Category: 3D Printers

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  • Creality3D CR-10 – 3D Printer Review (Large print volume)

    Creality3D CR-10 – 3D Printer Review (Large print volume)

    3D Printing is perhaps one of the most exciting advancements in technology that a lot of people are now interested in learning. However, a  Creality3D CR-10 printer is significantly more expensive than a regular printer. Not to mention the additional cost of the filament that you need to print a 3D object.

    The Creality CR-10 is a good example of a 3D printer. In fact, it is regarded as one of the best performing printers in its price range. That said, this review will cover all the essential things you need to know about the Creality CR-10.

    What is the Creality CR-10?

    The Creality3D CR-10 is an FDM 3D printer which managed to shake the 3D printing community. In a very short time, it became one of the most popular mid-range 3D printers together with Anet’s A8 and A6. What makes CR-10 so special that it has twice the price compared to the other kit printers?

    3D printer
    CR-10 is popular, large volume 3D printer

    First of all, CR-10 comes nearly assembled. Other kit printers take a couple of hours to complete from scratch, whereas the CR-10 takes only a few minutes. Second, it has a huge printing volume of 300mm x 300mm x 400mm. The biggest question is, is CR-10 worth the ~500$ price tag?

    In this review, I will try to figure that out. I will unwrap it, assemble it and print tons of stuff to test its performance, durability, print quality, and safety.

    CR-10 variations

    With the rising popularity of the CR-10, Creality 3D released few more versions of the printer. The only difference between the versions is in the printing volume and of course – the price. Larger the volume, higher the pricing. Additionally larger printing volume models included a 2x 1K roll of filament.

    So far CR-10 can be found in these sizes :

    • 300 x 300 x 400 mm (link) – standard
    • 300 x 220 x 300 mm (link) – known as CR-10 Mini
    • 400 x 400 x 400 mm (link)
    • 500 x 500 x 500 mm (link)

    Update: Creality 3D released CR-10S which is a dual lead screw Z axis printer and has filament sensor.

    CR-10 Specification

    In this review, I’ll take a look at the most standard CR-10 model, the below table shows the technical specification of the product.

    Printer modelCreality 3D CR-10
    Printing size300*300*400mm
    Printer Dimensions490*600*615mm
    Printer Weight10.3kg
    Print speed20mm/s – 100mm/s
    Layer resolution0.05mm – 0.4mm
    Axis positioning accuracy0.01mm – X

    0.002mm Z

    Material diameter1.75mm
    Printer Frame MaterialMetal
    Platform board materialAluminum
    MainboardTriGorilla
    Pre-assembled

    90% pre-assembled

    Screen
    Extruder typeMK10 Bowden
    Heated Bed
    Max Nozzle Temperature~250-270°C
    Max Heatbed Temperature~71°C
    Auto-leveling sensorx
    Filament sensorx
    Resume from outagex
    Enclosurex
    Recommended MaterialABS / PLA / Wood / Nylon
    Power Input110V/220V AC, 50/60Hz
    Retail priceCheck the price

    CR-10 Unboxing

    I received my CR-10 from BangGood. The box arrived looking tired, but everything was well packed in foam and has everything needed to get started. My oldest daughter has an unboxing video located below.

    https://youtu.be/nWRias_H8As

    What’s inside the box?

    3D printer parts and manuals

    • 1x CR-10 3D printer
    • 1x rack shelf stack
    • 1x sheet metal wall
    • 10x cable
    • 1x pilers
    • 1x scraper
    • 1x power adapter
    • 1x USB cable
    • 1x certification
    • 1x hose
    • 1x socket wrench
    • 1x 8G SD Card
    • 1x T Z Fixed Block / Z limit
    • 1x T Z Fixed Block
    • 1x tape
    • a bunch of screws, bearings, nuts, and washers
    • 1x nozzle
    • 2x tube connector
    • several alien wrenches
    • 1x screwdriver

    Creality CR-10 Assembly

    After unboxing it’s time to assemble the CR-10. Even though some newbies might think this part is scary, it’s actually quite easy. Two of my daughters helped me and had some fun along the way.

    Inside the box, you’ll find the printed building directions. However, they are quite blurry and vague. On the other hand, the pdf manual, which can be found on the SD card is great. It contains a sufficient amount of information to assemble.

    The hardware was not complicated either.  I can’t stress this enough, but the whole process was straightforward. The CR 10 came in two pieces: the base and the Z axis. Eight screws connect the two main parts. And that’s pretty much everything. The frame is completed.

    Next came the cable wiring and they are all bundled and very clearly labeled. My desire for organization greatly appreciated this. This printer came with an SD card containing plenty of information for new and experienced printers; operating instructions, a basic troubleshooting guide, slicing software, and even screen grabs of the settings they used when slicing the included .stl files.

    CR-10 Cura Setting

    Cura is one of the many slicing software compatible with the Creality CR-10. You can use the default settings or make some adjustments according to your needs. For beginners, you can check online discussions and forums where other users of CR-10 share some useful information about the different settings they use. Also, you may want to save your g-code to the Micro-SD card that came with the printer for convenience.

    Design and Build quality

    From the aesthetic point of view, CR-10 looks quite unique. It has stripes on the frame which make it stand out from other printers. Lately, some other manufacturers began copying the same stripe design (Anet E10).

    3D printer

    The frame is quite sturdy and the slot bearings are quiet and a very smooth motion, only 2 needed tightening upon arrival. I feel this is a great printer design and I would only make one change to the frame and one change to the carriage. Details about these can be seen in the upgrades section.

    The 300mm x  300mm hotbed took a bit to warm up and kept the room warm, but at that size, it is expected. Leveling the bed was quick and nearly painless.

    CR-10 Upgrades

    I upgraded my previous printer, the Anet A6 multiple times. I worked to improve extrusion which is how much filament is extruded with each step on the motor for this I added a Greg’s Wade geared extruder, I printed frame braces to improve stability and enable me to add tension to the belts which help reduce wobble. I added an e3dv6 hotend to improve print quality and used a Bowden setup to lighten the carriage.

    Two printers
    Two of my printers, Anet A6 on the left, CR10 on the right. While A6 required some upgrades and modifications, CR-10 works the same right out of the box

    All this except the Wade extruder come built into the CR-10. This makes it a great print out of the box printer. Just to give you an idea on how much improvements some 3D printers need, take a look at Anet A8 upgrades list.

    Because most issues a printer may encounter are engineered out of the design I will only be putting a cross piece to stabilize the Z axis and lessen wobble and a better parts fan. There are several great designs available on thingiverse.com at the minimum I would recommend everyone get the upgrade available that lessens stress to the heated bed wires solder joints.

    So far, I had no need for other modifications and upgraded or printed parts. If I come across a worthwhile piece or upgrade, I will update the article.

