Category: Creality3D

  • Creality Ender 3: Review

    Creality Ender 3

    Creality 3d printer

    [amazon fields=”B07BR3F9N6″ value=”button”]

    Does the Creality Ender 3 live up to the hype? Just like all the other communities, the 3D printing has its share of hyped up products. As the community grew with budget kits one printer stood out for being the first under $500 and needing little to no modifications to get great prints. That of course is the Creality CR10. Although it wasn’t without flaws and the users were quick to release improvements. Creality soon released updates to the CR10 calling it the CR10S. All the other chinese printer companies like Tevo, Anet and Tronxy followed with their own “clones” of the CR10. I use quotes because Anet tried going cheap with crappy parts and failed. Tevo copied the frame completely. Which I really liked. The Tornado being my favorite printer.

    Then Creality tried to cash in on the popularity of the CR10 with the CR10 Mini. For some reason the mini didn’t get hyped. Maybe it was timing maybe it was price. The Creality Ender 3 is super cheap and prints okay. It isn’t without issues though.

    [amazon box=”B07BR3F9N6″ template=”table”]

     

    creality 3d printer

    Creality Ender 3: Specifications

    ModelEnder-3
    Modeling TechnologyFDM (Fused Deposition Modeling)
    Printing Size220*220*250mm
    Machine Size510*400*190mm
    Package weight8.6kg
    Max Traveling Speed180mm/s
    Filament1.75mm PLA,TPU,ABS
    InputAC 100-265V 50-60Hz
    OutputDC 24V 15A 360W
    Layer Thickness0.1-0.4mm
    Nozzle diameter0.4mm
    Precision±0.1mm
    File FormatSTL, OBJ, G-Code
    Working ModeOnline or SD offline
    Max Nozzle Temperature255℃
    Max Hot bed Temperature110℃

    Unboxing

    The Creality Ender 3 comes well packed in foam and with the extrusions wrapped with plastic wrap. Included in the box are the standard tools that come with the cheap kits. Typically that includes alen keys to put the printer together, a spatula as well as side cutters for trimming your prints.

    unboxing 3d printerunboxing parts

    SD Card

    The included 8Gig micro SD card has the standard assembly instructions and test files. I’m not good with pre sliced gcode files being included because the temp and settings chosen when sliced are specific to the filament and the users filament is likely different. And the included filament is usually too short to even print the test file. The SD card does include the driver and a copy of the free open source slicer software Cura. probably an out of date version as it’s update quite often now. Also included is a Troubleshootings pdf file.

    It is nice to have the SD card included. The micro SD card reader on the other hand is a piece of junk. Mine corrupted every card I put into it. I had to reformat them. Luckily I had a few others laying around.

    Assembly

    Building the ender is quite simple and the assembly guide was pretty straight forward. The base comes pre assembled. That is an issue for me because, as I have seen so many times before they don’t take care when assembling. In the case of the Creality Ender 3 there is a lot of people with a twisted base. Mine included. Maybe it is one person at creality assembling them with a crooked table. Also there is always loose screws that sometimes show in your prints. You can check out my Tevo Michelangelo  review to see what I mean.

    With the base built and the electronics done for you assembly is quick and easy. Mine has hot glue on all the wire connections which is bad if you need to remove one for troubleshooting or modifications. For any printer you buy needs to have pre assembled parts double checked.

    Software

    The SD card comes with two versions of Cura slicer software. An older version which I think works better then the newest one, and a newer version which is already outdated. A slicer is a program that slices the 3D object into layers, then turns it into instructions the printer can understand. If you need a free program then I would recommend Slic3r or Cura, but if you can afford it I would recommend Simplify3D.

    cura

    Print Quality

    The Ender 3 printer prints as well as the other sub $500 printers which is good because they can print as well as the expensive 3D printers. Not as consistently but most of the time. Although they need a bit of tinkering to get that level. Some even need you to spend extra money but not to much.

    PLA Filament

    PLA is my favorite filament. It prints very easily and prints well. I chose to stick with PLA for almost all prints. I have other filaments on hand for niche needs. HTPLA is a PLA that prints with higher temps. It allows you to anneal your prints for extra strength.

