was disappointed thinking I got a bad printer. Luckily, I basically just had to plug them back into their connections.

At this point you can plug in the printer and turn on the power.

Design and build quality

The printer has an Aluminum coated plastic body which is better than the acrylic body of the previous models. It feels solid and less fragile then the Acrylic A8 and A6. Weighing 20 pounds it feels solid as well.

The all metal X, Y and Extruder carriages are solid and no chance for breaking, but also adds weight the motors need to move. On printers less weight is better.  The smooth rods are protruding through the frame and the ones that turn are on bearings to help them turn. On the acrylic version the rods are held in place with printed parts leaving more room for error.

Print quality

So the design is pretty good and you get a lot for the money but how does it print?

PLA Test

Well the first print I did was a new fan shroud. It’s important for PLA to have good part cooling and the stock on only blows on the part from one side of print. The most popular shrouds online are the ones that blow on the prints from all sides.

I also printed the calibration test. This print has many things that are considered difficult for printers such as thin walls, overhangs bridges and curves. The A3 fared pretty well as evident in the pictures.

After that I decided to try something I haven’t tried on any of my printers. I printed a rocket in vase mode. Vase mode means it’s printed non stop. Each shell is one row thick. The rocket came out perfect and I’m glad I gave it a try. My daughter loves it.

Can Anet A3 Print PETG? PETG Test

My second and third print was using blue PETG. PETG is easy to print like PLA only it is done at higher temperature which means it will stand up to the outside summer temps better. I printed a Y axis belt tension-er and a MOSFET holder for the Anet A6.

The MOSFET is used to handle current of the Heatbed when you print ABS. I ordered one for the Anet A6 and one for the A8. Since then I have 3 other printers to order them for. A3 included.

Being pleased with the PETG results, I printed some Batman the toys for myself. The pictures don’t do it justice really. The shine makes it hard to see in pictures.

You can also take a look at video time-lapse I recorded.

Trying out the TPU – Flexible filament on A3

The last thing I wanted to try was flexible filament. TPU is hard to print with because it get wound up on gears. The trick is to print super slow. Like 15-20 mmps. I printed the open RC Formula one tire.

ABS Test

ABS. The last filament type I wanted to test was ABS. I don’t recommend printing with ABS unless you remove the bed and solder the wires directly to the bed. The reason for this is that the connectors used are not rated for the current it takes to power the bed at 100°.

The connector will eventually burn out and stop heating the bed. In extreme cases this could cause a fire.

I printer the same Batman bust I printed in PETG. It turned out almost perfect. It is a bit less shinny than the PETG.

The ABS (Left) curled a bit on the bottom as ABS does without an enclosure.

That brings me to one of my favorite things about this printer. Because it is basically box shaped it wouldn’t take much to close it in to keep the heat in. Two side panels, one on the front and top would be easy to make. I will do an update with this mod soon.

ABS shrinks when cooled to fast and makes it hard to print with and sometimes pops it off the build plate.

That brings me to another great thing about 3D printing and the main reason I got into printing in the first place. Printing trinkets is cool and fun but I mainly got into for Cosplay. The idea I can print endless costumes and props is awesome on so many levels.

Little did I know there is a massive community that come together and build awesome projects like the Open RC Formula one and even life size BB8 and R2D2 droids.

With all the model websites now you can find just about anything you need. If that doesn’t work there are plenty of great tutorials on YouTube that will get you started.

Anet A3 Upgrades and modifications

There aren’t many printable upgrades for the A3.

The Mosfet holder which may vary depending on the one you order.

Bed support. I’m not sure how much this is helping the prints or printer but I printed it anyway.

Auto level. If you wish to ad auto level to the A3 you would need to update the Firmware to one like SkynetV2.3.2 which is a version Marlin specifically developed for Anet boards. In the file sections of the official Skynet group you will find a sensor mount for the A6 which has the same X carriage as the A3.

I recommend (eBay link) this auto-level sensor.

A MOSFET  is used to handle current of the heatbed when you print ABS and other filaments that require the bed to be at high temperatures.

Buy MOSFET  here |  Link 1|  Link 2  | (eBay link) Link 3|

Valuation, pros and cons

Print Quality: 80/100

I give this printer an 80 for print quality. It prints just as well as the A6 with no modifications at all. And I’m sure with the proper settings in the slicer you could get up to 90.