    User interface and navigation

    Loading the filament with the MK-10 extruder was quick and easy and the filament flows wonderfully. The display is nice and bright with adjustable contrast. The dial navigation made selecting in the menu a breeze. I do feel the grouping of the menu items could use a little work. However, I may be biased since I am more familiar with my other printer. My daughters were able to navigate the menus themselves.

    However, I may be biased since I am more familiar with my other printer. My daughters were able to navigate the menus themselves.

    3D printer

    The display shows bed/nozzle temps both set point and current value so you know exactly where the printer is running, flow rate so if you notice either over extrusion (too much material) or under extrusion (too little material), fan speed If the part is too warm you can also adjust this while live printing and live display of each axis coordinate which is nice since these are set during slicing and tuning may be required to maintain a quality print. It would be good to mention the progress bar is not a representation of % completed but layers completed.

    Printing quality

    Luckily only two test kitties were lost to loss of adhesion. Some glue stick and away she printed. The stock kitty stl has had several weird loops it made while printing then the y-axis seemed to have shifted at the neck I couldn’t let the poor kitty suffer when it shifted again. I’m going to blame the file.

    It turns out some sd cards have a corrupt kitty stl affectionately named decapi-cat on the CR-10 forums. It is kind of like an initiation step in owning a CR-10. There is even a cleaned up version of the decapitated cat that has been modeled.

    It was time for a bench and the bench came through and I am very impressed by the print quality. It wasn’t perfect but that is remedied by changing settings. At 80mm/s the printer was quieter than I am used to.

    Having printed multiple items on the CR-10 I can say I am impressed. The overhangs are well formed with no drooping. The infill isn’t visible through the print wall. The bridging all completed without issue and taller objects have little to no Z banding even at higher print speeds, which is seemingly a standard to most FDM printers.

    I placed my Anet A6 printed bench and my CR-10 printed bench side by side and I had to be careful to not mix them up they were so similar.

    With one upgrade and after adjusting only a few of my slicer settings I was able to dial in the printer to run on par with my heavily modded Anet A6.

    3D printers gun replica
    3D printed UNSC Magnum Halo 4 gun replica

    Safety

    I believe a well-built machine can run safely for extended periods of time. I pushed this printer running back to back long prints with total times ranging from 18 hours to over 45 hours. I have left the printer idle for several days and returned it to running long and intricate prints and it is still printing without issue.

    Rose Quarts sword
    3D printing of the Rose Quartz sword took around 45 hours on CR-10.

    Rose Quartz sword

    The electric box for this printer is well designed and the cable connections make assembly easy. The cabling is all covered in protective sleeving and its bundled in a way that makes routing the cables easy. One thing which adds an extra layer of safety is an external mosfet for the heatbed.

    The mosfet is one of the most common upgrade recommendations for most Chinese kit printers. It costs around 7-10$, but it’s even better when it’s included with the printer, so you won’t have any extra investments.

    CR-10 3D Printer Pros and Cons

    PROS

      • Large Build volume
      • Simple to use
      • Easy to build
      • Quiet running
      • Prints out of the box
      • Requires little to no upgrades at all
      • Removable print bed
      • Intuitive control box
      • Flexible power supply
      • Good community

     

    CONS

    • Only has one lead screw, 1 Z-axis motor, instead of having one on the other side of the gantry. The said lead screw is found at the lefthand side.
    • Without an enclosure, the heat bed can reach only 70 degrees. The bed also takes a while to heat up thoroughly.
    • Due to the large heated bed size, it warms a room quite a bit.

    All pros easy to build and simple to use, a large print area, and its quiet running. The printer is quick and easy to set up, and it prints great out of the box. It can also run for extended periods of time without issue.

    Moreover, the fact that the glass print bed is removable allows some users to replace it with a borosilicate glass or mirror which is believed to have its own benefits in producing really smooth first layers. Such glass or mirror can be fixed into the printer’s heated bed with ease.

    If I have to come up with a con, it would be that the printer’s heated bed will warm the room it is in while it is printing. However, I am not a fan of being cold, so that kind of works for me.

    Since receiving the CR-10, I have successfully printed Decapi-cat, Benchy, Clash of Clans: Hog Rider, Dare Devils cowl, multiple Triforce key chains, 14 Ninja headbands from Naruto Shippuden, Crystal Gems and Rose Quartz sword from Steven Universe. I also printed the logo to Final Fantasy VII, Dancing hotdog from Snapchat, several Leaves of Lorien, a Groot flower pot, Guardians of the Galaxy emblems, Starlords blaster, the UNSC Magnum from Halo 4, the idol from Raiders of the Last Ark, and two forearm bracers for a cosplay project.

    Where can you purchase the Creality CR-10?

    This printer is available on Amazon and other online retailers. For an 18% OFF coupon for Creality CR-10, check out this link e27d8dUSE Coupon code: e27d8d

    Final Review of the Creality CR-10 3D Printer

    All in all, this is a great printer design. I’m shocked to say that I have nothing bad to say as 3d printers can be fickle. I have and will recommend this printer for new people in the 3d community that want to jump right into printing.

    I do recommend a few simple upgrades mentioned above that will improve the life of the printer. Some advice I wish I could have heard would be to remember to use the resources around you, ask questions when you have them.

    Most of the 3d printing forums and groups are great resources of data and the people in the community are eager to help beginners learn more about the printer. Sometimes the correct terminology is all that’s standing in the way of a successful search or question. Always search the file section. There are some key sites to remember.

    The community behind CR-10 is massive. There are plenty of user-groups on Facebook where you can get immediate online help from owners of the printer. If you have a question about using the printer or need assistance in troubleshooting or calibrating it, you can visit this group (there are few, but this one has over 13 000 members).

    CR-10 is an amazing printer. I would highly recommend it to beginners who are looking to enter the 3D printing hobby or experienced users who need a stable printer with a large build volume.

  • Tevo Tarantula vs Black Widow vs Delta 3D Printers

    Tevo Tarantula vs Black Widow vs Delta 3D Printers

    Tevo is a 3D printing company, known for their Tarantula 3D Printer. Besides Tevo Tarantula, which is i3 Prusa style affordable printer they have two more mid-range printers in store: Tevo Black Widow and Tevo Delta (aka Little Monster).

    Tevo 3D printers
    Tevo currently has 3 printers to offer.

    In this article, I would like to compare these 3D printers side by side. There hasn’t been much information on the web while I was researching Tevo brand, so I decided to make a comparison and features table. Even though these two printers do not look like each other at all, it is essential to emphasize the differences between them, as each of those can be used differently.

    The goal of this article is to show you the differences and help you decide which Tevo printer is right for your needs.

    Tevo Printers Specification

    Specification table below depicts a major feature, technology and design difference between Tarantula, Black Widow and Little Monster (Delta).