    I printed the 2 puppy models that came on the SD card. The kids in my wifes daycare loved them because they are big fans of the paw patrol TV show.

    puppy

    One of the best reasons to own a 3D printer is Cosplay. Before Halloween my son asked me to print some parts for his Halloween costume. I printed some goggles and a cane for him. The cane ran out of filament in the middle of the night which is a bit crazy since a filament runout sensor for a cent or two. The sensor will pause the print until you change the filament.That is one feature I put on all my printers that don’t come with them and will do the same to the Ender 3. It’s a simple thing to add and makes the printer better.

    googlesgooglesgooglescane

    I printed the mask for my sons costume on a bigger printer and he put the goggles on and painted it. It turned out great.

    mask

    The rest of my PLA prints are mods for the printer to help functionality and looks. See more in the modification section.

    TPU Filament

    TPU is a flexible filament that is good when you need a rubber type surface for things like tires, phone cases and hinges. I printed poison bottles for my sons costume but they didn’t turn out so well. I reprinted in PLA on the JGAurora A5.

    bottles

    [amazon box=”B00TI3JUTM,B01M63ZVUJ,B07DPLV4PC” template=”table”]

    Creality Ender 3: Modifications

    mods

    Modifications can serve a practical purpose or be just for looks. Some mods are a necessity though. For instance the Z alignment on the Ender 3 is so far off it needs something between the motor and the frame. If not it will bind when you try moving it. I used 2 of the cheap punched out wrenches that they send with printers for removing the nozzles. This seems to be a widespread problem because there are over 10 fixes for it on Thingiverse.com. I believe it has been corrected in the newer versions. I’m not sure how some of these things get past quality control.

    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2925230

    After the Z alignment fix I was able to print items over 10cm. So next I printed the Muscle car Scoop to cover the oddly placed nainboard fan. The fan is below the bed and hotend bits of filament will get in and could break the blades. Also tools or screws could fall in and short out the board. Luckily someone made this awesome muscle car scoop to divert the flow and protect the fan and mainboard.  https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3150741

    Next I printed a cool drawer to hold tools, screws and spare parts. It fits perfectly between the center bed rail and the right frame that the display is connected to. I chose to use multiple colors for my mods so the printer doesn’t look so plain. They put the dragon logo on the bed and display which is more than most of the cheaper printers do. Tevo being my favorite when it comes to style.

    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2989218

    Another handy print is this little Yoda feeder guide. This helps you turn the extruder motor to feed the filament through the PTFE tube to the hot end. There are other style feeders but I like Yoda so I chose that one.

    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3141160

    The last mod that should be done and does help your prints is the Bullseye filament cooling fan duct. There are plenty of fan ducts but this one works great and doesn’t take to much room on the extruder carriage.

    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2759439

    Other mods that are more form then function are:

    Filament guide to keep the filament off the threaded Z rod. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2920344

    A Display cover. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2987100

    Wire clips to keep the display wire from dangling. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2960375

    Rubber TPU feet to help keep vibrations quieter. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3020865/files

    A cable holder to keep the extruder and x carriage wires from snagging the bed.

    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2949858

    Last and strictly for show, an X axis motor cover with the dragon logo on it.

    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2924288

    Creality Ender 3: Pros and Cons

    I’m not sure what this is and I haven’t seen this before but ½ way through all the prints I did the wheels had this odd dust on them. Both the X and Y axis.

    PROS

    • Good Print Quality
    • Good Solid Frame
    • Slim and Stylish
    • Great Price
    • Big Bed leveling knobs

    CONS

    • On board drivers
    • Mods needed shouldn’t be up to the user to add or figure out.

    PRINT QUALITY: 8/10

    BUILD QUALITY: 7/10

    USER INTERFACE & NAVIGATION: 7/10

    VALUE FOR MONEY: 9/10

    Creality Ender 3: Final Summary

    After all the hype and putting this printer together and having the Z bind up I wasn’t impressed. I went to the Creality facebook group for answers and found it was wide spread. After fixing it and cooling off for all the extra work, I printed a few things and was impressed. This little printer at its current price is pretty good and easy to recommend. Is it perfect? Not really, but better then anything in its price range.