Build Quality: 80/100

The aluminum body of this printer was a good surprise. It’s block shape makes it strong and right at home on my desk. I think the open sides would be good to cover for printing ABS but with the small build volume it wont print anything big enough to warp to bad.

User interface and Navigation: 50/100

I give the interface and navigation a 50 because you can’t do fine control for movement because each click of the dial moves 3-4 positions. So if you want to move the axis .1mm you can’t unless you control it over USB. Also the display could be better if it was angled at 45degs. I will make something up in Fusion 360 and upload it to Thinigivers for anyone who wants it.

Value for the money: 80/100

I give this printer a 80 for value. While it doesn’t compete with other desktop printers like the Ultimaker which cost thousands. It does compete with printers such as the Geeetech MeCreator 2 which is a couple of hundred dollars more.

Final judgment 72/100

Overall, I give this printer a score of 72. If not for the navigation this printer would compete with printers 3-4 times it’s price point.

So what are the pros and cons of the Anet A3?

Pros:

Cons:

Where to buy Anet A3?

Currently there are few places where you can get genuine Anet A3.

Conclusion:

So, would recommend the Anet A3 printer? Yes! After owning the A8 and A6 for a while and all the fun I had with the I was impressed at the prints I could accomplish with a Sub $500 printer. The A3 is a nice addition to my collection.

From the full graphics display to the Horizontal X axis. The A3 will be a good printer for printing smaller items. I wont need to power the larger bed for smaller prints.

Other than that the A3 has nice touches like branding of the Anet logo on the front as well as the software on the display. The A3 also has a smaller footprint and I will keep it on the desk instead of the table on the other side of the room.

If you are really strapped for cash then you can’t go wrong with the Anet A8 or Anet A6. But if you can afford the difference then go for the A3 will save you building time. Be warned, 3D printing is an addicting hobby. It should be in all the schools as it will be a common part of most household item.

This printer would be good for kids to use as the electronics are out of the way. So buy a printer and join us on Facebook for fun and interesting things. Or join the group to help you make the decision.

After about a year with the Anet A8 , I learned quite a bit about 3D printing and how 3D printing works.

The A8 is a kit printer which requires assembly. I really enjoy building these kinds of things so it was the perfect choice for me. That and the price was right. After a year of ups and downs, I wanted to see if the mistakes I made were the fault of myself or the printer.

When I was offered to review the A6, another kit printer from the same company I jumped at the chance.

The A6 is the bigger brother/sister of the A8. A well-designed printer which are both modeled after the Prusa i3 printer.  The A6 cost about $50 more than the A8.

What are the differences between the Anet A8 and the A6 besides the price?

Well, because I have both I’m in a great position to tell you. Rumor has it that the A8 is being phased out. But that’s OK because the A6 will likely take its place in price. Speaking of price the A8 and 6 have dropped in price over the past year as they become more and more popular.

While there are tons of similarities, in this article I will focus on differences between Anet A6 and Anet A8. Let’s begin.

Specification

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Build Volume and Size

The A6 and 8 have roughly the same build volume while the A8 is a lot bigger in size. The A8 is 500 X 400 X 450 and the A6 being 480 X 400 X 400. This can be both a good and bad thing. While good you have more space on your desk or bench it’s also bad in that it leaves less space to work on. This is especially visible for things like leveling the bed which is a must for any printer without an auto level system. Luckily auto level is easy and cheap to implement.

Frame Strength

Because the A8 uses two vertical pieces of Plexiglas with horizontal piece across the top and bottom there is a lot of play and vibrations. When the printer is moving so much in all axis’s it’s leaves what is called artifacts in your prints. They can be waves or ripples. This means you will have a lot more post print processing work to make them look nice.

The A6 however has a box shape front piece as well as the two vertical pieces that hold the power supply and mainboard. This give much more stability to the printer leaving less artifacts. I recommend bracing both printers to a piece of wood or table top of some sort. This helps with artifacts as well as noise from both printers.

X axis

The A6 has a better design for the X axis as it is horizontal and not vertical like the A8. I’m not sure if it makes a ton of difference but it sure feels more stable for the direct drive extruder. The direct drive means the motor which feeds the filament into the hotend is directly mounted onto the X carriage.