    [go_pricing id=”tevo_printers_3d”]

    Tevo Tarantula 3D Printer Kit

    Tevo Tarantula Overview

    Aimed at the entry-level customers, this RepRap Prusa i3 style printer certainly has its advantages over some other i3 clones. Made of aluminum, with a Bowden type extruder and a 200X 200 X 200mm printing area, Tevo Tarantula certainly sounds promising for those which do not wish to break their bank.

    Besides optional heat-bed upgrade, Tevo offers two more features: extruder and auto-leveling sensor upgrade.

    What makes Tarantula stand out from the crowd is that you do not have to ponder over which part is the best, what improvements to add, and how to enhance printer’s performance. The manufacturer did this for you. Of course, both of those improvements will increase the final cost of the printer.

    Tevo Tarantula

    Tevo Tarantula Firmware

    Tarantula’s Repetier firmware is available for download from the official website of Tevo. If you wish to use the Marlin firmware, you may acquire it from other online sources. Make sure that you’re downloading the firmware that is specifically configured for this printer.

    Assembly

    For the Tevo Tarantula assembly process, you may refer directly to the Tevo Tarantula instructions manual provided by the manufacturer. You can also check other online sources where experienced users provide a detailed guide and some useful tips on how to assemble your printer kit correctly.

    How to Calibrate the Tevo Tarantula?

    Calibrating your 3D printer is easy. You just need to locate the thumb nuts on the print bed of the 3D printer. Then, lower or raise the corners of the print bed just enough to allow you to slice a thin sheet of paper right below the nozzle of the printer.

    Tevo Tarantula Parts

    Some of the parts you can purchase for your Tevo Tarantula mods and upgrades are as follows:

    • Heated Bed – for a large, heated bed upgrade
    • TEVO Volcano hotend – for 1.75mm Direct Filament 0.4mm Nozzle
    • Dual Z-Axis Upgrade Kit
    • MKS MOSFET – for the heated bed
    • Print Fan – ideal for a temperature-sensitive filament
    • Mega Anti-Tangle Spool Holder – to prevent tangles from the printer filament

    Tevo Tarantula Upgrades

    If you wish to make your Tarantula a little more than just another “newbie 3D Printing kit”, the manufacturer offers some options. Tevo offers expandable build option for the Tarantula. You can upgrade your heat-bed and increase printing size to 200 x 280 x 200 mm.

    If standard single-color Bowden extruder is not the best for you, you can upgrade it with the following options :

    • Pro Metal – this extruder allows you to print flexible filaments
    • Dual Extruder – this type of extruder allows you to print with two filaments at the same time, multicolor.
    We highly recommended that if you buy, you decide to buy Tevo Tarantula from these official sources |Official AliExpress Store| Official website|

    Besides the extruder upgrade and heat bed expansion, there’s also an optional auto-leveling sensor upgrade which involves installing an auto-leveling probe.

    With the total weight of approximately 7.8kg, Tarantula is the most lightweight of the trio.

    Aimed primarily at lower-budget customers, it is interesting that, according to the specs, its printing speed can reach up to 150mm/s, which is faster than its expensive relative – Tevo Black Widow.

    Tevo Black Widow

    The mid-range 3D printer from Tevo is called Black Widow. Its printing volume is 370 X 250 X 300mm and it weighs ~13kg. This printer is literally midst among everything between the lower-end Tarantula and higher-end Delta. One feature which I am still unable to confirm is that it has only a slower printing speed 100mm/s compared to its little brother – Tarantula.

    Tevo Black Widow

    It’s not as customizable out of the box as the Tarantula, but it has an auto-level sensor optional upgrade. Compared to Tarantula which utilizes wheels on all axes of the aluminum frame to move, the Widow uses the rod for the Z axis.

    Buy Tevo Black Widow from these official sources |Official AliExpress Store| Official website|

    Tevo Delta – Little Monster

    With the printing area of 340 x 500mm and dimensions of 600 X 600 X 1200mm it is not a surprise why this 38kg Delta machine is called Little Monster. The most robust of all three (both by design, weight, and features), Delta has the highest price tag.

    Tevo Delta - Little Monster

    Little monster pretty much dominates in all fields. It can reach up to 300mm/s printing speed, which is nearly twice as fast as the other two. One more major advantage of the Tevo Delta is that it arrives pretty much assembled. According to the manufacturer, 80% of the printer inside the box is assembled, you just have to connect a few parts and you are ready to print.

    With features and the price like this, Delta is probably neither a toy nor a beginner’s 3D printer.

    It is recommended to buy Tevo Delta from these official sources |Official AliExpress Store|  Official website|

    Final Review: Tevo Tarantula vs. Black Widow vs. Little Monster (Delta) – which one is the best?

    I hope that so far you managed to determine which printer best suits your needs. But if you are still undecided, here is my two cents. If you are a newbie on a budget and you wish to get a Tevo printer, you should probably go for the cheapest i3 style printer – the Tarantula Printer Kit. Tarantula DIY Kit offers more than enough customization options to suit almost any beginner’s need. Another good choice for beginners outside of Tevo is the Monoprice Maker Select or Monoprice Select Mini.

    On the other hand, if you want a bit more stable of a printer with larger printing volume above all, but you don’t have a fortune to spend, Black Widow is a logical solution.

    Finally, if you are an advanced user who needs tough, stable 3D printer with enormous printing volume and speed, Tevo Delta Little Monster is probably your best choice.

    Question for you

    Do you have any of these printers? What is your experience with it? Feel free to leave a comment and help us spread the knowledge. We’re waiting to hear back from you.

    Oh, and if you found any mistakes or you’re aware of more differences than provided in this article, I would appreciate if you could share it. Sharing is caring.

    Contributors

    Following members of the community pointed out to some of the mistakes I initially made in the article and helped me make this writing more accurate and complete.

    • Ben Bisares
    • jayiii (reddit)
    • Paco Raap

    Useful Links

  • AnyCubic 3D Printers Compared – I3 Mega vs Kossel vs I3

    AnyCubic 3D Printers Compared – I3 Mega vs Kossel vs I3

    AnyCubic is a 3D printing company from China which has been getting quite a lot of attention from the 3D community lately. Company’s focus is the production of 3d printers, parts, and filaments.

    On their website, I was able to find out that AnyCubic was founded in 2011. Their founder Bryant began making his own 3D printer after previously spending the entire savings on a MakerBot.

    In 2012 they began producing and selling printers. In the next few years, the company was growing, mainly selling their products through AliExpress, Amazon, and eBay.

    The brand name was changed to AnyCubic from Drepart Trade Co in 2015. Today, these guys have over 70 employees and 3 main 3d printers with 2 more in development.