  • Creality3D CR-10 – 3D Printer Review (Large print volume)

    Creality3D CR-10 – 3D Printer Review (Large print volume)

    3D Printing is perhaps one of the most exciting advancements in technology that a lot of people are now interested in learning. However, a  Creality3D CR-10 printer is significantly more expensive than a regular printer. Not to mention the additional cost of the filament that you need to print a 3D object.

    The Creality CR-10 is a good example of a 3D printer. In fact, it is regarded as one of the best performing printers in its price range. That said, this review will cover all the essential things you need to know about the Creality CR-10.

    What is the Creality CR-10?

    The Creality3D CR-10 is an FDM 3D printer which managed to shake the 3D printing community. In a very short time, it became one of the most popular mid-range 3D printers together with Anet’s A8 and A6. What makes CR-10 so special that it has twice the price compared to the other kit printers?

    3D printer
    CR-10 is popular, large volume 3D printer

    First of all, CR-10 comes nearly assembled. Other kit printers take a couple of hours to complete from scratch, whereas the CR-10 takes only a few minutes. Second, it has a huge printing volume of 300mm x 300mm x 400mm. The biggest question is, is CR-10 worth the ~500$ price tag?

    In this review, I will try to figure that out. I will unwrap it, assemble it and print tons of stuff to test its performance, durability, print quality, and safety.

    CR-10 variations

    With the rising popularity of the CR-10, Creality 3D released few more versions of the printer. The only difference between the versions is in the printing volume and of course – the price. Larger the volume, higher the pricing. Additionally larger printing volume models included a 2x 1K roll of filament.

    So far CR-10 can be found in these sizes :

    • 300 x 300 x 400 mm (link) – standard
    • 300 x 220 x 300 mm (link) – known as CR-10 Mini
    • 400 x 400 x 400 mm (link)
    • 500 x 500 x 500 mm (link)

    Update: Creality 3D released CR-10S which is a dual lead screw Z axis printer and has filament sensor.

    CR-10 Specification

    In this review, I’ll take a look at the most standard CR-10 model, the below table shows the technical specification of the product.

    Printer modelCreality 3D CR-10
    Printing size300*300*400mm
    Printer Dimensions490*600*615mm
    Printer Weight10.3kg
    Print speed20mm/s – 100mm/s
    Layer resolution0.05mm – 0.4mm
    Axis positioning accuracy0.01mm – X

    0.002mm Z

    Material diameter1.75mm
    Printer Frame MaterialMetal
    Platform board materialAluminum
    MainboardTriGorilla
    Pre-assembled

    90% pre-assembled

    Screen
    Extruder typeMK10 Bowden
    Heated Bed
    Max Nozzle Temperature~250-270°C
    Max Heatbed Temperature~71°C
    Auto-leveling sensorx
    Filament sensorx
    Resume from outagex
    Enclosurex
    Recommended MaterialABS / PLA / Wood / Nylon
    Power Input110V/220V AC, 50/60Hz
    Retail priceCheck the price

    CR-10 Unboxing

    I received my CR-10 from BangGood. The box arrived looking tired, but everything was well packed in foam and has everything needed to get started. My oldest daughter has an unboxing video located below.

    https://youtu.be/nWRias_H8As

    What’s inside the box?

    3D printer parts and manuals

    • 1x CR-10 3D printer
    • 1x rack shelf stack
    • 1x sheet metal wall
    • 10x cable
    • 1x pilers
    • 1x scraper
    • 1x power adapter
    • 1x USB cable
    • 1x certification
    • 1x hose
    • 1x socket wrench
    • 1x 8G SD Card
    • 1x T Z Fixed Block / Z limit
    • 1x T Z Fixed Block
    • 1x tape
    • a bunch of screws, bearings, nuts, and washers
    • 1x nozzle
    • 2x tube connector
    • several alien wrenches
    • 1x screwdriver

    Creality CR-10 Assembly

    After unboxing it’s time to assemble the CR-10. Even though some newbies might think this part is scary, it’s actually quite easy. Two of my daughters helped me and had some fun along the way.

    Inside the box, you’ll find the printed building directions. However, they are quite blurry and vague. On the other hand, the pdf manual, which can be found on the SD card is great. It contains a sufficient amount of information to assemble.