The other type which reduces weight and seems more popular are called a Bowden system. In this system the motor is off to the side and feeds the filament into a Bowden tube which is connected to the hotend. That is good for reducing artifacts produced by the belts flinging the carriage back in forth and also gives you the choice to speed it up with less chance of errors. One down side to the Bowden system is the flexible filaments are harder to print with.

Heat break (throat)

The throat AKA heat break is the threaded tube holding the hotend to the X carriage. On the A6 they have a 40mm throat as opposed to the 30mm one on the A8.

I’m not sure why they are different as they both have direct drive but the 40mm one lets it get closer to the pulley on the motor which helps with printing flexible filaments.

You could move the A8 one closer but the heater being closer to the motor is probably not a good idea. I’m going to order a bunch of 40mm ones so I can update the A8 as well as keep spares on hand because they are easy to break if you are not careful.

The display control

The A6 has a full graphic display with a turn knob for navigation while the A8 has a standard 4 line display and 5 flimsy buttons for navigation. The flimsy buttons can be less so with the button helper mod someone created and shared on the Thingivers website.

The knob is great but feels less accurate as fine tuning a setting is not possible unless you use a USB connection to a PC to change it. The reason being that each click of the knob moves 2-3 values. So setting 100 steps per mm on a motor would be 101 or 102. I’m not sure if that’s important as it’s very close anyway.

Another cool thing with the A6 display is it has a tiny speaker that beeps like PC’s use to do which is great because at the end of the print of plays a little tune which is good if you are in a different room. The bad about this is its loud and hard on the head if you are sitting beside it. I don’t know of a way to turn it down.

Print Quality

While both the A6 and A8 print very well with a little bit of effort on the users part the A6 prints better in my opinion. The reason for this is because the A6 is generally more stable out of the box. So after printing many items the prints are great on both printers. Although the A8 took longer to get there.

The A6 has printed more types of filaments out of the box. Filaments like ABS and TPU (Flexible). While stringy these parts printed well. The stringiness is typically filament related but can be fixed or lessened with settings. As seen it prints overhangs, bridges, thin walls, circles, points and small texts very well.

So both printers print at par with printer costing thousands of dollars. The expensive printer give you things like enclosures looks and better warranties. Warranties are also needed as parts on those printer typically cost more to fix or replace.

Community Support

The A6 has more features than the A8 but the A8 is a lot more popular due to price therefore there are many mods that can overcome those short comings.

Summary

Whether you buy the A6 or A8 you can’t go wrong. Both printers are great value for the buck. While the company support is lacking there is a huge community willing to help beginners  with any sort of issues they may encounter.

I recommend the A6 over the A8 because of these differences but the A8 is a lot more popular and has a lot more printable upgrades then the A6. So if you want to tinker and have fun modding and money is very tight then get the A8. If you just want to print cool things and get down to business then get the A6.

Either way, Happy Printing and welcome to the community!

Where to buy Anet printers?

In order to avoid buying a fake printer, or getting an Anet clone, be careful when you’re making your order. Here is a list of recommended stores for both printers :

• Buy Anet A6 | Amazon|
• Buy Anet A8

Coupon codes and discounts (limited time only)

• Anet A8 Coupon
• Anet A6 Coupon

Learn more about Anet Printers

Here are some useful resources to help you understand better which Anet printer is right for you.

• Anet A8 Full Review
• Anet A6 Full Review
• Anet A8 Upgrades
• All Anet printers compared

I was introduced to 3D printing 3 years ago at work. They have a 3D printer which cost over $60,000. I was in awe and figured I would never get the chance to own one myself. Then last year I decided to do some research into 3D printing. To my surprise there was actual 3D printers almost within reach of my $500 budget. Those printers were the Anet series printers.

What can you do with a 3D printer? Well the common thought is they are only good for printing trinkets and not much else. I’m here to say that is not true. They are useful for printing things from household items like replacement knobs to educational props and even custom and affordable prosthetic for amputees.

What did I want one for? I wanted one for printing cosplay props and costumes and yes – trinkets and toys. So after talking my wife into getting one for the house, I decided to choose the Anet A8 which was the cheapest printer at the time. It’s cheap because it is a kit and you need to assemble it yourself. After using the A8 for a while and learning a lot, I was asked if I would like to review the Anet A6. The A6 is the bigger brother to the A8. And of course I said yes.

The Anet A6 is an entry level I3 style 3D printer kit the user needs to assemble.