    In this article, I would like to clear the confusion and present to you all the differences between AnyCubic printers. The printers I will compare in this article are :

    • AnyCubic I3 (Pruisa I3 style printer)
    • Kossel (Delta style pritner)
    • AnyCubic I3 Mega

    3 3D printers

    Before we unveil which 3D printer is better I3, Kossel or I3 Mega, I would like to tell you that at the time of writing this article, all the information has been gathered through the internet. I spent hours researching, reaching out to manufacturer, sellers and user groups to verify and make sure all the data is correct.

    That being said, do not take measurements and other information for granted. I haven’t done the measuring of the size, print volume and other important things myself. We will have to rely on official sources and AnyCubic.

    Specs: I3 vs Kossel vs I3 Mega

    The easiest way to compare these three 3D printers is to put them side by side and look at each product specification.

    [go_pricing id=”anycubic_printers”]

    AnyCubic I3

    I3 is the first ever printer made by the manufacturer. It is based on a famous Prusa i3. The printer is quite similar to a popular Anet A8. I3 has an acrylic frame and is the only of the three which has a direct drive extruder.

    AnyCubic i3
    i3 is AnyCubic’s first 3d printer.

    Kossel

    This delta style printer confused me quite a lot. Unlike the other two printers, this one has few variations. Officially, Kossel printer is available in four versions :

    AnyCubic Kossel Variations

    • Kossel Linear (link)
    • Kossel Pulley
    • Kossel Pulley Upgraded (link)
    • Kossel Plus (link)

    What is important about all Kossel models is that they do not come with a heated bed. This means you won’t be able to print anything besides PLA (which does not require heated surface) unless you buy a heat bed separately.

    AnyCubic Kossel Firmware Related FAQs

    What programs can you use with the anycubic kossel?

    The Kossel buyer’s guide lists down the different software that you need before you can create some 3D print. These include the Repertier firmware, Marlin firmware, Arduino, and a few drivers among others.

    The Marlin firmware can be downloaded directly from AnyCubic’s website along with the specific drivers and slicer software for your printer kit. Make sure to download the driver and slicing software that is compatible with your computer’s OS.

    How do you update AnyCubic Kossel auto-leveling firmware?

    You will have to update the Marlin firmware for this one. You can download it from the manufacturer’s website or from other reliable sources.

    Kossel Pulley vs Linear

    The difference between the pulley and the linear version is quite simple. Pulley version uses wheels on the aluminum frame to move. Kossel Linear has standard linear bearings on linear rods which it uses to move around.

    pulley and linear

    In my experience, wheels are always much more silent compared to the bearings, but bearings printers are more accurate and stable.

    Kossel Pulley upgraded is the same as a pulley, but instead of 3D printer parts, a printer has parts which were manufactured by injection molding, making them tougher.

    Kossel vs Kossel Plus

    Kossel Plus is a slightly improved version of Kossel Linear with a larger printing volume, nothing else.

    • Ø180×300 mm
    • Ø230×270 mm plus version
    Kossel and kossel plus
    The improved Kossel Plus has a larger printing area.

    I3 Mega

    AnyCubic’s latest release, I3 Mega is their most advanced 3D printer so far.  This model comes in two colors – black and blue.

    AnyCubic I3 Mega Features

    Besides its metal build quality, easy few minutes assembly and stability it has four features which certainly make it stand out from the crowd.

    • Filament sensor
    • Auto-level sensor
    • Outage resume
    • Touch screen navigation

    This Bowden type printer will detect when you run out of filament and automatically pause until you insert new filament roll.

    Furthermore, it has auto-leveling of the heated bed and will memorize the printing in case of an outage or sudden turn-off. A beautiful touchscreen LCD is responsible for quick and easy user navigation.

    AnyCubic I3 Mega Review

    Some of the things you can be excited about this printer are that it includes an Ultrabase heated bed, mechanical filament sensor, impressive user interface, SD card, and SD card reader, and most of all produces a decent print quality without costing you a fortune.

    However, there are a few complaints raised about this printer as well. For one, the filament spool is said to be of low quality, causing the filament to tangle and ooze out of the printer’s nozzle. Good thing you can use the tweezers and pliers that come with the printer to clean out the nozzle of the excess filament. Other issues included problems with the automatic bed calibration, loose cables, and the noise from the printer.

    Final Thoughts on the Different AnyCubic 3D Printer Models

    There you have it. I hope this comparison article was helpful. If you want my two cents on which one to get, it’s obvious that the newest I3 Mega has the best features and is able to print plenty of materials out of the box. On the other hand, due to its price tag, it might be a bit over your budget. In that case, based on my research, I would probably go with the Kossel Linear Plus model.

    Where to buy AnyCubic 3d printers?

    All of these printers are currently on sale on several websites. Some of these retailers have promotions quite often, so make sure to check all the links in order to get the best deal.

    I would like to thank AnyCubic user group for helping me understand the differences clearer.

    Thanks for taking your time to read this. If you have any questions, feel free to leave a comment. If you notice any sort of error in the table or comparison, I’d like to know. Do you own any of the AnyCubic printers? I’d like to hear your experience.  Don’t just read, leave a comment, come on.

    Helpful AnyCubic links:

     

  • Geeetech 3D Printers Compared

    Geeetech 3D Printers Compared

    Lately, I’ve been addicted to researching Chinese 3D printing brands that took the market for 3D printing by storm. The reason for this is a wide variety of geeetech 3D printers that these companies manufacture and the lack of information and comparison of the models.

    If you’re a regular here you probably read my Anet, AnyCubic or Tevo 3D printer comparison. After the trio, I decided to cover one more well-known Shenzhen-based company  – Geeetech (with three E’s). Little did I know that this quest of mine will be quite a challenge. The main reason for this is an enormous variety of 3D printers that Geeetech launched over the years.

    As I mentioned, Geeetech is Chinese 3D printing manufacturer founded in 2011. Since then, they launched and marketed over 15 different printers.

    In this article, I will compare all Geeetech’s printers ever made. With a little dedication, I will keep it up to date with all the upcoming models. So for all of you out there who wanted to find out more about Geeetech printers and differences between them, I hope you’ll enjoy this article.

    Types of Geeetech Printers

    Since a number of products are so overwhelming, I decided to break this comparison into pieces. First, let’s see what 3D printing models company offers.

    • I3 type 3D printers
    • Delta Rostock type
    • MakerBot type

    All of these are types. For each type Geeetech produced variations over the years. Variations are a result of improvements (quality and safety) and different modifications to satisfy different needs.

    GeeeTech I3 type 3D Printers

    Let’s begin with the most common cheaper printer – I3, popular RepRap Prusa model.

    [go_pricing id=”all_geeetech”]

    Geeetech I3 Mendel

    The very first I3 Mendel type printer of I3 is not included in this table since it’ll take plenty of space and make the table unreadable. This early model was more of a  prototype which has been discontinued for quite a while. However, you can read about that printer on GeeeTech Wiki if you’re interested. It’s outdated and not available for sale anymore.