    The hardware was not complicated either.  I can’t stress this enough, but the whole process was straightforward. The CR 10 came in two pieces: the base and the Z axis. Eight screws connect the two main parts. And that’s pretty much everything. The frame is completed.

    Next came the cable wiring and they are all bundled and very clearly labeled. My desire for organization greatly appreciated this. This printer came with an SD card containing plenty of information for new and experienced printers; operating instructions, a basic troubleshooting guide, slicing software, and even screen grabs of the settings they used when slicing the included .stl files.

    CR-10 Cura Setting

    Cura is one of the many slicing software compatible with the Creality CR-10. You can use the default settings or make some adjustments according to your needs. For beginners, you can check online discussions and forums where other users of CR-10 share some useful information about the different settings they use. Also, you may want to save your g-code to the Micro-SD card that came with the printer for convenience.

    Design and Build quality

    From the aesthetic point of view, CR-10 looks quite unique. It has stripes on the frame which make it stand out from other printers. Lately, some other manufacturers began copying the same stripe design (Anet E10).

    3D printer

    The frame is quite sturdy and the slot bearings are quiet and a very smooth motion, only 2 needed tightening upon arrival. I feel this is a great printer design and I would only make one change to the frame and one change to the carriage. Details about these can be seen in the upgrades section.

    The 300mm x  300mm hotbed took a bit to warm up and kept the room warm, but at that size, it is expected. Leveling the bed was quick and nearly painless.

    CR-10 Upgrades

    I upgraded my previous printer, the Anet A6 multiple times. I worked to improve extrusion which is how much filament is extruded with each step on the motor for this I added a Greg’s Wade geared extruder, I printed frame braces to improve stability and enable me to add tension to the belts which help reduce wobble. I added an e3dv6 hotend to improve print quality and used a Bowden setup to lighten the carriage.

    Two printers
    Two of my printers, Anet A6 on the left, CR10 on the right. While A6 required some upgrades and modifications, CR-10 works the same right out of the box

    All this except the Wade extruder come built into the CR-10. This makes it a great print out of the box printer. Just to give you an idea on how much improvements some 3D printers need, take a look at Anet A8 upgrades list.

    Because most issues a printer may encounter are engineered out of the design I will only be putting a cross piece to stabilize the Z axis and lessen wobble and a better parts fan. There are several great designs available on thingiverse.com at the minimum I would recommend everyone get the upgrade available that lessens stress to the heated bed wires solder joints.

    So far, I had no need for other modifications and upgraded or printed parts. If I come across a worthwhile piece or upgrade, I will update the article.

    User interface and navigation

    Loading the filament with the MK-10 extruder was quick and easy and the filament flows wonderfully. The display is nice and bright with adjustable contrast. The dial navigation made selecting in the menu a breeze. I do feel the grouping of the menu items could use a little work. However, I may be biased since I am more familiar with my other printer. My daughters were able to navigate the menus themselves.

    However, I may be biased since I am more familiar with my other printer. My daughters were able to navigate the menus themselves.

    3D printer

    The display shows bed/nozzle temps both set point and current value so you know exactly where the printer is running, flow rate so if you notice either over extrusion (too much material) or under extrusion (too little material), fan speed If the part is too warm you can also adjust this while live printing and live display of each axis coordinate which is nice since these are set during slicing and tuning may be required to maintain a quality print. It would be good to mention the progress bar is not a representation of % completed but layers completed.

    Printing quality

    Luckily only two test kitties were lost to loss of adhesion. Some glue stick and away she printed. The stock kitty stl has had several weird loops it made while printing then the y-axis seemed to have shifted at the neck I couldn’t let the poor kitty suffer when it shifted again. I’m going to blame the file.

    It turns out some sd cards have a corrupt kitty stl affectionately named decapi-cat on the CR-10 forums. It is kind of like an initiation step in owning a CR-10. There is even a cleaned up version of the decapitated cat that has been modeled.

    It was time for a bench and the bench came through and I am very impressed by the print quality. It wasn’t perfect but that is remedied by changing settings. At 80mm/s the printer was quieter than I am used to.

    Having printed multiple items on the CR-10 I can say I am impressed. The overhangs are well formed with no drooping. The infill isn’t visible through the print wall. The bridging all completed without issue and taller objects have little to no Z banding even at higher print speeds, which is seemingly a standard to most FDM printers.