The Anet A6 is not for everyone. Users who want a printer you buy and start printing right out of the box will not want the A6 or any kind of a kit printer. But kit printers are great for people to learn the inner workings of the printer. This is a good thing because when something goes wrong, and something always does, even on a printer already built, the user will have a better understanding on how to fix it.

Kit printers can print nice prints right from the start however. I printed this awesome dragon head with no modifications at all.

Yes prebuilt printers have a warranty but they don’t last forever. The Anet printers have a couple of great Facebook groups that are filled with users that will assist you through almost every issue you may run into. I know this as I am a part of those groups and I like to help when I can.

The box full of pieces look intimidating when you first open it but don’t fret.

 The kit includes all the tools needed as well as an SD card with the test prints and documentation needed to get your A6 up and running.  The SD card also has the free slicer software with profiles for the printer.

Although I would download the newest versions from the company offering that software (Usually Cura). As mentioned above the people on the Facebook groups are happy to help with the build and give you advice if you are unsure of any part of the build and as it’s worldwide there is usually someone there available to help you out.

So what is 3D printing? Well 3D printing is like 2D printing (on paper) only it puts melted plastic down line by line and layer on top of layer. As one layer cools the next layer is being lay-ed down. This is the most common style of 3D printing (Fused deposition modeling (FDM)) but there are other ways that we won’t get into during this review. If you want to know look up SLA and DLP printing.

In FDM printing the plastic is fed into a heated tip at 1.75mm and 3mm diameter strips rolled onto spools. It works the same way a hot glue-gun works. The printer prints models people create one of a a couple ways. The first being CAD (computer-aided design) software. They are very intimidating to look at and some are very expensive to buy. But there are good free programs like Googles Sketchup to Autodesk 123D that have a lot of free online training from sites like YouTube.

Another way is to scan objects into the computer with scanning tools. Scanners range in prices from professional ones that cost thousands to Open source community driven ones that use scanners like the Xbox/Windows Kanect. There are also ways to do it with series of images at different angles. I have tried it with the Kinect and it’s very cool.

There are a lot of sources online for models to print. Basically you download (create) 3D models in .stl file format then slice it into layers and .gcode file format that your printer understands. Places like MyMiniFactory and Thingyverse. That’s all find and dandy, but what if you need something not in one of the usual places?

Well there are great applications to build 3D models that are not hard to learn, such as Fusion 360 and 123D design and even an online tool called  Thinkercad that is beginner friendly. Any of those tools has many easy to follow tutorials on Youtube. I have been having fun learning Fusion 360.

Anet A6 Specifications

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The A6 has pretty good specifications for a cheaper 3D printer. It is more than enough for the average user.

Assembling Anet A6

The A6 took me about 5 hours to build. One of those hours was removing the protective paper from the acrylic pieces. Some people just leave it on, but I think it’s more aesthetically pleasing without it. Some even build the printer with it on then remove it after it’s together. I don’t think that is an advantage either. What I will say is that I found removing it all at once as apposed to removing it as you build did seem faster. I took them off as I went with the A8 and it seemed longer to me. As mentioned above I had no washers with this printer. That wasn’t a problem as I had my own and most places I find leaving them out gives a snuff fit.

One thing you don’t want to do is over tighten the screws holding acrylic pieces. To much force will snap the part in two. It was a pit faster for me then the average person as I have done this before. As long as you follow the videos and/or the guides you shouldn’t have any trouble assembling the printer. It’s basically turning screws.

A good thing to do first is to connect all the electronics and test them before you start the build. It will save you hours if there is a problem with say the power supply or motherboard. Just be careful not to heat the hotend past 70 when testing. 40-50 should be enough to know if it works correctly. Same goes for the bed. Put them on something that can handle heat as well. Most people skip this step, it’s up to you.

Here are the videos you’ll need to assemble your A6. If you’re having trouble understanding some part of the video, take a look at PDF manual which you can find on an SD card.

• Anet 3D Printer A6 Assembly Video 1
• Anet 3D Printer A6 Assembly Video 2
• Hot Bed Level Adjustment and Print Test

Printing Quality

My first print from this printer went well. I printed the box from included SD card. This print turned out pretty good for a first print. It was printed with the rill of PLA that came with the printer.

My second print didn’t turn out so well.  It was also printed with the PLA material that came with the printer. The problem here is the most common among FDM printers. It’s what’s known as a nozzle blockage. At least that is what it looks like. Only in this case it was not enough tension on the filament. The spring that comes with the printers are by default not putting enough pressure on the filament for the gear to push the filament into the nozzle.