    Geeetech I3 Aluminum

    As its name implies, this model has an aluminum frame, which is tougher and more stable compared to acrylic ones. With 7.2 kg weight, it’s the most lightweight of all 7 I3 models. This model has the oldest mainboard Sanguinololu and does not support auto-leveling. The printing area size is 200 x 200 x 180mm.

    Geeetech I3 Pro B

    Two major improvements over the I3 Aluminum is that the I3 PRO B comes with an improved motherboard GT2560 which supports auto-leveling. Its frame is acrylic which boosts it’s overall weight to 8.5 and makes it more fragile. You can download the Repetier firmware for this printer directly from Geeetech.

    Geeetech I3 X

    Compared to the two printers above, I3X has an improved heat-bed surface made out of aluminum and slightly smaller printing area 200 x 200 x 170m.

    Geeetech I3 A Pro

    If there’s one printer that stands out from the crowd, that has to be the A PRO. This printer has quite an obvious differences compared to the others. First of all, it is the only one that has the 3-in-1 3D control box. The box contains a power supply, main board, and a 12864 LCD. I3 A Pro is the only printer from the list which has the 3 in 1 control box which reduces the total stress on the frame.

    One more advantage of the printer is that it has an aluminum-made frame and the heat-bed. The disadvantage is that in order to enable auto-leveling some changes to the firmware had to be made, and that’s not quite easy to do (according to Geeetech support). Overall, I3 A gathered best from all previous I3 models and combined it. It has 200x200x190 build area and weights 7.2 kg. The price tag might put some people off.

    BangGood has this printer which is a huge saving compared to the retail price.

    Geeetech I3 W Pro

    I3 W is the only wooden-made printer by Geeetech. It supports auto-leveling. For some reason, this one is the cheapest of all printers. It’s nearly impossible to find it online except in their store (link) and on AliExpress (link).

    Geeetech I3 C

    The main selling point of the I3C is the ability to print with dual-extrusion. Which means it can put different colors layers onto a heat-bed surface. This allows you to print multi-colored objects. It’s printing speed is quite good 60-110 mm/s, but its frame is acrylic and has the non-aluminum heated bed. Also, it does not support the auto-leveling sensor.

    Geeetech I3 M201 Dual

    Most advanced and priciest of all – I3 M201 comes with a different mainboard GTM32 which like the I3C supports dual extrusion. Its hotbed is made out of aluminum and the frame is acrylic. M201 has the largest build size 280 x 210 x 200 and weights the most, approximately 9.5kg.

    The price of this printer can be costly, but I managed to find it much cheaper in these stores: Link 1 | Link 2

    Which Geeetech I3 printer to get?

    If you want my two cents, I would probably go with Geeetech I3 A Pro. Mostly because of its build quality. On the other hand, I3 PRO W appears to have quite good specs for its price, it can be a bargain, though it’s quite hard to find online. If on the other hand, you’re into dual-extrusion and multicolored printing, I3 M201 really looks good, especially at the discounted price.

    GeeeTech Delta Type 3D Printers

    [go_pricing id=”all_geeetech_2″]

    Delta Rostock Mini

    Similar to I3 Mendel, this was the first Delta printer company made. It had 3D printer parts and bakelite platform. The main board was Mega 2560. The printer is no longer available for sale.

    Delta Rostock Mini G2 and G2 Pro

    The successor of the previous printer is G2. There are two variations of G2:

    • G2
    • G2 PRO

    The difference in G2 and G2 PRO is in parts. Opposed to G2 which had 3d printer parts, G2 PRO has metal made ones. G2 is no longer available for sale. G2 PRO has a build area of D:190mm,H:200mm and weights ~9.5kg. It has the aluminum platform and acrylic frame. It uses Bowden type, a single color extruder.

    Geetech Delta Rostock Mini G2S PRO

    This printer has a slightly smaller printing area than it’s predecessor –  D:170mm H:200mm. It’s the biggest advantage is dual extrusion and auto-leveling sensor it includes. Its dual extruder feature allows users to use two different filaments at the same time for a multicolored 3D print. Recommended print speed is from 60 to 120 mm/sec.

    What is strange is that it’s only slightly more expensive compared to G2 PRO even though it offers dual extrusion. For example, you can check the price here

    GeeeTech Delta Rostock 301

    301 is the only printer GeeeTech has that supports triple extrusion. You can print with 3 different filament colors at the same time. You can add an auto-level sensor to it optionally. The printer uses more advanced GTM32 motherboard (Check the price here).

    G2, G2S vs 301?

    If I was to buy a delta printer from GeeeTech, I would without any doubt go with the latest Rostock 301. Not only because of it’s triple color extruder and improved mainboard, but also because of the build volume – D:170mm H:230m and printing speed 80 to 120 mm/sec.

    Makerbot type

    [go_pricing id=”all_geeetech4″]

    Geeetech Me Ducer

    Though not really a Makerbot type, I listed Me Ducer in this list. This printer is no longer on sale. It had a print volume of 180 x 150 x 150mm. This printer is no longer on sale. The Geeetech E180 is based on this printer’s design and comes with some accessories like an SD card for your Gcode files (no SD card reader included), a spare nozzle, a starter filament, and spool holder kit among others.

    Geeetech Me Creator

    A building area of 150 x 150 x 150mm and not supported auto-leveling was probably the reason why MeCreator got discontinued.

    Geeetech Me Creator 2

    Creator 2 is a successor of Creator 1. It’s printing speed goes from 60-80mm/s. Its frame is aluminum made, so is the heated bed. It has Bowden single color extruder and can support auto-leveling sensor.

    GiantArm D200

    The most advanced, newly released and most expensive Geeetech printer so far is GiantArm D200. Features like built-in WiFi, app control and notifications, filament and outage sensors really make this printer stand out from the crowd. It has the biggest printing area and weights staggering 18kg. It’s also the only model with a maximum nozzle temperature of ~230°C.

    Printer speed is from 80 to 110mm/s. Giant Arm D200 has improved GTM32 Pro VC motherboard and power supply. As for user navigation, it features a 4.3″ color touchscreen. Even though its extruder only supports single color, it has other advantages such as easy slide removal. I am not 100% confident, but the extruder looks quite similar to a renewed E3D Titan.

    GiantARM D200 can print the largest amount of filaments compared to all other Geeetech printers. The printer itself is extremely user-orientated but has a staggering price tag.

    Geeetech 3D Printer Review: Final Thoughts on our Geeetech 3D Printer Models Comparison

    Thanks for taking your time to read this. I sincerely hope this comparison was helpful. Remember that this is only the specs, features and hardware comparison. I haven’t tested these printers side by side, so my personal choices have been made only by my common sense and not real-life testing. This article is not a review, just a side by side specs comparison.