    I placed my Anet A6 printed bench and my CR-10 printed bench side by side and I had to be careful to not mix them up they were so similar.

    With one upgrade and after adjusting only a few of my slicer settings I was able to dial in the printer to run on par with my heavily modded Anet A6.

    3D printers gun replica
    3D printed UNSC Magnum Halo 4 gun replica

    Safety

    I believe a well-built machine can run safely for extended periods of time. I pushed this printer running back to back long prints with total times ranging from 18 hours to over 45 hours. I have left the printer idle for several days and returned it to running long and intricate prints and it is still printing without issue.

    Rose Quarts sword
    3D printing of the Rose Quartz sword took around 45 hours on CR-10.

    Rose Quartz sword

    The electric box for this printer is well designed and the cable connections make assembly easy. The cabling is all covered in protective sleeving and its bundled in a way that makes routing the cables easy. One thing which adds an extra layer of safety is an external mosfet for the heatbed.

    The mosfet is one of the most common upgrade recommendations for most Chinese kit printers. It costs around 7-10$, but it’s even better when it’s included with the printer, so you won’t have any extra investments.

    CR-10 3D Printer Pros and Cons

    PROS

      • Large Build volume
      • Simple to use
      • Easy to build
      • Quiet running
      • Prints out of the box
      • Requires little to no upgrades at all
      • Removable print bed
      • Intuitive control box
      • Flexible power supply
      • Good community

     

    CONS

    • Only has one lead screw, 1 Z-axis motor, instead of having one on the other side of the gantry. The said lead screw is found at the lefthand side.
    • Without an enclosure, the heat bed can reach only 70 degrees. The bed also takes a while to heat up thoroughly.
    • Due to the large heated bed size, it warms a room quite a bit.

    All pros easy to build and simple to use, a large print area, and its quiet running. The printer is quick and easy to set up, and it prints great out of the box. It can also run for extended periods of time without issue.

    Moreover, the fact that the glass print bed is removable allows some users to replace it with a borosilicate glass or mirror which is believed to have its own benefits in producing really smooth first layers. Such glass or mirror can be fixed into the printer’s heated bed with ease.

    If I have to come up with a con, it would be that the printer’s heated bed will warm the room it is in while it is printing. However, I am not a fan of being cold, so that kind of works for me.

    Since receiving the CR-10, I have successfully printed Decapi-cat, Benchy, Clash of Clans: Hog Rider, Dare Devils cowl, multiple Triforce key chains, 14 Ninja headbands from Naruto Shippuden, Crystal Gems and Rose Quartz sword from Steven Universe. I also printed the logo to Final Fantasy VII, Dancing hotdog from Snapchat, several Leaves of Lorien, a Groot flower pot, Guardians of the Galaxy emblems, Starlords blaster, the UNSC Magnum from Halo 4, the idol from Raiders of the Last Ark, and two forearm bracers for a cosplay project.

    Where can you purchase the Creality CR-10?

    This printer is available on Amazon and other online retailers. For an 18% OFF coupon for Creality CR-10, check out this link e27d8dUSE Coupon code: e27d8d

    Final Review of the Creality CR-10 3D Printer

    All in all, this is a great printer design. I’m shocked to say that I have nothing bad to say as 3d printers can be fickle. I have and will recommend this printer for new people in the 3d community that want to jump right into printing.

    I do recommend a few simple upgrades mentioned above that will improve the life of the printer. Some advice I wish I could have heard would be to remember to use the resources around you, ask questions when you have them.

    Most of the 3d printing forums and groups are great resources of data and the people in the community are eager to help beginners learn more about the printer. Sometimes the correct terminology is all that’s standing in the way of a successful search or question. Always search the file section. There are some key sites to remember.

    The community behind CR-10 is massive. There are plenty of user-groups on Facebook where you can get immediate online help from owners of the printer. If you have a question about using the printer or need assistance in troubleshooting or calibrating it, you can visit this group (there are few, but this one has over 13 000 members).

    CR-10 is an amazing printer. I would highly recommend it to beginners who are looking to enter the 3D printing hobby or experienced users who need a stable printer with a large build volume.