This was fixed with a tightening down drive gear (Red) by stretching the spring (Green) a bit. I had to do the same on my A8. Some may think turning up the heat will fix it. And technically it will help by making it easier to push through. But this also makes the filament to hot to cool before the next layer is put on top of it. That can lead to other issues. Best to fix the real problem.

After fixing that issue I tried reprinting that file only to notice something else. As seen in the image below the rounded parts were miss-shaped.

After that my prints came out great. I printed three more files provided on the SD card with the included PLA. One is a pencil cup with a bear on it. The second is a puck with chines text.

The third print I did with the PLA is another popular benchmark test. This print test many different things like overhangs, thin walls, small texts, pointy post and more.

I also printed this ghost with a different roll of Purple PLA I had laying around the house. It turned out pretty great don’t you think?

Printing with ABS

After printing a few successful test prints with the included roll of PLA (Polylactic acid) I decided to test a couple different types of filaments. ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene) is the second most common type of filament next to PLA.

This little boat is called a Benchy. It’s short for Benchmark. It is used to test different aspects of printing. Things like overhangs (the bow) and bridges like the roof of the boat.

After that I printed an autolevel sensor holder. I will install it after this review.

Printing with flexible filament

Another filament and the one I’m excited for is PTU (Polyurethane). PTU is a flexible filament which is great for things like phone cases and tires for RC cars.

Most common problems

As an active member of the Facebook group I see common issues with these printers. One being faulty parts. But when you buy one of the cheapest printers on the market you can’t expect top of the line materials. The good news is it’s still cheaper to replace a few faulty parts then buy one if the more expensive $1000+ printers.

Here is a list of the A6 parts in case you encounter an unfixable problem and need a new part :

• Nozzle (mix various size)
• PTFE tube
• Motors
• Extruder
• Motherboard |Click Here|
• Limit Switch

If you are facing the print quality problem, check this troubleshooting guide.

Anet A6 Printable Upgrades

One of the best things about this printer is the community full of makers who love to make printable upgrades for this printer. Things like the clamps mentioned above to fix circle problem. These are the most common parts people print to update their printers

• First is the Y axis belt tension add-on.
• A frame brace to keep the acrylic from bowing from the belt pulling on it.
• A circular fan duct to cool the print filament from all angles and not just the side.
• Bed level nut and spring holders for easier bed leveling.
• Power supply cover. This protects the wires to prevent people from touching the wires and being electrocuted. Specially important if you have little ones.
• Z adjustable endstop. As mentioned in the cons the Z endstop is not adjustable. But this is easily fixed by printing and installing this mod.

Those are a few of the most common printable modifications for the A6 printer. There are many more one the sites mentioned. Simply search the term “Anet A6”.

Recommended Hardware Upgrades

Other modifications people do to this printer are not printable but are recommended.

The first and most important mod is for people who want to print ABS prints. This is called a Mostfet. I don’t know the details but it helps control the high currents going to the heatbed when you run it at 100°C or more. It’s also recommended to change the wires to 12 gauge or stronger. A Mosfet is under $10. To install a mosfet, follow this tutorial.

Buy mosfet | Click Here |

Another common upgrade is the an autolevel sensor. The sensor replaces the Z endstop which tells the printer where the nozzle reaches the bed. The sensor probes the bed and tells the printer at what angle it sits so the need to adjust the bed at all 4 corners to the nozzle.

Buy autolevel sensor

The next upgrade I recommend depends on the choice in the last. That is a glass bed. Have a 4mm glass cut 22cm X 22cm. It is great for printing on but only some sensors work with glass. The link above tells you which ones will. Go to a local glass or hardware store to buy them. I say them because it’s best to buy 2 because they are cheap and it’s great to have one to print on as the other cools down.

A common upgrade people in the community update that I don’t have experience with is polymer bearings called Igus bearings.

Anet A6 Summary

Print Quality: 8/10

I give this printer an 80 for print quality. At first build this printer prints at a 60 but after greasing the rods and clamping to a piece of wood the prints went to 80. You can get it to 90 or more by updating some features like the E3D style extruder.

Build Quality: 7.5/10

I love this build because it feels solid enough that you could pick it up while printing. I give it 75 because although solid in the end it is acrylic.