    If you own any of these printers, feel free to let me know in the comments what is your experience with Geeetech.

    I would like to thank the following people for helping me do the research:

    • Zina Luo from Geeetech support for tirelessly answering all my questions regarding their products and helping me discover

    This article is a work in progress. If you notice any mistakes or have feedback, please let me know, I’ll gladly update the information.

  • In-Depth Review: Flying Bear DLP 3D Printer (Shine UV Resin Color Touch Screen)

    In-Depth Review: Flying Bear DLP 3D Printer (Shine UV Resin Color Touch Screen)

    In-Depth Review: The Flying Bear DLP 3D Printer Shine UV Resin Color Touch Screen.
    The Flying Bear DLP 3D printer’s messy but fun to play with. The detail in the prints is crazy high. Plus it works great and I barely had any problems with it.

    3D printing has been a wonderful hobby. The kids like it, the wife not so much. But she tolerates it because she knows anything positive to take my mind off my chronic pain is a good thing. I can only do so much at a time, but it’s better than nothing.

    Until now it has been Fused Deposition Modelling (FDM, also known as FFF, or fused filament fabrication), which takes spools of plastic and extrudes the plastic at a small width (.4mm most common). This process places them layer upon layer. There are many types of 3D printers that use a variety of materials including metal powder, PLA filament, and liquid resins. Metal printers are industrial-grade and very expensive, and back when I started this hobby the resin printers cost over $2000.

    Resin printers are also known as Stereolithography. That is the process of projecting an image to cure the resin. With DLP 3D printing, a digital light processing(DLP) provides a light source for curing the materials to form the objects through an LCD screen.

    The recent influx of cheaper FDM printers was a sign of  DLPs coming down in price. From over $2000 down to less than $1000. This one is less than $600 USD at the time of writing this review.

    The Flying Bear DLP 3D printer has been a messy but fun printer to play with. The detail in the prints is crazy high. This printer works well and I had very few problems with it.

    Photo of the Flying Bear DLP 3D Printer
    The Flying Bear DLP 3D Printer.

    The Flying Bear DLP 3D Printer: Specifications

    [go_pricing id=”flying-bear-sla-dlp-3d-printer-specs”]

    The printer specs are similar to those of other SLA and DLP printers. I’m assuming the cost of the resin is the reason for the small print size. This printer has a 120 x 68 x 210mm build volume which is quite small in terms of 3D printing, but not for SLAs or DLPs. The board or screen has WiFi built in and is configured through a text file. I’m not sure if it’s my WiFi network or the printer, but I haven’t been able to get it working. It connects to my network but not to any of the software. The 4-inch colour touchscreen is a great interface, much better than the text and turn-dial menu system.

    Unboxing the Newest Flying Bear Shine UV Resin DLP Color Touch Screen 3D Printer

    The printer was well protected in the box with foam shaped to the contours of the printer. The tools were packed inside the printer in their own foam box. This 3D printer comes with a power supply, rubber gloves,  a scraper and an Allen key. It was supposed to come with a bottle of resin but it wasn’t there. I contacted the company and they said they can’t export the resin to some countries. Which I don’t believe, because I can buy resins from any other site.

    Unboxing the Flying Bear DLP 3D Printer
    Flying Bears sends this 3D printer securely packed in foam.
    Unboxing the printer.
    Once you remove the styrofoam, you can unwrap it.
    Photo of the Flying Bear Shine UV DLP Resin 3D printer in pristine condition.
    The Flying Bear Shine UV DLP Resin 3D printer in pristine condition.
    The Photo of the Flying Bear DLP 3D Printer - front view.
    A frontal view of the new Flying Bear DLP 3D printer.
    Photo of Flying Bear Shine with the User Manual.
    Lift the cover to finish unpacking the printer. The Flying Bear Shine comes with a user manual.
    Photo with a rear view of the printer.
    A rear view of the printer.

    Printer Navigation

    The touchscreen is a very nice full-color display. The main screen has a seven-button layout. Three of those are basic commands. You can click the others to display screens with controls, settings, and information.

    Photo of first set of options on the printer's LCD screen.
    The first screen displays a menu with your options for printing, controls, and settings, shutting the printer down, displaying printer info, stopping a print job, and information about the company.

    The first button brings you to the Print screen. To prevent accidental starts, you first have to confirm that you want to print.

    Screen cap with printer options.
    When you’re about to print, this screen shows you the file you’ve selected and tells you if the printer’s ready to print.

    The Control button takes you to a screen where you can do things like adjust the axis and turn the LED on or off.

    This screen lets you set the controls before printing.
    Here, you can choose from more options – or stop the printer if you need to.

    Next is the Settings screen. The display consists of two files. The first is the sysconf (system configuration) which I won’t mess with. The other is the wificonf where you can enter two lines; your WiFi SSID and the password.

    Screen shot with printer's sysconfig and wifi connection options.
    Here you can add your WiFi connection and password to connect the printer to your network.

    When you click the (for info) option, the following screen appears with your IP address, screen mode, and other information.  like the IP address for your network.

    The i (info) option displays a screen with your IP address, screen mode, and more.
    When you click the i option, information about your network and the printer appears.

    The fifth button simply powers down the machine. The next is the emergency stop. This isn’t for stopping the print, it’s to stop the homing if there is a problem. To stop the print there is a stop button on the print screen.

    Last is the Company info screen.

    Company Info screen for Flying Bear printers.
    This screen tells you the model name (Flying Bear Shine), the tech support email, and other information in case you need help.

    Print Quality

    I expected the quality of this printer to be awesome, but it is better than I expected. I have seen many prints online and have wanted an SLA or DLP printer for a long time. It is only recently that companies like Flyingbear released DLP printers cheap enough for everybody. On FDM prints the .1 layer height has been considered high quality. On the DLP as well as the SLA, .1 is considered low quality and .025 is high quality. At those resolutions the layer lines are almost invisible.

    Print of the Eiffel Tower

    The first print I wanted to do was the Eiffel Tower. I have always liked this model and it’s usually one that is done when showing off a DLP or SLA printer. It printed very well but I messed up the post-processing. I dipped it in alcohol then put it in the sun. The problem is that resin that remained between the parts has left a thin film of resin that hardened there.

    Photo of printout of Eiffel Tower: Front view.
    Printout of Eiffel Tower: Front view.
    Second photo of Eiffel Tower printout - overhead view.
    Eiffel Tower printout with an overhead view.
    Photo of Eiffel Tower 3D printout with closeup of the top.
    Eiffel Tower 3D printout with a closeup of the top.
    Photo of Eiffel Tower 3D printout with closeup of the bottom.
    Eiffel Tower 3D printout with a closeup of the bottom.

    Print of a Medieval Castle

    Another model I love that is popular for showing the detail your printer can print is a castle on a hill with lots of tiny trees. And if you look at the image of the bottom you will see another mistake I made. Putting it in the sun in the window made it stick to the wood a bit and pulled off a bit of the finish.

    Photo of medieval castle front view.
    Print of medieval castle with trees.
    Photo of melted part of medieval castle.
    This part of the castle was too close to a sunny window.
    Detail of trees surrounding medieval castle.
    Closeup of trees from medieval castle print.
    Photo of medieval castle - front view.
    Print of medieval castle from the front.

    Print of a Green Lantern Ring

    Being a DC comic fan I, of course, had to print a Green Lantern ring. It was my first attempt at adding manual supports. My supports stuck too well, and I had to cut them off the ring.

    Green Lantern ring 1 - front view

    Green Lantern ring 2 - side view

    Green Lantern ring 3 - rear view

    Prints of Flash and Superman Rings

    After that, I thought I would give the Flash and Superman rings a try. I tried them by placing them face down on the build plate. The problem with that is the liquid pools on the ring – so it cures as it cures.

    Failed print of Superman rings

    Failed print of Superman rings

    When I purchased the resin I chose green for the Green Lantern ring and Kryptonite. Superman is my favorite of all the comic book heroes so of course I needed to print some kryptonite. The giant Lego kryptonite was a great option.

    Kruptonite 3 - front view - closeup

    Kruptonite 3 - front view - closeup

    Print of Superman’s Fortress of Solitude

    I found this cute little model of Superman’s Fortress of Solitude. It should be printed in white or clear resin, but I only have green for now.

    Fortress pring 1 - front view

    Fortress print 2

    fortress 3 - overhead view - closeup

    Print of Skull Dice.

    My last model is of the skull dice. It didn’t work. I suspect it was because there is no drainage, or the resin isn’t clear enough to see it.

    Skull Dice

    Skull Dice

    Software

    DLP and SLA slicing software is different from FDM slicing software. The company gives out the program called “FLYINGBEAR-Shine slicer” and “Creation workshop”. I’m not sure if it’s developed in house or if it’s a derivative of an open source software.

    The supports are different on DLP printers and have to be added through third party software such as Autodesk Meshmixer. The included slicer works great and odd times it will connect through FTP to the printer over the network. You can then upload prints to do on the printer. The Creation Workshop is another slicer that looks good but compared to the Flyingbear one, overcly omplicated. I stuck with the Flyingbear one because it worked most of the time. That, and the slicing time for the Creation Workshop takes a lot more time. Slicing creates an image for every layer, and then the printer prints each layer all at once where FDM uses G-code. The G-Code is just commands for the motors to move the tool-head line by line.

    Printer software display - Eiffel Tower printout Printer software

    Printer software

    Printed Tools

    There are no “upgrades” or “modifications” for this printer, but there are tools to print and use. Although, you need an FDM printer to print these.

    The first and the one I use the most is this lid to keep the resin-covered when not in use. This is one I designed myself in Fusion 360.

    Vat cover
    Vat cover.

    Next is a drain tray to let the build plate drip the resin in the tray. I found it faster and easier to use the scraper that came with the printer, and to push it off the build plate.

    SLA printer drip tray.

    PROS

    • High accuracy
    • Strong material
    • Tinted cover to see how the print is going
    • Big bright touchscreen controls
    • Easy to learn
    • WiFi uploading
    • 2K LCD with resolution up to 2550 x 1440
    • Z-Axis adopts Ball Screw to improve printing accuracy and stability

    CONS

    • Glitchy WiFi
    • Small build volume
    • Supports are difficult
    • Messy post-processing
    • Needs lots of room for baths and tools.

    Evaluation

    People online who have DLP printers say these are very messy. I now actually know how messy it really is. You need more space than with FDM printers, despite the printer being smaller. You need room for an alcohol bath and paper towels and a soapy water bath. It’s a lot, but worth it.

    I keep the water and alcohol in Tupperware containers that seal airtight. DLP printers are a great idea if you want to print figures or anything you want printed with super fine detail and almost no layer lines. It has a high precision Z-axis ball screw. If the WiFi would work at all times it’d be that much better, and it could be so for you.

    I can’t wait to see DLP become mainstream. That will happen when the cost of resin gets lower as the cost of printers did. It will happen just like it did for filament and FDM printing.

    Types of resins aren’t as clear as FDM filaments. The Wanhao resin I purchased is made for Wanhao SLA printers. There is no smell but it’s good advice to keep the room well ventilated, and using gloves in handling.

    resin

    Before I had an DLP printer, I would advise against buying one as your first printer. Now I would say, go for it. Yeah, the resin cost more but it won’t be long before its price drops. Even without the promised resin, the Flyingbear shine is a great choice for a great price.

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  • The Tevo Michelangelo 3D Printer: A Review

    The Tevo Michelangelo 3D Printer: A Review

    Pevly review: Tevo Michelangelo 3D printer with samples of amazing things you can print.
    If you have limited space and you want a 3D printer you can’t go wrong with the Tevo Michelangelo. It’s lightweight and compact, yet very robust.

    I’m the type of person who thinks BIGGER is always better. When it comes to 3D printing I select mostly large volume printers. Then I got this little printer sent to me from Tevo for a review. The Michelangelo has a build volume of 150X150X150. This little guy has changed my mind!

    The great thing is that most models online are sliced up to print on smaller machines. You also have the option to scale the models down or in some cases, you can slice the prints into smaller parts on your own with the Meshmixer program which is free and easy to learn. 

    The Tevo Michelangelo 3D Printer: Specifications

    [go_pricing id=”tevo-michelangelo”]

    Unboxing

    Unboxing this printer was a breeze. It comes fully assembled, except the four feet which could easily be done at the factory. Either way it’s simple to install them on your own.

    Photo: Tevo Michelangelo 3D printer - assembly.
    The Tevo Michelangelo 3D Printer comes fully assembled, but if you ever need to take it apart, it’s easy to reassemble yourself.
    Photo: Tevo Michelangelo in the box.
    Unpacking the box.
    Photo: Tevo Michelangelo components with assembly manual.
    The Tevo Michelangelo comes fully assembled, but has an assembly manual in case you need it.

    Unpacking the Michelangelo.

    Unpacking the Michelangelo.

    SD Card

    The SD card contains 2 sample GCODE files as well as the manual in pdf format. It also contains a copy of the Repetier-host software.

    Software

    The Repetier-Host software on the SD card is not my favourite program to use with printers. The software just “hosts” a slicer engine. A slicer is a program that slices the 3D object into layers, then turns it into instructions the printer can understand. If you need a free program then I would recommend Slic3r or Cura, but if you can afford it I would recommend Simplify3D.