User interface and Navigation: 5/10

I give the interface and navigation a 50 because you can’t do fine control for movement because each click of the dial moves 3-4 positions. So if you want to move the axis .1mm you can’t unless you control it over USB.

Value for the money: 9/10

I give this printer a 90 for value because it is the best printer for this price point. The Tronxy and other knockoffs are cashing in on the success of Anet printers.

Final judgement 7.5/10

Overall, I give this printer a score of 75. If not for the navigation and Acrylic frame this printer would compete with printers 3-4 times it’s price point.

Pros and cons

So what are the pros and cons of the Anet A6?

Pros:

• Solid frame. Even though it’s acrylic the A6 has a solid frame.
• Solid X carriage. The horizontal x carriage makes for a smoother more precise movements.
• The full graphics display has a nice interface and control over the little brother A8.
• 1/2KG roll of filament included. It’s nice to know you have the filament to print with in case the printer arrives before the filament order.
• Filament support. Doe to the heat bed and nozzle that reaches 250 there is a wide variety of filaments supported although ABS works for small prints. Large prints would require an enclosure to prevent warping.
• Print Volume. The A6 has a good print volume.
• Tools and USB. The kit comes with the tools needed to assemble the printer which aren’t to cheap feeling like you get with most furniture that needs assembled. It also has a USB SC card reader and a 16GB card for putting files to print on.
• This printer plays a cool tune at the end of each print. While the loud volume is good if your not in the room when it finishes it’s pretty loud when you are sitting beside the printer.
• Long heatbreak aka Throat. This printer has a 40mm heatbreak as compared to the 30mm one on the A8. This means it will be closer to the drive gears making flexible filaments easier to print with.
• Great online community. Lots of help with problems you may have or a place to show off your prints.

Cons:

• Loose screws. While not a huge deal it’s still annoying. The printer has some pre-assembled parts such as the X and Z carriage. These parts have some loose screws so it’s recommended that you check each screw including the tiny screws holding the pulleys onto the stepper motors.
• The odd time you will come across a broken or missing part. In my case the printer didn’t have any washers. Which isn’t that bad. If a piece of the frame it may be a bit more of a show stopper.
• Some sub par parts. One of my smooth rods seems to be a bit bigger in diameter than the others. This makes the bearings harder to slide. A bit of grease seems to help until I get a new one ordered.
• Manual bed leveling. This day and age most printers have auto bed leveling. The A6 comes stock with a manual level system. This can be fixed by ordering a sensor for under $10 and flashing a community made firmware to the printers motherboard. Very easy to do and lots of info at the Facebook group mentioned above. This tells the printer if the bed is angled in any way and compensates for it.
• Z endstop not adjustable. When the nozzle homes it hits switches at the end of each axis. Because the Z moves when you adjust the bed it’s handy to have a Z endstop that can move and be fine tuned. This is easily rectified with the auto level sensor.
• Bed wires tot right for the current. The wire on the bed doesn’t handle the current from ABS printing very well. It’s recommended you get a proper Mosfet. Searching Printer Mosfet on Ebay andwill get you the Mosfet recommended for most printers. They are cheap (around $10) and easy to install.

Where to buy Anet A6?

Currently there are few places where you can get genuine Anet A6.

• Buy Anet A6 on Amazon – (Click Here)

Conclusion

So, would recommend the Anet A6 printer? Hell yes! After owning the A8 for a year and all the fun I had with it I was impressed ate the prints I could accomplish with a Sub $500 printer. I thought the A6 would be a marginal upgrade. Boy was I wrong. The A6 is a large update from the A8. From the full graphics display to the Horizontal X axis. The A6 printed the flexible PTU and ABS were the A8 struggled or failed completely.

Other then that the A6 has nice touches the A8 is missing like branding of the Anet logo on the stepper motors and the Spool holder as well as the software on the display. The A6 also has a similar build volume with a smaller footprint. It will be my primary printer from here on out.

If you are really strapped for cash then you can’t go wrong with the Anet A8. But if you can afford the difference then go for the A6. Be warned, 3D printing is an addicting hobby. It should be in all the schools as it will be a common part of most household item. So buy a printer and join us on Facebook for fun and interesting things. Or join to help you make the decision.

Here are more Anet related articles.

• All Anet printers compared
• Anet A8 Review
• Anet A8 upgrades

 Happy printing!