    Print Quality

    The Michelangelo doesn’t come with a heated bed. This limits the types of filaments you can print with. Basically, it limits you to PLA and TPU. PLA is the most common filament and TPU is a flexible filament. The reason for this is because PLA and TPU don’t require heat to keep it from curling up as it cools down.

    Photo: Tevo Michelangelo printer on desk.
    The Tevo Michelangelo 3D printer’s footprint’s barely larger than a regular inkjet. 
    Michelangelo printer bed with Magigoo adhesive applied.
    Before printing, I applied Magigoo to the printer bed. This adhesive keeps 3D objects in place while being printed, then allows easy removal. Magigoo lasts for over 100 prints, plus it’s odourless and safe to use. Better yet, you can easily wipe it off with water.

    Tevo Michelangelo printer unpacked and ready to go.

    Tevo Michelangelo LCD monitor..
    This 3D printer also has an LCD monitor so you can check the status of your print job.

    The Tevo Michelangelo 3D Printer with PLA Filament

    This printer got off to a bit of a rocky start. I printed the included Wave test GCODE file it printed well until about 90% of the way up. That is when the layers started to shift on the X-axis.

    WaveTest G-Code 3D printout.
    This Wavetest printout out great until it shifted on its X-axis when the file was 90 percent done.

    Closeup of the wave test.

    I printed a couple of dinosaurs for a friend and a couple of Benchis (benchmarks). They have a lot of layer shifting and artifacts. I wasn’t sure what was going on. After some troubleshooting, I discovered the small grub screws that hold the pulley to the motor shaft was loose on the X-axis.

    Tevo Michelangelo - PLA filaments. T-Rexes.
    At first, the T-Rexes has some layer shifting and artifacts while printing on the Tevo Michelangelo.

    Melting T-Rex

    print waste.
    There’s also more waste than I would like.
    Pink "Benchi" tugboat with printing issues.
    The Benchi (benchmarks) tugboats had the same layer shifting and artifacts until I figured out how to fix it.

    pink benchi tugboat

    Yellow benchi tugboat bottom with letters.

    Yellow "Benchi" tugboat with printing issues.

    Last yellow "benchi" tugboat from side close up.

    After tightening those screws I printed a new Benchi, a dinosaur, and a statue of Captain America. They came out way better than I expected. I got the same quality I get from the Tevo Tornado and JGAurora A5 which is saying something.

    Photo: Yellow benchi tugboat with printer issues fixed. Side view.
    Yellow Benchi tugboat with printer issue fixed.

    Photo: Yellow benchi tugboat with printer issues fixed. View of bottom with lettering.

    Photo: Yellow "benchi" tugboat with printer issues fixed. Side view.

    Photo: Pink T-Rex 3D printout with printing issue fixed.
    T-Rex 3D printout with printing issue fixed.

    Pink T-Rex - other side view with printer issues fixed.

    3D printout - Tevo Michelangelo - blue Captain America.
    Captain America 3D printout on Tevo Michelangelo with printing issue fixed – closeup view.
    Blue Captain America 3D printout on Tevo Michelangelo.
    3D printout of Captain America with the full-length view.

    The smaller build volume doesn’t keep this printer from practical printing. I purchased a new set of jewelers screwdrivers for my workbench. I plan to use them quite often and don’t want to get out the case and open it then put them back when I’m done. So I opened Fusion 360 which is a free computer aided drawing (CAD) for students and Hobbyists.

    Then I designed the cool little holder that I can screw to the side of the desk and have easy access to the screwdrivers. It printed easy and is plenty strong enough to hold them and not break if it gets knocked by something or someone.

    3D printout with blue set of jeweler screwdrivers.
    The Tevo Michelangelo also printed out the handles and holder for these jeweler screwdrivers.
    Holder for jewelers screwdrivers.
    Blue holder for the jewelers screwdrivers.

    I love playing in Fusion 360. There are plenty of free YouTube or other online tutorials to get you started. There are also plenty of advanced tutorials. I get a sense of accomplishment when I print something I came up with in my head.

    The last PLA print is the Moon City from Thingiverse.com. This is a beautiful model and the detail is amazing. The Michelangelo printed it beautifully and got all the details perfectly.

    Red 3d printout of Moon City from Thingiverse.com.
    Red Tevo Michelangelo 3D printout of Moon City from Thingiverse.com (front).

     

    Photo - Red printout of Moon City (rear view)
    Red Tevo Michelangelo 3D printout of Moon City from Thingiverse.com (back).

    (For more on the above 3D printouts, see my review of Neat PLA Filament.)

    The Tevo Michelangelo 3D Printer with TPU Filament

    Flexible filaments are good for things like phone cases and RC tires. I usually print soft toys for the kids. My friend asked me to print some dinosaurs for a 3-year-old. I chose this low polygon dino because it would print well in TPU. The Michelangelo has the same extruder as the Tevo Tornado so I knew it would print TPU without any issues.

    Tevo Michelangelo 3D Printer -- TPU filament -- green Godzilla - 3/4 view
    Green Godzilla, with TPU filament and a Tevo Michelangelo 3D Printer.

    Tevo Michelangelo 3D Printer -- TPU filament -- green Godzilla - other side

    Tevo Michelangelo 3D Printer -- TPU filament -- green Godzilla -- being held.

    Tevo Michelangelo 3D Printer -- TPU filament -- green Godzilla

    Tevo Michelangelo 3D Printer -- TPU filament -- green Godzilla

    Video with the Tevo Michelangelo Printing

    Modifications

    The Michelangelo doesn’t need any modifications. The one I did was a spool holder that mounts to the top of the Z extrusion. You can see it on Thingiverse.

    Photo of Tevo Michelangelo spool holder on Thingiverse.
    Tevo Michelangelo spool holder on Thingiverse.

    Pros and Cons

    Pros

    • This printer is among the best prints I have seen yet! I am blown away by how well it prints.
    • The Titan extruder works great and has little to no space after the gear. This makes printing with flexible filaments much better.
    • The extruded aluminum frame uses wheels instead of bearing on smooth rods. Rods can bend easily and bearings wear out.
    • Comes pre-built
    • Tevo has done a great job making their printers look nice as well as print nice. The logos and boot screens have been well executed.

    Cons

    • No spool holder. Hard to print without a spool holder, you have to make a makeshift one until you can print one.
    • No heated bed. This is a con but most only print with PLA anyway.

    FINAL JUDGMENT

    If you have limited space and you want a 3D printer you can’t go wrong with the Tevo Michelangelo. It is easy to move around because it’s light and all one piece. The printer doesn’t come with a spool holder but it’s simple to jerry-rig something to print one. The front access SD card is the best I have seen on any printer I have owned to date. They usually have them on the side back or behind the LCD screen.

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